I seen on supraforums some guy with a N/A supra automatic with alotta boltons managed to run consistent 14s and I think a few high 13 runs (with timeslips) had a video of putting a carlength on a stock supra 6 spd TT and dynoed at 220 WHP (dyno slip too). So I figure since the supra is a few hundred lbs lighter an automatic supra is equal to a manual SC300 (since it weighs a few hundred lbs more). So therfor wouldn't that mean with the same boltons I could be in the low 14s ? He weighed in at 3050 sc is 500 lbs more, each 100 lbs is .1 off the q/m and they say autos are about a half a second slower, so that should mean the sc3 manual is capable of that maybe even more since you don't lose as much power at the wheels = maybe like 230 at the wheels instead of his 220.

His mods were:

Custom Vented Hood-
HKS Adjustable Cam Gears
HKS 3.2" (115mm tip) CarbonFiber/Titanium Exhuast System-
HKS Ground Earth system - grounding wire system
2.75"inch Aluminium mid pipe- 2.5" bend
Xerd Ceramic Coated -Heat Wrapped Header
Coolant Bypass
Redline Coolant Additive
Show Polished Modified Intake Manfiold with egr pipe removed
Show Polished Throttle Body w/ inlet smoothed and modified cut butterly shaft-
Evap system Removed
Polished Descreened Maf-
Custom Maf Adapter
PHR EGR Aluminium Plates-
PHR Fuel dampener Bypass-
PHR Steel braided fuel line-
12-volt fuel mod for higher fuel pressure
Ngk Copper Plugs-
A/c system Removed
Spal Dual Electric fans-
Unorthodox Lighweight Racing Pulley's- minus crank pulley
Carbonfiber Radiator Plate-
CAI CarbonFiber Konig Intake Pipe w/ modified Apc intake pipe-
RS-akimoto Aluminium 3" Velocity Stack
B&M Perf. Transmission cooler -

 

You probably would be in the low 14 range you mention. But I think with the money all those Bolt on's will cost you, you could get a decent used NA-T kit and be in the 13's!!

 

I don't want anything extra that can go wrong / cause problems, especially since it's very hard to get the car tuned etc. Plus gas mileage will be horrible, and with gas now eh. Plus I wanna be able to run low 14's with no FI something different, and I think the boltons will be a bit cheaper used then a NA-T kit. (Especially since alot of them are free do it yourself mods )

 

I see dude took out his A/C. Are you willing to do that just to run 14's?

Personally, I'd go NA-T.

I'd like to see the outcome though. Keep us updated.

 

You may be right! No better way than to try! Like Tech said, keep us updated!!!!

 

I personally would never take out my power a/c (plus when it's not running it has no loss, really it's just the weight which wouldn't even shave a tenth off the q/m), steering etc. Or any of the lexus luxury ammenities SP? lol But My goal is to be running at least a mid 14 or hopefully lower . I just foundout that stock auto N/A supras are running high 15s to low 16s, so I have a better advantage to that too (15.3). Plus closer gears (because 5 vs 4 gotta be really long), less drivetrain loss and a better launch / 60ft time. Now that I add it all up I think low 14s high 13s seems very possible! And that guy never even got it tuned (even just an SAFC2) and when you add mods, tuning can be very beneficial with mods added especially! Didn't that guy make 205 WHP with his stock SC3 manual with an SAFC, imagine what it could do with some mods added maybe 10-20 WHP

 

have at it buddy, but there is a reason why people dont build the na motor. after the cost you put into it, all your going to have is a mid 14 sec. na car. i understand that it doesnt cost that much, but why spend about $1000 for only 40-50 extra HP at the wheels? to me it just seems like a waste. this is just my opinion, but seeing that you can get a 1JZ for less than $1000 nowadays, i would choose that route. after all, with a stock 1JZ (which would have no problems because its a factory motor) you would be capable of low 14 to high 13 sec. runs. throw in an SAFC, give it a little tune, and your well on your way. one other think with the 1J is that if you keep it out of boost, you would see very simmilar gas milage to the stock NA 2JZ.

those are my thoughts for the day.... i expect a paypal payment of $0.02

 

also too add the idea that the manual is going to be faster isnt always true
most of the time in drag racing people prefer auto
if u have a 3200 rpm stall u can launch beyond what any 5 speed can,

and if the car is turbo even more so... on my ol' grand national u can hold the brake build full 14psi on the line (thats why u see grand nationals pulling wheelies all the time)

but i hate auto's its not as fun to drive..... but just for the sake of talkin about drag racing...

 

Two problems- #1 being sure the motor itself is 1k but install prices are quad times that or more.

#2. 1JZ-GTE won't pass emissions anymore since they have a machine that checks, then has the visual and the 1jz dosen't have an EGR!

 

lucky for me, the swap is free do to doing it myself, and florida law has no emmissions.

 

Filthy bastards....

 

What are you talking about? We live in Alabama, its even worse here!

For the record: a mid-14 second car is NOT impressive.... AT ALL
One can go pick up a new automatic sedan from a number of manufacturers and do that bone stock with better gas mileage and lower emissions.

stock SCs also weigh more than 3500lbs a GOOD bit more

 

Curb Weight - Manual (lb.) 3549 http://autos.msn.com

 

We have emissions here but EGR is not part of the checklist for an OBD I vehicle.

 

OBD2 here