Hi
I changed my 1994 sc brakes. Use 4 pot lexus LS 1995-2000 calipers and rotors.
There is no way that stock 16” wheels will clear that calipers. Must use another wheels or add spacers (at least 15mm). I use 22 mm spacers. They have own pins.
Installation is easy and bolt on.
There go pictures.

 

there is spacer

 

Old disc and new from LS. Bigger is better

 

New rotor, new spacer and new caliper...

 

looking good man

 

remember bleed system afrer that mod.

start from lear right, next rear left, next front right and front left.

1) Ensure master cylinder reservoir is full of brake fluid.
Connect hose to wheel cylinder bleeder screw and insert other end of
hose in a clear container 1/4 full of brake fluid.
2) Slowly pump brake pedal several times. While depressing
brake pedal, loosen bleeder screw until fluid starts to flow out, and
then close bleeder screw. Repeat operation until no bubbles are
present in fluid. Tighten bleeder screw to 74 INCH lbs. (8.3 N.m).

you can bleed trac system to if you want (I do not do that but sure will)
there is instruction wod do that properly:
BLEEDING BRAKE SYSTEM
CAUTION: Brake fluid will damage painted surfaces. If brake fluid is
spilled on painted surface, wipe it off immediately and
clean with alcohol. Use only DOT 3 brake fluid from a
sealed container. DO NOT mix brake fluid with any other
type.
1) ABS bleeding procedure is the same procedure used in
bleeding conventional brake system. On models without TRAC, if master
cylinder is rebuilt or reservoir is empty, bleed master cylinder
first. On models with TRAC, bleed TRAC system first. To bleed TRAC
system, go to step 3).
2) On all models, bleed wheels in sequence after master
cylinder (models without TRAC) or TRAC system (models with TRAC) has
been bled. Start on wheel with longest hydraulic line, and work toward
wheel with shortest hydraulic line.
3) Connect vinyl hose to bleeder plug of accumulator. Loosen
accumulator bleeder plug. Start engine. Operate TRAC pump motor until
all air bubbles have been bled. Tighten bleeder plug to 74 INCH lbs.
(8.3 N.m). With engine running, add brake fluid. Turn engine off.
4) Connect vinyl tube to bleeder plug of TRAC actuator.
Loosen bleeder plug. Start engine. Operate TRAC pump motor until all
air bubbles have been bled. Tighten bleeder plug to 74 INCH lbs. (8.3
N.m). With engine running, add brake fluid. Turn engine off. Clear any
code(s) stored.
enjoy

thanks
Jerry

 

hey Jerry how much were parts?

CEO

 

I live in Poland so prices in US dollars was:
calipers --- used (but in good condition with quite good pads on its) $125 for 2.
rotors --- new, $100 for 2.
spacers --- new, $150 for 4.
I use spacers for rear wheels too, because with only front car looks funny

och, and gold paint spray

 

gold looks sweet! any shots of the whole car?

 

very nice pics. I love the look of the gold calipers excellent job and excellent write up.

 

Jerry:

Tell me how it drives on the spacers. What brand were the spacers? It seems that H&R Trax hub-centric are the best...

Ryan

 

Nice Job, I did the same thing last summer. Theres a big difference between the 4 piston calipers over the stock SC ones.

 

hmm not as good as I was thinking before. I am not sure, but now with that wide spacers I can feel on steering wheel more any imperfections on the road. More is transfer to steering wheel. that is not good. Next, tires rub on front fenders in extremly fast and tight cornering. That spacers can't be thiner because they have pins. I thinking about shaving 5 mm from front wheels in machine shop. That should hepl with rubbing. Spacers was custom made in machine shop. they are good quality steel spacers.
Better than spacers is 17" wheels from supra tt option but now I do not want 17" wheels. If change I will go for 18"-19".
Jerry

 

looks good buuuuut......
did your old calipers explode? how on earth did you get the old rotor to look like that, the caliper to look like that, and the inner fender look like someone was decapitated under there?

in other news, youll love the new brakes

 

you are right
I bought car few weeks ago and there is a lot for restore it. Previous owner for sure do nothing to that car for years except oil change.
I done brakes, cooling (new radiator), all fluids and cam and accessory belt too, window regulator, head lights (change that poor stock-candes-light for normal HIDs bi-xenons retrofit from BMW), stereo system restore and more another things.
I know it will take some time and money but sure restore it all.
When I will do some performance upgrades. First valve body, converter, piggy back and dyno tune up (stock now it is rich as pig at WOT past 5000 RPMs: AFR is about 12 as in turbo cars ) and next perhaps custom twin turbo set up. Car is definitely worth that. So give me some time

Jerry