NA-T oil lines

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Feb 8, 2004 | 05:46 AM
  #1  
HI did a search but didn't find anything usefull,

Just want to know where you guys got your NA-T oil line kits? (feed and return line)
If you pieced it together yourself, what parts didi you have to get??

thanks
Ken
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Feb 8, 2004 | 07:07 AM
  #2  
you can get the lines from SP for 180

i think daveh has them, dont know the price

i think bean made a list of all the fittings needed on cl.
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Feb 9, 2004 | 05:35 AM
  #3  
just for those that search for the info:

If a Garret T4 based without a restrictor run:

32" of -3AN SS braid hose
2 -3AN hose to fitting adapters
2 -10AN hose to fitting adapters
12" of -10AN SS braid hose
1/8" to -3AN adapter - off the union bolt
1/4" to -3AN adapter - onto the turbo oil feed
1/2" to -10AN adapter - off the turbo drain
1/2" to -10AN adapter - to the block

What you'll need to do the job:
1/8" NPT drill bit and tap (remember NPT style, not a domestic 1/8" which is very tiny)
1/2" NPT drill bit and tap
Right-angle Drill to do it all because of the limited room
most T4 turbos on their oil feed port are already threaded for 1/4" NPT fittings

without the setup above, and without a restrictor, you'll be coughing up oil out of your turbo; T4 Garrets do not like a lot of oil volume

Union bolt is the really big-headed bolt next to your oil filter on the driver-side of the car... you'll need to remove it and drill and tap it for 1/8" and put one of the fittings into it; this is your oil send line
its not hard to do; you only have to go down about 1/4" before you penetrate (its a hollow bolt; just make sure you drill and tap after you've removed it from the car); good luck
Reply 1
Feb 9, 2004 | 07:18 AM
  #4  
Quote:
Originally posted by Bean

Union bolt is the really big-headed bolt next to your oil filter on the driver-side of the car... you'll need to remove it and drill and tap it for 1/8" and put one of the fittings into it; this is your oil send line
its not hard to do; you only have to go down about 1/4" before you penetrate (its a hollow bolt; just make sure you drill and tap after you've removed it from the car); good luck
OR you can get an IS300 union bolt, it is already tapped due to a sensor. You can just use that hole for your lines.

Kevin
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Feb 9, 2004 | 09:32 AM
  #5  
Quote:
OR you can get an IS300 union bolt, it is already tapped due to a sensor. You can just use that hole for your lines.
You will have to tap it anyway.

The IS300 Union Bolt is already tapped.....But it is tapped for a Metric Fitting.
Dont waste your moey on the IS300 fitting because you will have to drill and tap anyway


Here's a pic of a brand new IS300 Union bolt freshly drilled and tapped to accept the NPT (National Pipe Thread) fitting.



gadgetSC-t

NA-T oil lines-unionbolt.jpg  

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Feb 9, 2004 | 11:11 AM
  #6  
Thanks for clearing that up, Now i have to call my shop and ask if they spent my money for no reason....

Kevin
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Feb 9, 2004 | 03:56 PM
  #7  
I'd just take the stocker and drill/tap it... because it takes literally 5 minutes total
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Feb 9, 2004 | 05:34 PM
  #8  
not to jack the thread...but where does the return line go? is it like many other cars where we just tap the oil pan? if so where at? thanks guys sorry for a dumb question i just thought of it didnt search
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Feb 9, 2004 | 07:22 PM
  #9  
Here's a pic of both bolts.

NA-T oil lines-unionbolt2.jpg  

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Feb 9, 2004 | 07:24 PM
  #10  
vipsoarer, here is a pic of where to drill the #2 oil pan....in the center of the pic.

NA-T oil lines-oilpan1.jpg  

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Feb 9, 2004 | 07:25 PM
  #11  
Here it is with the line connected

NA-T oil lines-oilpan2.jpg  

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Feb 9, 2004 | 09:12 PM
  #12  
awsome thanks...ill have to remember that for later on
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Feb 10, 2004 | 09:23 AM
  #13  
Great Pics!
thanks for the info guys
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Aug 27, 2009 | 10:24 PM
  #14  
I know this thread is really old but just so that the info is out there, I used the IS300 union bolt that is pretapped, and although the thread is slightly off it fits in there pretty well and with plenty of turns before it locks. this is the only line that didnt eventually leak on me, 100% bone dry so I would say if drilling and tapping is your weakest link then you can get away with the stock thread.
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Jun 4, 2014 | 08:13 PM
  #15  
Just off topic a little does anyone know if a 10x3/4 NPT drill and tap will fit to drill out the pan? or is it to large?

I ordered all my lines and fittings and they should be here Friday but I fought back and forth with the guy at the shop and he swore that the 3/4 bung would be better and it surely would fit the center hole on the SC300 oil pan...

I was adamant about ordering the 10x1/2 NPT with a 45 deg. .. any ideas cause I cant shake the feeling I will be returning it lol
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