Distributor delete understanding
So I have a GE non VVTi and changed the oil pump to a GE pump giving me the crank signal. I run an AEM v2 and already have the crank wired and AEM reading it (so my distributor is missing one of the wires as it now goes down to the crank sensor).
Having this setup.... Am I already done? Just need to grab coils, an ignitor and wire it up... Or do I also still need a cam signal.... Like the PHR FSM FU Dizzy kit for the cam?
These signals are identical to the ones a GTE engine produces which has a 12 tooth crank signal on the crank (2 crank revolutions per 1 cam revolution = 24 tooth crank wheel in the cam) and the 2 cam sensors mounted on the head.
If you add a crank sensor on the crank to a GE, you can reuse the crank sensor wire from the distributor like you did (signal "ne"), just note the ground wire is shared by all 3 sensors on that harness.
So you need to have that one ground wire go to both the cam sensor ground and the crank sensor ground.
You can even leave the stock distributor base and use it as a crank and cam sensor with a shorter cap. you can also just use it as a cam trigger and run the crank sensor off the crank.
If you want to get rid of it completely you will need a cam sensor trigger. If you want to run sequential with one cam trigger then you should run a vvti crank wheel 32-1 which has a missing tooth so the ecu can see where a TDC is. with a 12 tooth wheel and one cam trigger you will be stuck doing wasted spark.
So in the 2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod setup does the distributor feed pins 5,6, and 7 in the GTE ECU? As far as I know, it only feeds pin 7. So how is the GTE ECU able to work? I know it does, because I am driving around with this setup.
Thanks,
Bruce
These signals are identical to the ones a GTE engine produces which has a 12 tooth crank signal on the crank (2 crank revolutions per 1 cam revolution = 24 tooth crank wheel in the cam) and the 2 cam sensors mounted on the head.
If you add a crank sensor on the crank to a GE, you can reuse the crank sensor wire from the distributor like you did (signal "ne"), just note the ground wire is shared by all 3 sensors on that harness.
So you need to have that one ground wire go to both the cam sensor ground and the crank sensor ground.
You can even leave the stock distributor base and use it as a crank and cam sensor with a shorter cap. you can also just use it as a cam trigger and run the crank sensor off the crank.
If you want to get rid of it completely you will need a cam sensor trigger. If you want to run sequential with one cam trigger then you should run a vvti crank wheel 32-1 which has a missing tooth so the ecu can see where a TDC is. with a 12 tooth wheel and one cam trigger you will be stuck doing wasted spark.
On a 2JZGE there is just one ground wire that comes from the distributor and goes to the ecu pin 7.
On a 2jzgte there are 3 separate wire that goes to pins 5 6 and 7, but they are still internally connected to the same ground in the ecu.
On a 2JZGE there is just one ground wire that comes from the distributor and goes to the ecu pin 7.
On a 2jzgte there are 3 separate wire that goes to pins 5 6 and 7, but they are still internally connected to the same ground in the ecu.











