Hey everyone, i just purchased this non-running 2000 SC300 with a w58 swap already started but not totally completed. The previous owner started the swap and was never able to figure out the wiring. So far I have wired the park/neutral switch to make the car believe it is in park (Connected pins 4+7 and now park is lit up on the dashboard) and disconnected the shift lockout to allow me to pull the key out of the ignition. This has made no change and the car still does not crank on key.
It has had the immobilzer deleted by quantum auto (Not installed by me but i have verified it was done correctly to the best of my ability). The security light does not come on with key in or out so I believe that is correct.
I am getting codes P0753, P0758, P1755, P1760, and P1765 from the ECU but from what I have read online that seems normal for a manual swap car to have, but it should still crank with those codes
I have also checked starter relay to ensure it was good and bypassed it with a wire and was able to get it to turn over but still not start.
The car also came with the quantum auto Automatic Transmission Emulator I have not installed yet as I wanted to just get the car started and running before i deal with trying to remove check engine lights.
Any ideas on what I should try next? I am open to any ideas that would make the car not start on key because I do not know much of the history of this car.
I just finished my own manual swap on a 2000 SC300 a few months ago . I never wired pins 4 and 7 to make the car think it was in park. I believe I instead wired pins 4 and 8 to make the car think it is in some state of being neutral. When you wire pins 4 and 8, nothing lights up on the gauge cluster. My suspicion is that wiring pins 4 and 7 tells the gauge cluster that you are in park, but no the ecu. Just my hunch. If you can provide some pictures of the plugs I can help a bit more. I can also help with reverse lights if you haven't done that yet.
I tried connecting all the different wires on the park/neutral switch and tried starting from the key in every option, still no crank on key.
I directly powered the starter relay and now the car is not getting fuel or spark, there has to be something the ECU wants to see but is not seeing to allow it to start. I am getting codes from the ECU so it is doing some sort of communicating. Codes P0753, P0758, P1755, P1760, and P1765 but that appears to all be normal codes for a manual swapped car from what i have read on the forums here. Any ideas on what i should look for next?
Honestly I'm not sure. I'm not really that knowledgeable on what the ecu needs, but all it took was the jump of pins 4 and 8 for me to get it to start. Sorry.
I tried connecting all the different wires on the park/neutral switch and tried starting from the key in every option, still no crank on key.
I directly powered the starter relay and now the car is not getting fuel or spark, there has to be something the ECU wants to see but is not seeing to allow it to start. I am getting codes from the ECU so it is doing some sort of communicating. Codes P0753, P0758, P1755, P1760, and P1765 but that appears to all be normal codes for a manual swapped car from what i have read on the forums here. Any ideas on what i should look for next?
It sounds like you're not getting a ground from the brake pedal to the starter. You may have missed something somewhere without that it probably wont let you turn it on. This is my assumption as I've done this in a different type of car.
If you have 4-7 jumped (P) or 4-10 jumped (N) then you must have continuity between 5-6 (the larger terminals). You can also check the continuity of pin 6 to ignition and pin5 to starter relay.
Not sure about the immo delete
Did you ever get this figured out? Please let me know!
Kind of, ECU was not immobilized correctly. I don't know if it’s something quantum auto did incorrectly or the previous owner perhaps just stuck a quantum auto sticker on it and told me it was immobilized when it was in fact not. I replaced ECU with an ebay one that came with a paired key to it. The key that came with the ebay ECU is taped to the immobilizer reader ring and stashed underneath the radio, making the immobilizer effectively removed without me having to send the ECU out and have it done.
Let me know if you have any questions, I spent a lot more time trying to figure this out than I should have.