When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Transfer Case:Castrol Hypoy C Gear Oil 80W90
Capacity: 0.9L/1qt
24mm socket
24mm crowfoot socket
For the front Transfer case, both drain and fill plug are 24mm, you may need a shallow or crowfoot socket for opening the drain plug as its limited space.it will make job far way easy at least.
Sloped driveway with a ramp, you will have more space for your diy job.Cool down your car or the exhaust pipe may extremely hot!!!
Overview of Transfer case's both plugs
Crowfoot socket
24mm Fill plug first w/normal socket
24mm Drain plug second w/crowfoot socket
One more
Draining out all old oil, it looks not bad actually.
Cleaning both plugs, the drain one has a magnetic core(black), Tighten the drain one first.
Using suction gun pump Gear Oil GL-5 80W90 through the fill hole
Untill the new oil starts dripping from the fill hole, close the fill plug and tighten the fill plug and cleaning with a rag
The car has developed a noticeable jerk or surge around 55~60kph(35~40mph) depend on the acceleration pedal how hard pressed from many years, not happen all the time, especially a light gas pedal you can feel it at 80% chance, the RPM will drop quick and a jerk/surge will happen.
Reset computer not working, change transmission fluid (T-IV) several time not working,check vacuum tube/line no leaking,new Denso iridium plugs at 190K km not working!
As it is not a big deal but a bit annoying feel when driving, the only left thing I think I can do is change the transmission filter and check seals inside. or maybe a software update from Lexus if available. that is my next plan if I get time.
Before I tell the benefit, there is one thing I think it may not normal, when transfer case fill plug open, there is no old oil comes out, I check around there is no exterior leaking sign, but the rear diff fill plug open, the old oil coming out quickly, maybe the truck level cause that or maybe not.
Well, the good news is that jerk/surge has gone or at least not noticeable after this job done! I have test drive for two days and try every time when the speed around 55~60kph with light/hard gas pedal, Jerk doesn't happen again at least within this two day, so I assume changing both oil solved my issue or may help quite bit at least.
I think this is the biggest benefit I have after this diy job.
very nice write up....by the way for you 400h owners that magnetic drain plug is a plus on our CVT tranny. Collects residue very well. It fits the CVT tranny on the 400h RX also.
A very nice write up and even better, pictures of plugs to unscrew. 2005 RX330 at 135K KMs, I need to change these oil plus tranny fluid. Will do these changes after I have my Rhino Ramps arrived at my door.
How do you know if your transfer case goes bad. Or the chain inside it stopped working? Am I looking closer to the passenger wheel of center? Was accelerating 35mph and car stopped acceerating. Boom, bad grinding noise. Thought it was my transmission ripping apart but when I get under if, only leak I see is on passenger side of center. Shop said it was transmission but it just didn't feel like it. Any insight?
How do you know if your transfer case goes bad. Or the chain inside it stopped working? Am I looking closer to the passenger wheel of center? Was accelerating 35mph and car stopped acceerating. Boom, bad grinding noise. Thought it was my transmission ripping apart but when I get under if, only leak I see is on passenger side of center. Shop said it was transmission but it just didn't feel like it. Any insight?
Not sure your issue, but here is the pic where is its location underneath.
White: Passenger side Oil Pan
Blue: Center Transfer Case
Yellow: Driver side Transmission Pan
Not sure your issue, but here is the pic where is its location underneath.
White: Passenger side Oil Pan
Blue: Center Transfer Case
Yellow: Driver side Transmission Pan
Thanks for the insight. My issue is. .... I'd had NO problems with my transmission. It was raining.... I started the car. Engine was cold. Drove apx 1 mile. I stopped at a stop sign accelerated into a left turn. Engine made it into first, I believe shifting into second or third threw a horrible crunching grinding noise. I pulled to the side of the road and then nothing. Engine is still fine as it turns on and is okay in park and neutral. In drive and reverse will do nothing but grind and shake the car violently. Took it to the shop and they say transmission and differential since it is an all wheel drive.
My impasse is that the only fluid showing is on the passenger side underneath and I had absolutely no hints of a transmission failure. Reverse was fine, shifted through all gears with no trouble. .... it's hard for me to believe that I need a new transmission.
As far as I know, only cars with manual transmissions have gear box. I was thinking maybe it was my transfer case because the way it was grinding. I had my transmission fluids changed maybe 10,000 miles ago. It was dirty but didn't have debris in it.
I haven't run across anyone yet on the forums who had had this same problem.
Please help.
And by the way that was a great picture!
I wouldn't drive it until it's been on a lift and the source of noise is tracked down
or may first check the transfer case oil as the front differential use the same fluid as transmission does.
Metal grinding noise could be: Inner CV joint, dry transfer case, transfer case bearing, front differential or may just brake system or wheel bearing.
Just my guess.
Yeah it definitely needs to have a second opinion. There is no driving to it. ... it won't move when put in grear, just grinds, shakes, and acts otherwise unpleasant.
Thanks for the guesses. Only thing close that kinda sounded like my problem is race cars off the starting line. I knew she was fast but not that fast. :-D
Hello! I just bought the Castrol LS oil, and looking forward to this.
However, has anyone noticed how badly rusted the entire underbody for the RX gets? I recently looked at my RX underbody, while doing an oil/trans fluid change, and was alarmed at the corrosion level there.
I have an 01 Mercedes ML320, and that underbody is still in very good shape.
Last edited by Isentropic; Aug 28, 2015 at 05:45 AM.
I just drained-and-refilled the transmission fluid (didn't disconnect cooler lines) on my 08 RX350. Instead of using type WS fluid (new spec for 07+ RX I think), I used around 3.7 qts of Valvoline Maxlife (meets Toyota type IV spec).
Is that ok?
Although there's no noticeable drop in fuel economy, I did notice a slightly rougher shifting. Is this normal, as the trans is adjusting to the new fluid?
Should I just drain it all out again, and refill w/ WS?
My mechanic whom worked for Toyota for 10 years before open his own shop, told me that the WS and Type IV are not compatible. I had some type IV from my old SC400 days and he would not use it. Told me to buy the WS for my wife's 08 RX350 and my 08 Avalon.
Valvoline Maxlife are Dexron type, which I use for as power steering fluid on both RX and Avalon.
If I were you, I will do a complete flush out of the Maxlife and refill it with WS, which you cost you at least $9.50 per quart at ebay.
2006 RX330 Transfer Case & Rear Differential Oil Change
