Master Cylinder Replacement
Thread Starter
Driver
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 188
Likes: 5
From: usa
Master Cylinder Replacement
Hello Everyone,
Anyone has any good tips on replacing Master Cylinder? Anything I should watch out, Any aftermarket brand is good for master cylinder? Pedal does not hold for long, so it got to be master cylinder as there is no leaks or loss of fluid. Thanks in advance.
Anyone has any good tips on replacing Master Cylinder? Anything I should watch out, Any aftermarket brand is good for master cylinder? Pedal does not hold for long, so it got to be master cylinder as there is no leaks or loss of fluid. Thanks in advance.
Last edited by lexina; Jun 17, 2014 at 11:44 PM.
Pole Position
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 310
Likes: 0
From: NJ
Sorry, I don't have any specific tips for the RX but most master cylinders need to be bench bled before mounting. Make sure you follow the process exactly otherwise you'll be chasing your tail trying to figure out why the pedal is not holding pressure. Good luck.
Thread Starter
Driver
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 188
Likes: 5
From: usa
Yes, I am aware of bleeding the Master Cylinder before installing it by deeping the two tubes back in the reservoir until no visual bubbles. Thanks though.
It doesn't look too hard to rebuild it, but the repair kit is expensive, so it is not worth it. If anyone know where to get the repair kit, let me know. I know not to use the Centric brand.
It doesn't look too hard to rebuild it, but the repair kit is expensive, so it is not worth it. If anyone know where to get the repair kit, let me know. I know not to use the Centric brand.
CL Community Team
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 16,503
Likes: 1,369
From: Austin, TX
I too would recommend OEM, but price differential may make after-market more viable.
There is a chance that you may have to replace the power module too. Once you separate the master cylinder, you may find leaked fluid at the opening and then you have to replace the power assist.
I would also consider looking for the repair kit ... you disassemble the master cylinder and re-build it. Please check with Lexus parts and update us.
If you buy an aftermarket or serviced unit, make sure they give you the priming kit (short pipes and nipples). The priming kit makes life easy, but you can bleed/prime the master cylinder by loosing lot of fluid too.
If you go the service kit way and need more help, please post here. The kit for sure should be OEM, even if you have to pay extra.
Salim
There is a chance that you may have to replace the power module too. Once you separate the master cylinder, you may find leaked fluid at the opening and then you have to replace the power assist.
I would also consider looking for the repair kit ... you disassemble the master cylinder and re-build it. Please check with Lexus parts and update us.
If you buy an aftermarket or serviced unit, make sure they give you the priming kit (short pipes and nipples). The priming kit makes life easy, but you can bleed/prime the master cylinder by loosing lot of fluid too.
If you go the service kit way and need more help, please post here. The kit for sure should be OEM, even if you have to pay extra.
Salim
CL Community Team
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 16,503
Likes: 1,369
From: Austin, TX
I too would recommend OEM, but price differential may make after-market more viable.
There is a chance that you may have to replace the power module too. Once you separate the master cylinder, you may find leaked fluid at the opening and then you have to replace the power assist.
I would also consider looking for the repair kit ... you disassemble the master cylinder and re-build it. Please check with Lexus parts and update us.
If you buy an aftermarket or serviced unit, make sure they give you the priming kit (short pipes and nipples). The priming kit makes life easy, but you can bleed/prime the master cylinder by loosing lot of fluid too.
If you go the service kit way and need more help, please post here. The kit for sure should be OEM, even if you have to pay extra.
Salim
There is a chance that you may have to replace the power module too. Once you separate the master cylinder, you may find leaked fluid at the opening and then you have to replace the power assist.
I would also consider looking for the repair kit ... you disassemble the master cylinder and re-build it. Please check with Lexus parts and update us.
If you buy an aftermarket or serviced unit, make sure they give you the priming kit (short pipes and nipples). The priming kit makes life easy, but you can bleed/prime the master cylinder by loosing lot of fluid too.
If you go the service kit way and need more help, please post here. The kit for sure should be OEM, even if you have to pay extra.
Salim
Last edited by salimshah; Jun 18, 2014 at 10:54 AM.
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Thread Starter
Driver
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 188
Likes: 5
From: usa
Replaced
Ok, Master Cylinder was replaced without any problem. No other item was found defective besides the master cylinder. Fluid was not leaking out of the MC yet. It was easy to do, except the mess of the fluid and bleeding the mc still attached in the car. I opted with a rebuilt unit (on aisin) as new or rebuilt is very much the same to me. all it is about the new seals. Below are the summary of the steps; sorry, I couldn't take any pics as my hands are all messy with fluid.
1. Unclip 3 connectors: 1 on reservoir, and 2 behind the airbox.
2. Remove top and bottom airbox. Note, behind the bottom airbox has two clips that hold the ground wire and another small hose; just detach hose and wire.
3. Cover underneath MS and wherever you believe will catch the spills.
4. Prepare two plugs to plug up the hoses after you remove them from the reservoir. I used the nerf darts covered with the food wrapping plastic.
5. Remove reservoir cap and filter, use turkey baster to withdraw and empty the fluid out of the reservoir.
6. User long nose plyers to move the two hoses clips away from the reservoir. Then slide the two hoses to Almost out, so you wont' struggle with the other. This will help to keep things clean. remove each hose and plug it up to avoid spill.
7. Remove two bolts on the reservoir bracket, and swing it out the way. I left the third hose on the left intact.
8. Loose up the two nuts on the MC, then unscrew the two metal lines out of the MC. some fluid will come out. then remove the MC nuts and slide the MC out.
8. Transfer the white plastic with the two hoses to the new MC.
9. Connect the hanging reservoir to the new MC, and I did the mc bleeding at the airbox open spot. The included bleeding hoses were too short, so i deeped them in a cup. Fill up the reservoir, let it bleed itself first; don't pump it yet. you will see fluid running out of the bleeding hoses. Once fluid stops flowing, then start pumping the mc to bleed until no visual bubbles. Note, don't fill too much fluid in the reservoir when bleeding; as I had to unplug the hoses again, plug them, and loop them over the strut bar to reinstall.
10. Remove bleeding hoses, remove reservoir hoses and plug them up.
11. Loop the two hoses over the strut bar, then slide the new MC back into its position, temporarily put the two nuts back; giving it slacks so that you can reinstall the two metal lines - be careful not to overcross the screw thread.
12. Once two metal lines are properly installed, tight down the two mc nuts, unplug each hose and plug it back to the reservoir.
13. Re-mount the reservoir bracket, connect the reservoir connector, and fill up the fluid.
14. Re-install bottom airbox - make sure to attach the one hose and one ground wire first to the back of the airbox.
15. Re-install the top airbox, and plug two connectors back.
16. Time for wheel bleeding in this order: RR,RL,FR,FL. The first wheel bleeding was the hardest as all the air will go through there. The rest of the wheels are easy.
That is about it. Took me about 2.5hrs. It was easy to do. For a mech to do it, I think it can be done in 30min. I keep things clean and doing things careful, so it takes more time.
1. Unclip 3 connectors: 1 on reservoir, and 2 behind the airbox.
2. Remove top and bottom airbox. Note, behind the bottom airbox has two clips that hold the ground wire and another small hose; just detach hose and wire.
3. Cover underneath MS and wherever you believe will catch the spills.
4. Prepare two plugs to plug up the hoses after you remove them from the reservoir. I used the nerf darts covered with the food wrapping plastic.
5. Remove reservoir cap and filter, use turkey baster to withdraw and empty the fluid out of the reservoir.
6. User long nose plyers to move the two hoses clips away from the reservoir. Then slide the two hoses to Almost out, so you wont' struggle with the other. This will help to keep things clean. remove each hose and plug it up to avoid spill.
7. Remove two bolts on the reservoir bracket, and swing it out the way. I left the third hose on the left intact.
8. Loose up the two nuts on the MC, then unscrew the two metal lines out of the MC. some fluid will come out. then remove the MC nuts and slide the MC out.
8. Transfer the white plastic with the two hoses to the new MC.
9. Connect the hanging reservoir to the new MC, and I did the mc bleeding at the airbox open spot. The included bleeding hoses were too short, so i deeped them in a cup. Fill up the reservoir, let it bleed itself first; don't pump it yet. you will see fluid running out of the bleeding hoses. Once fluid stops flowing, then start pumping the mc to bleed until no visual bubbles. Note, don't fill too much fluid in the reservoir when bleeding; as I had to unplug the hoses again, plug them, and loop them over the strut bar to reinstall.
10. Remove bleeding hoses, remove reservoir hoses and plug them up.
11. Loop the two hoses over the strut bar, then slide the new MC back into its position, temporarily put the two nuts back; giving it slacks so that you can reinstall the two metal lines - be careful not to overcross the screw thread.
12. Once two metal lines are properly installed, tight down the two mc nuts, unplug each hose and plug it back to the reservoir.
13. Re-mount the reservoir bracket, connect the reservoir connector, and fill up the fluid.
14. Re-install bottom airbox - make sure to attach the one hose and one ground wire first to the back of the airbox.
15. Re-install the top airbox, and plug two connectors back.
16. Time for wheel bleeding in this order: RR,RL,FR,FL. The first wheel bleeding was the hardest as all the air will go through there. The rest of the wheels are easy.
That is about it. Took me about 2.5hrs. It was easy to do. For a mech to do it, I think it can be done in 30min. I keep things clean and doing things careful, so it takes more time.
Last edited by lexina; Jun 24, 2014 at 09:37 AM.
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 954
Likes: 4
From: NY
Ok, Master Cylinder was replaced without any problem. No other item was found defective besides the master cylinder. Fluid was not leaking out of the MC yet. It was easy to do, except the mess of the fluid and bleeding the mc still attached in the car. I opted with a rebuilt unit (on aisin) as new or rebuilt is very much the same to me. all it is about the new seals. Below are the summary of the steps; sorry, I couldn't take any pics as my hands are all messy with fluid.
1. Unclip 3 connectors: 1 on reservoir, and 2 behind the airbox.
2. Remove top and bottom airbox. Note, behind the bottom airbox has two clips that hold the ground wire and another small hose; just detach hose and wire.
3. Cover underneath MS and wherever you believe will catch the spills.
4. Prepare two plugs to plug up the hoses after you remove them from the reservoir. I used the nerf darts covered with the food wrapping plastic.
5. Remove reservoir cap and filter, use turkey baster to withdraw and empty the fluid out of the reservoir.
6. User long nose plyers to move the two hoses clips away from the reservoir. Then slide the two hoses to Almost out, so you wont' struggle with the other. This will help to keep things clean. remove each hose and plug it up to avoid spill.
7. Remove two bolts on the reservoir bracket, and swing it out the way. I left the third hose on the left intact.
8. Loose up the two nuts on the MC, then unscrew the two metal lines out of the MC. some fluid will come out. then remove the MC nuts and slide the MC out.
8. Transfer the white plastic with the two hoses to the new MC.
9. Connect the hanging reservoir to the new MC, and I did the mc bleeding at the airbox open spot. The included bleeding hoses were too short, so i deeped them in a cup. Fill up the reservoir, let it bleed itself first; don't pump it yet. you will see fluid running out of the bleeding hoses. Once fluid stops flowing, then start pumping the mc to bleed until no visual bubbles. Note, don't fill too much fluid in the reservoir when bleeding; as I had to unplug the hoses again, plug them, and loop them over the strut bar to reinstall.
10. Remove bleeding hoses, remove reservoir hoses and plug them up.
11. Loop the two hoses over the strut bar, then slide the new MC back into its position, temporarily put the two nuts back; giving it slacks so that you can reinstall the two metal lines - be careful not to overcross the screw thread.
12. Once two metal lines are properly installed, tight down the two mc nuts, unplug each hose and plug it back to the reservoir.
13. Re-mount the reservoir bracket, connect the reservoir connector, and fill up the fluid.
14. Re-install bottom airbox - make sure to attach the one hose and one ground wire first to the back of the airbox.
15. Re-install the top airbox, and plug two connectors back.
16. Time for wheel bleeding in this order: RR,RL,FR,FL. The first wheel bleeding was the hardest as all the air will go through there. The rest of the wheels are easy.
That is about it. Took me about 2.5hrs. It was easy to do. For a mech to do it, I think it can be done in 30min. I keep things clean and doing things careful, so it takes more time.
1. Unclip 3 connectors: 1 on reservoir, and 2 behind the airbox.
2. Remove top and bottom airbox. Note, behind the bottom airbox has two clips that hold the ground wire and another small hose; just detach hose and wire.
3. Cover underneath MS and wherever you believe will catch the spills.
4. Prepare two plugs to plug up the hoses after you remove them from the reservoir. I used the nerf darts covered with the food wrapping plastic.
5. Remove reservoir cap and filter, use turkey baster to withdraw and empty the fluid out of the reservoir.
6. User long nose plyers to move the two hoses clips away from the reservoir. Then slide the two hoses to Almost out, so you wont' struggle with the other. This will help to keep things clean. remove each hose and plug it up to avoid spill.
7. Remove two bolts on the reservoir bracket, and swing it out the way. I left the third hose on the left intact.
8. Loose up the two nuts on the MC, then unscrew the two metal lines out of the MC. some fluid will come out. then remove the MC nuts and slide the MC out.
8. Transfer the white plastic with the two hoses to the new MC.
9. Connect the hanging reservoir to the new MC, and I did the mc bleeding at the airbox open spot. The included bleeding hoses were too short, so i deeped them in a cup. Fill up the reservoir, let it bleed itself first; don't pump it yet. you will see fluid running out of the bleeding hoses. Once fluid stops flowing, then start pumping the mc to bleed until no visual bubbles. Note, don't fill too much fluid in the reservoir when bleeding; as I had to unplug the hoses again, plug them, and loop them over the strut bar to reinstall.
10. Remove bleeding hoses, remove reservoir hoses and plug them up.
11. Loop the two hoses over the strut bar, then slide the new MC back into its position, temporarily put the two nuts back; giving it slacks so that you can reinstall the two metal lines - be careful not to overcross the screw thread.
12. Once two metal lines are properly installed, tight down the two mc nuts, unplug each hose and plug it back to the reservoir.
13. Re-mount the reservoir bracket, connect the reservoir connector, and fill up the fluid.
14. Re-install bottom airbox - make sure to attach the one hose and one ground wire first to the back of the airbox.
15. Re-install the top airbox, and plug two connectors back.
16. Time for wheel bleeding in this order: RR,RL,FR,FL. The first wheel bleeding was the hardest as all the air will go through there. The rest of the wheels are easy.
That is about it. Took me about 2.5hrs. It was easy to do. For a mech to do it, I think it can be done in 30min. I keep things clean and doing things careful, so it takes more time.
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