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iTrader: (3)

1. jack up the car, i like to use the two spots you can see here with 3 ton jacks

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2. take off the tire, from this angle you can see 3 of the 4 bolts you will need to remove for the caliper to be removed, two are 14mm and two are 17mm

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3. here you can see where i am removing the top 14mm bolt holding the caliper on, after removing the caliper i just tucked it in behind to get it out of my way and keep the weight from pulling on the tube

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4. here im removing the 17mm bolts holding the brake pad housing on, these were hard to get off so i used a wrench and beat on it with a hammer, i didnt use the wratchet for the hammering just because i didnt want to mess up the wratchet, then once they were broken loose i used the wratchet to pull them rest of the way out

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5. remove the brake pad housing, once you remove these bolts for both the caliper and the brake pad housing they pretty much just fall off

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6. at this point the rotor basically just fell off for me, you may have more trouble getting the rotor to come off than i did if it has rusted, while you could use a hammer and beat on it until it comes off you could use 8mm x 1.25 pitch in the holes in the center of the rotor that will push it off so you dont have to beat on it

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7. once you have the new rotor in place, put the brake pad housing back on and start screwing the 17mm bolts in by hand, dont bother putting the brake pads on until you have it fully secured otherwise it turns out to be just a pain

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8. put the brake pads in place

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9. you will have to compress the caliper one way or another, i chose to do this with a c-clamp, this is probably not the best idea to do but my brake fluid was pretty new so i wasnt worried too much about it

heres a link to a discussion about why you should bleed your brakes during this process

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...estions-2.html

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10. place the caliper back on and put the 14mm bolts back in and tighten

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11. put your tire back on and start tightening your lug nuts

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12. i tighten them by tightening one, then skip one, tighten one and skip one, once ive gotten them as tight as i can with the car still in the air, let the car down and tighten further, i like to use a torque wrench to make sure i dont over tighten them and warp the rotors, so DONT USE A GUN!! Jiffy lube did when i got a tire rotation and thats how i got in this mess in the first place

13. make sure you pump the brakes before taking off after this process to make sure you have working brakes

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this was my first DIY so forgive me if i omitted some things

carguy07

Just a couple suggestions, one is to use the old brake pad between the c-clamp and the piston or put the clamp inside the opening of the piston. If it is not square when you drive it in you risk jamming it up or scuffing the walls. The other thing that I found when I did mine was to clean up the pad support plates (the shims that the pads sit in) with bake cleaner and polish them up. It keeps the pads floating free. Also lube them and the backs of the shims.

What pads are those?

Thanks for the write up, looks like you saved yourself a ton of $.

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i didnt even think of doing the lube to keep the pads floating free, good idea, i may take it back off next time i do some major maintenance, the pads are just duralast golds, i figured eh why not, ive used em before and they seemed decent, if i have any issues with them ill get some better ones

i bet compressing it the way you stated is a lot safer, thanks for the addition