Would like to see if your results on silica lower based on engine aging or if it gets better with Fram Endurance. My Walmart sells both that and the N1 OEM filter. I picked the Toyota filter for my first change on my new-to-me 350 @ 17.5k, before I found out about their low filtration efficiency and their batch of bad filters from a couple years ago. Didn't think I'd ever be advocating for fram over OEM filters in my lifetime, but I also noticed Toyota is cutting corners on air and especially cabin filters that have way less pleats...

 

Filtration efficiency design depends on the expected life of the filter, in the mfr's eyes. Toyota expects them to last 10K miles with a margin of error...


I know that Honda only recommends a filter replacement EVERY OTHER OCI, and because of that, their filter's initial efficiency is less, as they expect them to accumulate debris over the filter's life.

If you run a more often than recommended change interval, look to this Forum to help you find a filter that traps more 'stuff' initially.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/fo...oil-filters.6/

 

I never expected that I would use Fram filters, but that's all that I use for now in all of my vehicles. Either their Endurance or Ultra if the Endurance isn't available.

 

At one time, Fram earned the acronym OCOD (Orange Can Of Death). The company listened, and their filters (at least, the higher-end varieties) are fine these days.

 

I suggested tracking down the source of the extra silica. For a new motor or any motor work, we see UOA usually come back with higher levels that tend to track down as the motor is worn in. If we dont see a downward trend, one has to assume something else is bringing in this material, usually due to a leaking intake system (whether a bad air filer seal etc).

 

I do plan on keeping an eye on it. So far a visual inspection of the intake system resulted in nothing jumping out at me.

 

So, for the hybrid engine on my PHEV, I got curious about oil additives and degradation noted by Youtubers especially due to the Hybrid engine's specific behavior (start/stops etc) leading to lower average oil temperature. The argument is that due to ~80 C in these hybrid engines that Hybrid-specific behavior results in, relative to ~100 C in regular ICE, its better to use a Hyrbid-specific oil (released by various makers) that is formulated to prevent the non-vaporised water at 80 C in the oil from wearing the engine. Amsoil, Valvoline, Mobil 1 -- all of them have this version.

The question is: Is there any merit to that argument for the "Hybrid Synthetic Oil" (not asking for "advise" if I should get it, asking about the technical argument from a chemistry standpoint to those who understand tribology and oil-chemistry in-depth)?

Meanwhile, for my oil change I ended up going agin for Toyota Genuine (from my trusted mechanic, not dealer), as it specifically has as an additive, as different from other brands. The high Moly levels have consistently shown up in Toyota oil, with multiple independent reports of oil analysis compared across brands.

 

Maybe I'm dumb, but think I'm lost in the weeds on this post. Can someone give the Cliffs Notes summary of what to know from this? Change oil more often? Use Toyota oil? Don't use Toyota oil? Change oil LESS often? What did we learn from this oil analysis?

 

I heard that Mobil 1 is who makes Toyota's oil for them.

 

People make this **** too complicated. Change your oil at the recommended interval(I personally do every 5,000 regardless of what manual says about 10,000 mile intervals, but that is my own personal thing) with the correct weight, from a reputable oil brand. Done.

These cars are engineered for the least common denominator within reason. Toyota/Lexus doesn't expect owners to worry about oil analysis or using a special type of oil.

 

Yeah, that's a great answer. Truth!

 

yes, but the chemical formulation (additives) are to Toyota’s spec/version and different from Mobil1 branded version. Whether that matters or not is a different question. The data behind that is also on reddit ans bobistheoilguy.

By the way, I don’t think the OP started this thread with the goal of giving technical advice (worthless if it comes from random strangers on the internet) or cliff-notes. Neither was my post(s) about such. We were trying to have a technically in-depth and data-driven discussion. If anyone finds such a discussion worthless, they simply don't need to comment and ignore the thread entirely.

 

"By the way, I don’t think the OP started this thread with the goal of giving technical advice (worthless if it comes from random strangers on the internet) or cliff-notes. Neither was my post(s) about such. We were trying to have a technically in-depth and data-driven discussion. If anyone finds such a discussion worthless, they simply don't need to comment and ignore the thread entirely."

Exactly! Thank you.

 

But the common way to deal with "technically in-depth and data-drives discussions", on "open to the public" bulletin boards, is to explain the main points of the details that can't be easily understood by non-experts. I'm just asking "what can Lexus drivers learn from this data?"

 

As stated in my first post, I wanted to find out if this engine was a fuel diluter or not. The UOA shows that it is a moderate diluter and the effects of fuel dilution are explained in the "Comments" section of the report. So this is what I learned and I wanted to share this information with fellow Lexus owners.

If you would like to learn more about what all of the information on a UOA means, I recommend spending some time on Bob Is The Oil Guy site. Some of the posting there gets quite contentious and there are more opinions than you can shake a stick at but there is also some good, factual information there as well. One just needs to weed out the noise.