Oil Filter Conversion from cartridge to spin on?
Just go to an O'reiley and cut yourself a foot of thick rubber hose with 5/8' inner diameter for about $2 and attached it to the filter plug drain tool that comes with every oil filter and take your time to let the oil drain. This DIY tool method makes jabbing in the drain tool fast and easy too.
The Motiv tool justs to drain the il from the filter housing. Have to use the drain bolt to remove most of the oil.
The Motiv tool is good. It makes emptying the filter a lot less messy since I can control when it darins and direct the hose. I also like its funnel for fast and easily pour the oil from those 5qt jugs without spilling. At the end, just wipe it off with a cloth and place on a plastic bag until the next oil change.
The Motiv tool is good. It makes emptying the filter a lot less messy since I can control when it darins and direct the hose. I also like its funnel for fast and easily pour the oil from those 5qt jugs without spilling. At the end, just wipe it off with a cloth and place on a plastic bag until the next oil change.
Agreed. I had an Acura that you had to burn your forearm to get to the filter. Then oil dripped all over frame and suspension parts. RX is much easier even with canister.
The RX's filter design really have it's advantages.
so many people on BITOG.com go through the hassle of cutting their canister filter open just to see what's inside. You don't have to worry about the Anti drain back design/material, diameter of the holes, flow rate, potential rust inside canister, etc.
It's only ment to make changing the filter less messy, To drain the oil from the pan you have to unbolt the drain bolt at the oil pan.
I installed the Baxter oil adapter on my RX350- works great and quality piece. I now have antidrain back valve with metal spin on filter for immediate oil upon startup and increased micron filtration vs original style cartridge filter- win/win for engine longevity 😁
Since I don't crawl under cars anymore to do oil changes I had the Toyota dlr where I get the oil changed install the aluminum housing so I won't get stranded by a cracked plastic housing. Wouldn't spend $200+ to save the mechanic time. They would probably charge the same anyway.
Since I don't crawl under cars anymore to do oil changes I had the Toyota dlr where I get the oil changed install the aluminum housing so I won't get stranded by a cracked plastic housing. Wouldn't spend $200+ to save the mechanic time. They would probably charge the same anyway.
Just did my first oil change on my 2019 since my complimentary ones are done. Dealer tightened plastic housing so tight I needed a pipe on my breaker bar to break it loose. The plastic housing did crack when removing due to the tech tightening it with I have no clue what! I previously had a ES 350 which had the aluminum housing which I had planned on switching to anyway. Part number is 15620-31060 and the plug for the bottom of the housing is 15643-31050 works perfectly. No need to tighten to a crazy torque spec.








