Battery Replacement - DIY or Dealer?
My wife and I were in the WV mountains on Columbus Day weekend when my 2020 RX350 got a "Parking Support Unavailable" error when starting the car. I turned off PKSA and we drove to WV's highest point (Spruce ****) late in the afternoon. It's not a place you'd want to be with a dead battery. I wasn't thinking battery, though, although I'd remarked to my wife days earlier that I needed to replace the battery soon. It's 4.5 years old and I've had a dashcam with parking mode installed for 4+ years. I thought the error might be related to my bike rack, even though the rack has been on my car for a couple of years without issue. (I do keep PKSB turned off all the time because it alerts when bikes are on the rack.) Anyway, the error did not recur when leaving Spruce **** after turning on PKSA and I didn't think any more about it.
The next day was colder (~40F), windy and rainy. I load the car to go home, using the power rear door without issue. We go to leave and .... back comes the "Parking Support Unavailable" message, but this time it's accompanied by the unmistakable starter rattle of a dead battery. Not good - it's late Monday afternoon at our condo and not another soul is around. Fortunately, I had a Chineseum jump box in the trunk that I'd fully charged in February and it still showed a full charge. I hooked it to the battery and it started immediately. We drove through AutoZone on the way home and bought their Duralast 24F AGM. After I replaced the battery the "Parking Support Unavailable" error occurred on the first start but has not recurred. The vehicle was without power for at least 5 minutes during the swap and no settings were lost, at least that I have noticed.
Lessons learned: 1) Trust your gut. When you have that "I should replace the battery" thought, do it. 2) Never be without a charged jump box. Even if you never need it, you might be able to help someone else.
The next day was colder (~40F), windy and rainy. I load the car to go home, using the power rear door without issue. We go to leave and .... back comes the "Parking Support Unavailable" message, but this time it's accompanied by the unmistakable starter rattle of a dead battery. Not good - it's late Monday afternoon at our condo and not another soul is around. Fortunately, I had a Chineseum jump box in the trunk that I'd fully charged in February and it still showed a full charge. I hooked it to the battery and it started immediately. We drove through AutoZone on the way home and bought their Duralast 24F AGM. After I replaced the battery the "Parking Support Unavailable" error occurred on the first start but has not recurred. The vehicle was without power for at least 5 minutes during the swap and no settings were lost, at least that I have noticed.
Lessons learned: 1) Trust your gut. When you have that "I should replace the battery" thought, do it. 2) Never be without a charged jump box. Even if you never need it, you might be able to help someone else.
I would say it would be best practice to have your battery tested after the 2 year mark for good measure.
BTW, our vehicle does not require AGM battery type. You are not going to gain any difference in power. But to each their own.
Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 70
Likes: 18
From: PA
My wife and I were in the WV mountains on Columbus Day weekend when my 2020 RX350 got a "Parking Support Unavailable" error when starting the car. I turned off PKSA and we drove to WV's highest point (Spruce ****) late in the afternoon. It's not a place you'd want to be with a dead battery. I wasn't thinking battery, though, although I'd remarked to my wife days earlier that I needed to replace the battery soon. It's 4.5 years old and I've had a dashcam with parking mode installed for 4+ years. I thought the error might be related to my bike rack, even though the rack has been on my car for a couple of years without issue. (I do keep PKSB turned off all the time because it alerts when bikes are on the rack.) Anyway, the error did not recur when leaving Spruce **** after turning on PKSA and I didn't think any more about it.
The next day was colder (~40F), windy and rainy. I load the car to go home, using the power rear door without issue. We go to leave and .... back comes the "Parking Support Unavailable" message, but this time it's accompanied by the unmistakable starter rattle of a dead battery. Not good - it's late Monday afternoon at our condo and not another soul is around. Fortunately, I had a Chineseum jump box in the trunk that I'd fully charged in February and it still showed a full charge. I hooked it to the battery and it started immediately. We drove through AutoZone on the way home and bought their Duralast 24F AGM. After I replaced the battery the "Parking Support Unavailable" error occurred on the first start but has not recurred. The vehicle was without power for at least 5 minutes during the swap and no settings were lost, at least that I have noticed.
Lessons learned: 1) Trust your gut. When you have that "I should replace the battery" thought, do it. 2) Never be without a charged jump box. Even if you never need it, you might be able to help someone else.
The next day was colder (~40F), windy and rainy. I load the car to go home, using the power rear door without issue. We go to leave and .... back comes the "Parking Support Unavailable" message, but this time it's accompanied by the unmistakable starter rattle of a dead battery. Not good - it's late Monday afternoon at our condo and not another soul is around. Fortunately, I had a Chineseum jump box in the trunk that I'd fully charged in February and it still showed a full charge. I hooked it to the battery and it started immediately. We drove through AutoZone on the way home and bought their Duralast 24F AGM. After I replaced the battery the "Parking Support Unavailable" error occurred on the first start but has not recurred. The vehicle was without power for at least 5 minutes during the swap and no settings were lost, at least that I have noticed.
Lessons learned: 1) Trust your gut. When you have that "I should replace the battery" thought, do it. 2) Never be without a charged jump box. Even if you never need it, you might be able to help someone else.
My wife would have yelled at me for not testing before the trip. Lol
By the way, my 2021 Certified RX350 had a health rating of 67% upon the purchase. But after 3months of garage Batteryminder model 2012 maintenance charging, I was able to restore it to 100%.
2) I have a NOCO GB40 1000A battery booster
Last edited by monju0525; Oct 31, 2024 at 02:14 PM.
Advanced
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 747
Likes: 459
From: WV
1) U should have tested the battery using a capacitance meter. It prevents u from purchasing a battery prematurely and wasting money. A tool and gut feeling is the best. Data center ie server farms use it for their UPS battery back- up systems.
My wife would have yelled at me for not testing before the trip. Lol
My wife would have yelled at me for not testing before the trip. Lol
For those asking about my choice to use an AGM, it was primarily for the lifespan, not the additional power. I swapped a 7-year-old AGM out of my wife's Honda Pilot this year even though it was still working fine. The Pilot has engine stop/start and requires an AGM. It's her daily driver and I did not want to risk a dead battery in it. (I keep a jump box in the Pilot, too. Having a jump box and getting her to use it in case of need are different concepts.
) My brother did the same thing with a dual-AGM setup in his diesel truck after 10 years. They were still operating fine, but 10 years felt like pushing luck.
Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 70
Likes: 18
From: PA
My wife and I were in the WV mountains on Columbus Day weekend when my 2020 RX350 got a "Parking Support Unavailable" error when starting the car. I turned off PKSA and we drove to WV's highest point (Spruce ****) late in the afternoon. It's not a place you'd want to be with a dead battery. I wasn't thinking battery, though, although I'd remarked to my wife days earlier that I needed to replace the battery soon. It's 4.5 years old and I've had a dashcam with parking mode installed for 4+ years. I thought the error might be related to my bike rack, even though the rack has been on my car for a couple of years without issue. (I do keep PKSB turned off all the time because it alerts when bikes are on the rack.) Anyway, the error did not recur when leaving Spruce **** after turning on PKSA and I didn't think any more about it.
The next day was colder (~40F), windy and rainy. I load the car to go home, using the power rear door without issue. We go to leave and .... back comes the "Parking Support Unavailable" message, but this time it's accompanied by the unmistakable starter rattle of a dead battery. Not good - it's late Monday afternoon at our condo and not another soul is around. Fortunately, I had a Chineseum jump box in the trunk that I'd fully charged in February and it still showed a full charge. I hooked it to the battery and it started immediately. We drove through AutoZone on the way home and bought their Duralast 24F AGM. After I replaced the battery the "Parking Support Unavailable" error occurred on the first start but has not recurred. The vehicle was without power for at least 5 minutes during the swap and no settings were lost, at least that I have noticed.
Lessons learned: 1) Trust your gut. When you have that "I should replace the battery" thought, do it. 2) Never be without a charged jump box. Even if you never need it, you might be able to help someone else.
The next day was colder (~40F), windy and rainy. I load the car to go home, using the power rear door without issue. We go to leave and .... back comes the "Parking Support Unavailable" message, but this time it's accompanied by the unmistakable starter rattle of a dead battery. Not good - it's late Monday afternoon at our condo and not another soul is around. Fortunately, I had a Chineseum jump box in the trunk that I'd fully charged in February and it still showed a full charge. I hooked it to the battery and it started immediately. We drove through AutoZone on the way home and bought their Duralast 24F AGM. After I replaced the battery the "Parking Support Unavailable" error occurred on the first start but has not recurred. The vehicle was without power for at least 5 minutes during the swap and no settings were lost, at least that I have noticed.
Lessons learned: 1) Trust your gut. When you have that "I should replace the battery" thought, do it. 2) Never be without a charged jump box. Even if you never need it, you might be able to help someone else.
Interesting point. I did test the battery in March using Topdon BT50 tester. As I recall it tested as GOOD with 60+% life. I also tested it after we got home and before swapping in the Duralast. It still showed GOOD and 50+% life. However, the next morning I tested it with the same tester, out of the car, and the status was REPLACE with 15% life. That reminded me that testing a battery soon after running the vehicle may result in erroneously optimistic health reading. The car started fine on the way home after a gas stop and the AutoZone stop, as I suspected it would. Even a worn-out battery will hold some residual charge for a short time.
For those asking about my choice to use an AGM, it was primarily for the lifespan, not the additional power. I swapped a 7-year-old AGM out of my wife's Honda Pilot this year even though it was still working fine. The Pilot has engine stop/start and requires an AGM. It's her daily driver and I did not want to risk a dead battery in it. (I keep a jump box in the Pilot, too. Having a jump box and getting her to use it in case of need are different concepts. ) My brother did the same thing with a dual-AGM setup in his diesel truck after 10 years. They were still operating fine, but 10 years felt like pushing luck.
For those asking about my choice to use an AGM, it was primarily for the lifespan, not the additional power. I swapped a 7-year-old AGM out of my wife's Honda Pilot this year even though it was still working fine. The Pilot has engine stop/start and requires an AGM. It's her daily driver and I did not want to risk a dead battery in it. (I keep a jump box in the Pilot, too. Having a jump box and getting her to use it in case of need are different concepts.
) My brother did the same thing with a dual-AGM setup in his diesel truck after 10 years. They were still operating fine, but 10 years felt like pushing luck.Prior to attaching to the capacitance meter(CM) u need to create a load ie 30 sec headlights on to get a more accurate representation of the battery’s health. Unfortunately, the old school carbon resistor meter does a better job predicting remaining life but will surely kill a borderline battery of remaining life. It needs to be at certain voltage per applied resistance load to pass.
I like my CM but it needs to be used regularly to get a historical picture.
Last edited by monju0525; Nov 2, 2024 at 02:53 PM.
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 979
Likes: 696
From: Ohio
I did the same thing for the same reason, but sooner than you. After experiencing the miserable short life of the OEM Bridgestone tires, and after I had gotten three years of use from the original battery, and heading into winter, I decided to dump it and put in an AGM. That was three years ago, and I don't worry about the battery these days,.
Advanced
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 747
Likes: 459
From: WV
Facts are friendly, as the saying goes. Here are today's options from AutoZone for an RX-spec 24F battery:
DuraLast - FLA, 600CCA, 2-year warranty $195
DuraLast Gold - FLA, 750CCA, 3-year warranty $215
DuraLast Platinum - AGM, 710CCA, 3-year warranty $245
The AGM carries only a 14% price premium over the Gold FLA. If the FLA lasts 4 years and the AGM lasts 5 (25% longer) it will have been a good deal. Reports of 5+ year lifespans for AGMs are common and match my experience. That's a choice I'd make every day for a car I plan to keep. Others would spend $195 for the 2-year battery. Neither choice is right or wrong; to each their own.
Mods: My initial post was to highlight the odd parking sensor symptom of a dying battery, not debate the AGM selection. I know there is a different thread on that topic.
DuraLast - FLA, 600CCA, 2-year warranty $195
DuraLast Gold - FLA, 750CCA, 3-year warranty $215
DuraLast Platinum - AGM, 710CCA, 3-year warranty $245
The AGM carries only a 14% price premium over the Gold FLA. If the FLA lasts 4 years and the AGM lasts 5 (25% longer) it will have been a good deal. Reports of 5+ year lifespans for AGMs are common and match my experience. That's a choice I'd make every day for a car I plan to keep. Others would spend $195 for the 2-year battery. Neither choice is right or wrong; to each their own.
Mods: My initial post was to highlight the odd parking sensor symptom of a dying battery, not debate the AGM selection. I know there is a different thread on that topic.
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Racer
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 1,939
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From: New York
Facts are friendly, as the saying goes. Here are today's options from AutoZone for an RX-spec 24F battery:
DuraLast - FLA, 600CCA, 2-year warranty $195
DuraLast Gold - FLA, 750CCA, 3-year warranty $215
DuraLast Platinum - AGM, 710CCA, 3-year warranty $245
The AGM carries only a 14% price premium over the Gold FLA. If the FLA lasts 4 years and the AGM lasts 5 (25% longer) it will have been a good deal. Reports of 5+ year lifespans for AGMs are common and match my experience. That's a choice I'd make every day for a car I plan to keep. Others would spend $195 for the 2-year battery. Neither choice is right or wrong; to each their own.
Mods: My initial post was to highlight the odd parking sensor symptom of a dying battery, not debate the AGM selection. I know there is a different thread on that topic.
DuraLast - FLA, 600CCA, 2-year warranty $195
DuraLast Gold - FLA, 750CCA, 3-year warranty $215
DuraLast Platinum - AGM, 710CCA, 3-year warranty $245
The AGM carries only a 14% price premium over the Gold FLA. If the FLA lasts 4 years and the AGM lasts 5 (25% longer) it will have been a good deal. Reports of 5+ year lifespans for AGMs are common and match my experience. That's a choice I'd make every day for a car I plan to keep. Others would spend $195 for the 2-year battery. Neither choice is right or wrong; to each their own.
Mods: My initial post was to highlight the odd parking sensor symptom of a dying battery, not debate the AGM selection. I know there is a different thread on that topic.
Here is an interesting read about AGM batteries here.
Can a Standard alternator charge an AGM battery?
What happens when you replace your standard regular battery with an AGM battery in your car? As we know, in a standard or even electric vehicle, the alternator usually chargers the battery. So, will the alternator charge your AGM battery? These are just some of the questions we get to ask ourselves when we decide to upgrade our vehicle battery.
In most cars, the alternator charging system is mostly intended for the standard flooded lead-acid batteries. It will mostly mean the alternator charging system is not well equipped to charge or optimally work with AGM batteries. Using the alternator to charge your AGM battery may pose a serious risk to your battery. It may either undercharge or overcharge your battery. And as we all know, the AGM batteries are sensitive to the charging voltages exposed to them. The risk of either an under or overcharge will destroy the lifespan of the battery and cause it to die faster than expected. Despite this, sometimes, most charge controllers in the newer vehicles may be reprogrammed to work with an AGM battery without causing damage to the battery. It may only work if the charge controller settings within your car are updated accordingly.
Furthermore, before considering using an alternator to charge your AGM battery, you have to ensure you have a reliable regulator that will help set the charging voltages and limits the charging currents. The only problem that may arise from this combination is the no float stage or a low absorption voltage. The low absorption voltage will mean the AGM battery gets to charge slower and never at 100% charge, which will cause the battery’s capacity to fade and lead to a reduced battery lifespan. Most older car versions lack the float charge state. So, in case you install an AGM battery in an older car model, there is a higher risk of the lack of float charge stage, which may cause your battery to overheat on long drives. All these factors make it risky for an alternator to charge an AGM battery.
What happens when you replace your standard regular battery with an AGM battery in your car? As we know, in a standard or even electric vehicle, the alternator usually chargers the battery. So, will the alternator charge your AGM battery? These are just some of the questions we get to ask ourselves when we decide to upgrade our vehicle battery.
In most cars, the alternator charging system is mostly intended for the standard flooded lead-acid batteries. It will mostly mean the alternator charging system is not well equipped to charge or optimally work with AGM batteries. Using the alternator to charge your AGM battery may pose a serious risk to your battery. It may either undercharge or overcharge your battery. And as we all know, the AGM batteries are sensitive to the charging voltages exposed to them. The risk of either an under or overcharge will destroy the lifespan of the battery and cause it to die faster than expected. Despite this, sometimes, most charge controllers in the newer vehicles may be reprogrammed to work with an AGM battery without causing damage to the battery. It may only work if the charge controller settings within your car are updated accordingly.
Furthermore, before considering using an alternator to charge your AGM battery, you have to ensure you have a reliable regulator that will help set the charging voltages and limits the charging currents. The only problem that may arise from this combination is the no float stage or a low absorption voltage. The low absorption voltage will mean the AGM battery gets to charge slower and never at 100% charge, which will cause the battery’s capacity to fade and lead to a reduced battery lifespan. Most older car versions lack the float charge state. So, in case you install an AGM battery in an older car model, there is a higher risk of the lack of float charge stage, which may cause your battery to overheat on long drives. All these factors make it risky for an alternator to charge an AGM battery.
Last edited by GS4_Fiend; Nov 7, 2024 at 04:06 PM.
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 835
Likes: 408
From: PA
You do make a very good point. For an extra $50 and if it really lasts 5 years at minimum, it is definitely worth it.
Here is an interesting read about AGM batteries here.
Here is an interesting read about AGM batteries here.
Also keep in mind - modern vehicle now purposely do not "fully charge" the battery due to aid in improved fuel economy. Some vehicle uses the PCM to regulate the charging voltage and some does not.
Last edited by GS4_Fiend; Nov 9, 2024 at 02:04 PM.
Lexus Fanatic
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 25,917
Likes: 4,274
From: Alberta
AGM batteries are not destroyed by an alternator I don't know who comes up with this stuff. I can walk into any auto parts store and buy an AGM battery for my car, a battery sanctioned by the manufacturer to work in automobiles.
Advanced
Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Mid-West
How is not charging battery to its full capacity improves fuel economy?
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Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 253
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From: Az
“Not charging to its full capacity” is not quite 100% accurate. Alternators have indeed been downsized for fuel economy, since there’s no use to produce excess current that in turn must be converted into heat by the voltage regulator, but they are still totally capable of charging a healthy battery back to full capacity given enough time provided the battery has not been deeply discharged. So: How deeply has the battery been discharged? How much time is the vehicle running for the recharge cycle?
For example, suppose someone has a short drive to and from work every morning with several stop signs and red lights along the way. Winter rolls around; they go to work in the dark and come home in the dark, with the headlights on and the heater cranked full blast. The battery won’t get recharged, since at idle the alternator doesn’t produce much juice and the current draw from the headlights and heater can exceed the alternator output, so the power drawn from cranking the engine will soon deplete the battery. However, take that same battery and vehicle on a daytime drive for a couple of hours and the battery can get recharged fully, provided it hasn’t gotten too discharged. Then the battery must be put on an external charger to get it back up to snuff—but if it stays too far gone for too long, it could sulfate and then it’s time for a new battery. That wasn’t the car’s fault or the battery’s fault, just the usage conditions were not favorable to the battery.
For example, suppose someone has a short drive to and from work every morning with several stop signs and red lights along the way. Winter rolls around; they go to work in the dark and come home in the dark, with the headlights on and the heater cranked full blast. The battery won’t get recharged, since at idle the alternator doesn’t produce much juice and the current draw from the headlights and heater can exceed the alternator output, so the power drawn from cranking the engine will soon deplete the battery. However, take that same battery and vehicle on a daytime drive for a couple of hours and the battery can get recharged fully, provided it hasn’t gotten too discharged. Then the battery must be put on an external charger to get it back up to snuff—but if it stays too far gone for too long, it could sulfate and then it’s time for a new battery. That wasn’t the car’s fault or the battery’s fault, just the usage conditions were not favorable to the battery.