Radiator on my 2013 RX350 is leaking near the lower coolant hose...pressure tested and confirmed its not the hose clamp, its leaking at the transition between aluminum fin area and lower black plastic section.

Searching for threads on replacing the radiator on the 3rd gen is not showing much, and only 1 video on YouTube that is helpful, but not the most technical. I am hopeful that I can avoid disconnecting/opening up the AC system to move the condenser when removing/replacing the radiator (guy in the YouTube video said he removed AC lines). I see some AC line support mounts I could open up that will yield an inch or two of movement for the condenser and associated AC lines without unscrewing the AC lines from the condenser, which should yield enough room to wiggle/slide the radiator out).

Has anyone hear tackled a radiator replacement or seen threads that might be helpful? I have searched several times for Gen3 RX350 radiator replacements, but come up empty. I plan to start on this project 2 or 3 weeks from now, so I have time for thoughts and discussion. I will post pics as we proceed.

Also - would a Lexus repair manual or other manuals be helpful and provide value-add information? I have no problem spending $20 - $40 for info that will be helpful. Any recs on which resource and where to purchase?

 

Good luck and keep us posted. I despise having plastic components anywhere near a radiator. They are always subject to failure.

 

I had the same exact leak in that location. I replaced the radiator. you don't have to disconnect the AC lines. there is wiggle room. when I put the new hoses on I used gates on the bottom and dayco on the top with screw clamps. when the temp changed from warm to cold weather the hoses leaked some. do yourself a big favor and replace the hoses and clamps with Lexus hoses and tension clamps. 2 hoses and 4 clamps with shipping was $110.00. no problem,s since I did that.

 

2011 RX 350. Radiator leaking from plastic piece coming out of radiator that cap goes on. 2007-2009 they sell a separate piece called a neck that you can replace.
Anyone know if I can replace the plug at the end of the next that's leaking, or new radiator???????
Looks like a round plug about the size of a half dollar. I can see there is a round rubber gasket. Has anyone ran into this and been able to fix?
Thanks!!!

 

Picture would help.

Structurally the radiator is bunch of pieces put together, used to be copper but things have changed. Some are now glued together and for that you need ideal settings [fresh product]. IMHO any work now is a bandaid work which might work. If the leak is in the pressurized portion, I would strongly suggest replace the radiator. You can check with radiator shops as to what they recommend and what warranty they provide.

Other way to look at it ... if you plan to keep the vehicle a temporary fix will rear it ugly head later. Things are not going to be cheaper say next year [both parts and labor]. Bite the bullet and get it done before you get stranded at an inopportune time and location.

Salim

 

UPDATE - I completed the radiator replacement this weekend. Start to finish probably 3 hours, could do it again in under 2 hours. Relatively easy and straightforward. Could do 95% of job solo, need another person when removing the fan shroud and radiator to avoid damaging condenser and radiator fins. I did not need to remove or disconnect the AC condenser, as there is enough room once the fan shroud is removed, to slide out the radiator while leaving condenser in place. The YouTube video above is a good overview to start with. Big picture the tasks are:

1) remove plastic cladding/covering in engine compartment, and under the engine
2) remove plastic air boxes on top of radiator, remove coolant overflow container, drain coolant from lower part of radiator (remove lower hose or open drain valve - approx 1.5 gallons flowed out for me)
3) remove 2 transmission oil cooler lines from radiator, keep the ends of the hoses up when disconnected so that tranny fluid does not run out. About a cup of tranny fluid is in the radiator and will ooze out after you disconnect the lines and remove the radiator from car - a bit messy. I suggest covering those w electrical or duct tape so they do not ooze as you remove.
4) remove metal top crossmember brace that covers the top of the radiator and includes the hood latch mechanism. 2 sets of bolts on each side, and 2 nuts in the center near the latch mechanism (one is hidden by a black plastic cap). Unscrew 2 horns (might be able to skip this). Lift crossmember out of place and leave on drivers side of engine compartment, as it will have a cable for the hood release running to it, don't need to remove or disconnect the cable, but it keeps you from moving it out of engine compartment. Just lay on drivers side of engine compartment.
5) Remove fan and shroud from engine side of radiator. Release cable tie-down points, so that largest electrical cord and connector can be removed from the fan shroud. Press in on the connector while pulling connector apart, to disconnect it. The other 2 smaller connectors that go to each fan can remain connected. With wire out of the way, remove 2 bolts from top edge of the fan shroud (They bolt into retainer nuts in the top of the radiator assembly). Fan shroud lifts up, then must work around the upper radiator hose connector and connector by the radiator cap assembly to get the shroud up and out.
6) AC condenser nests in front of the radiator, sits on 2 plastic "feet" that attach to lower part of radiator, and two "feet" at the top of the condenser. Remove top feet, or brackets, and lift condenser off the radiator. Disconnect the AC aluminum line support bracket that is on the left, engine side of the radiator - doing this allows the AC lines that go to the condenser to have a few inches of movement, making for room to separate the condenser and the radiator.
7) Carefully lift radiator up and away from the condenser, don't hit or scratch the condenser fins. Good time to vacuum or gently sweep the front of the AC condenser that probably has a lot of bugs, leaves, junk on the front side of it (better airflow = better cooling).
8) Swap the rubber mounts from the old radiator, 2 from the top side, 2 on the bottom side, slide new radiator into car, avoiding contact w the condenser. Now mount the 2 lower feet/brackets on the lower radiator, set condenser on the feet/brackets and nest condenser back in alignment w radiator, replace the top feet/brackets to rejoin the radiator and condenser back into one unified piece. If you put the lower feet/brackets on the new radiator when out of the car, its difficult to slide the radiator in place without scratching/gouging the condenser, thus I mounted the feet/brackets after it was in place, with a helper holding the condenser an inch higher, and out of the way while I bolted on the feet/bracket through the front drill w a 10 inch socket extension.
9) slide in fan shroud. bolt in place, reconnect electrical and snug wire into place.
10) attach new radiator hoses, new transmission hoses, clamps, refill w coolant - mine took approx 1.5 gallons. Automatic transmission (FWD) is sealed, I could have added a cup of transmission fluid to replace the cup or so that was in the radiator circuit, but I am opting to have dealer/shop drain/fill the transmission fluid since I am near 90k miles (and procedure to properly drain and fill this transmission is overly difficult).
11) replace front crossmember, bolts, air boxes, overflow tank, plastics top and bottom. Fill overflow tank to minimum level.

My cabin heat did not work when I started the car up...I also replaced my battery during this project so car had no juice for 3 hours, not sure if that was/contributed to the heater issue, or there was an air bubble or something else, but after starting and stopping the engine a few times, the heat did come back on. And AC works like normal. Job complete. Local repair shop quoted $1,350. I bought new oem radiator and coolant hoses from Wesley Chapel Lexus (Tampa) for $319 delivered. I will post pic/vids from my phone below.

 

Well done.

 

First video showing the removed crossbar or cross member and seeing the fan shroud section, the radiator in the middle and the ac condenser in front. Sorry, I did not intend to make a whole project video, just enough to help me when I put it back together.

 

Second part of this video. In the first 3 seconds you can see the black plastic “feet” or 1 inch brackets that attach to the lower part of the radiator, which the ac condenser sits on. Two brackets on the bottom, and then two brackets on the top hood the condenser in place. I found out that you MUST remove the electric fan shroud section in order to remove the radiator. I was able to leave the AC condenser in place, and not disconnect it.

 

Video showing upper brackets for ac condenser. Similar brackets or feet are in the bottom of the radiator, ac condenser held in place in front of the radiator by these 4 brackets (feet).

 

AC lines support bracket video, opened up the support so that ac lines could move around and allow condenser to move or wiggle a bit to allow radiator to be pulled up and out.

 

Pic of the electrical connectors into the cooling fans. You only need to unplug the single large connector. Squeeze the middle of the connector while pulling it out to release it. You do not need to unplug the smaller pair of connectors.

Leaking original radiator, see lower right corner.

Radiator feels flimsy and is plastic and aluminum.

 

I despise having plastic parts in ANY vehicle's cooling system. They are truly the weak link.

 

I have the same issue. Did you find an answer on your question? Thanks in advance.

 

I also have a leak in the same location. I’ve read and appreciate your detailed description of the repair and helpful videos. Question: you stated that you did not put the bottom ‘feet’ on the new radiator till after you placed it in position. Did you remove the old radiator with the bottom feet still on it?. Was there enough clearance to avoid scratching the condenser? Are the top and bottom feet friction fit on the radiator?