Yesterday, while doing rear brakes, I checked the shocks- both were slightly wet, so I decided to change them.

Since I did not have the replacement shocks, I decided to just check if I can remove the bolts. After spraying liquid wrench, I was able to loosen driver side bolts and lower one on the pass. side.

However, the pass. side upper bolt would not move- it would turn so very slightly when I switched my impact forward/backward repeatedly, but would not loosen up.
So I left it alone after spraying some more liquid wrench.

I was thinking that, if the bolt does not come out, I should be able to remove the whole bracket held by 3 smaller bolts, and then I'd be able to heat the nut with a torch.

Thanks

***Just noted a post by Clutchless describing the same problem- he did remove three bracket bolts.

 

Yep, and keep spraying everything with PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench especially the upper shock bolt. If you spray them several days in a row the bolts will be much easier to remove.

 

This works. I've even removed an axle carrier bearing from the bracket by hanging the axle and soaking with penetrating oil several times a day. Took about a week but it finally came free.

 

YES!
It worked- changed the shocks today, and did not need to remove the bracket.
After spraying the bolt and going back and forth with impact, it finally got loose.
While there, noted leaking upper control arm bushing.
Sprayed those bolts too but that looks like PITA to be doing by myself...

 

While replacing shocks today, I noted leaking upper control arm bushing, the one by the knuckle.
The bolt would not losen up, and there seems to be very little space on the other end of the arm.
This one looks like a trip to a shop, but I figured out it does not hurt to ask the RX community.
Any input is appreciated.

 

I thought those bushings were all rubber. It may be the leaking shock absorber fluid that you see on the bushing. I would clean it off with some brake cleaner and watch to see if it stays clean.
Most folks have had the rear trailing arm bushings wear out but I don't recall anyone having issues with an upper control arm bushing. The rear trailing arm is number 5. What part do you say is leaking?

 

^^ What he said. I would bet you are seeing the result of leaking shocks.

 

It is the upper control arm- #2 on tue diagram.
The bushing has thick grease inside under the rubber. I just touched it loghtly and the rubber came off the edge of it, exposing the thick grease inside, similar to what used to be injected in ball joints, but whitish in color.
Already ordered a new arm. Was not sure what to order so ordered Mevotech? Which is supposed to be an OE supplyer if I did my research correctly.
There is one available from Moog and twice cheaper but on the pictures it looks like it has solid rubber bushing. I maybe wrong on this one.

 

It could be that on prior service/complain bushings may have been treated/packed with silicon grease [surface/hole]. As such I am not aware of gel filled bushings.

Tip: When you put things back, make sure you tighten nuts/bolts with the vehicle on ground [not on jacks]. This is referred to as "laden". This ensures that all rubber parts are not twisted in normal position.
Depending on what could have moved, you may need rear wheel alignment.

Salim

 

On the Rock Auto photo of the Mevotech control arm one bushing is blue and appears different, like it may actually be filled with grease. The Moog bushings are both black, but one is different from the other.

 

Right- ordered Mevotech.

 

Thanks- I can't see how it's done unless I lower the RX without the wheel and place a wood block under the hub?

 

Think the situation through. Any bushing that swings while driving need to have the weight of the vehicle when you torque them down. Vertical bindings can be torqued with or without the weight. The principle is that when the vehicle is finally on the ground, none of the bushings are twisted in rest position. The rubber then gets twisted and untwisted as the suspension moves. With this understanding you can make a call on how you will handle each situation.

I would have the wheels on and they ensure safety too. I just face the nuts/bolts and at the end torque them down. I am obsessive about proper torquing to spec wherever I can.

Salim

 

I do understand the logic of tightening the bushing bolts in laden position.
Would be easier to do on a wheel alignment lift.
I did find a video for RAV4 wnere the guy measured the distance between the arm and the body, and then installed ed a new arm in the same position.
Another option would be to place a wood block under the knuckle and lower the vehicle without the wheel until it is level horizontally. That is what I will try to do.
Do you know the tighening torque for those bolts?
RAV4 was 66 ft/lb.

 

It is nice to have access to the right equipment, but alas as a DIYer we have to make do. I did front control arm replacement on my first gen RX and had no issues torquing the fasteners with wheel on ground.

For torques I would suggest TIS subscription. I invested in first gen service manual, but now the TIS is the way to go.

Salim