Has anyone hard wired a dash cam for always on power ?

I’m getting one today ( ) and wondering if I can ( and how ) do this ?

Thanks guys!

 

This may work :

 

I wouldn't recommend plugging into the OBDI as I feel it's not meant to deal with continuous plug-in (stress.), although this is widely advertised and used.

Go under the driver's side and check the fuse box for spares. Once you find one, plug into it with a fuse bridge like as I would consider this much safer!

Last, many of today's dashcams have an internal battery (sometimes a capacitor) that turns the camera on once the car gets hit or shaken and it records for about 30 seconds and therefore, there's no need for plugging it 24/7..

Hope this helps..

 

Ah! So THIS is what people mean by "find an open fuse." I have been searching for additional sources of power on the car for a dashcam. Since I am a dummy on these things, can you tell me if the fuse power is constant and (if so) could it drain the battery? If I may intrude upon your kindness

 

IIRC it depends on the circuit you use though most probably aren't always on. One way to determine if a circuit is always on is to refer to the circuit diagram and see if the item is powered up with the vehicle turned off.

Here's part of the 2013 manual covering the inside fuse panel but usually the fuse box cover will also tell you what each fuse is for.



Some vehicles also have accessory power taps at the interior fuse panel but I don't think the 3RX does (don't quote me on this).


You aren't looking for an open fuse with a fuse tap like the one heshamos posted. You're piggybacking on an existing circuit and then need to run ground to the nearest convenient grounding point. For the product linked above, you pull the existing fuse from the panel and insert it into the black box. The black fuse-shaped plug plugs into the fuse box and the red wire powers the device you're intending to add and uses the 5A inline fuse in the translucent plastic along the red wire. There's a product photo on that Amazon page that shows this:




I'm guessing you could replace that 5A fuse with one of a different rating if desired. Of note, I think the product linked above isn't right for the 3RX as I think we need low profile mini fuses.



I've mostly used fuse taps like this one where the fuse for the new circuit is the same type of fuse as used in the fuse panel though a common criticism of this type of fuse tap is that it uses crimp connectors. However, you can always cut off the crimp connector and solder.



I think I ran power from the fuse panel for the dash cam in our RX but I ended up using an Invisicord to tap into the mirror's harness where the windshield meets the upper frame to hardwire the radar detector.

Capacitor is definitely preferably because of the heat. I've had several dashcam batteries bulge (but thankfully not explode) due to exposure to the heat of the sun shining down through the windshield.

 

I wouldn't wire it to constant power if I were you as there are no means of preventing the battery drain. I have used black magic pro(https://www.blackboxmycar.ca/product...c-pro-blackvue) as a voltage regulator where if the module measure the battery voltage dropping below 12.5 volts it will cut the power to the dash cam to prevent continuous drain on the car battery. Or you can use a inline battery pack to power the dash cam from the external source(https://www.blackboxmycar.ca/collections/battery-packs).

Or using the 'add a circuit/fuse' concept and tap into the cig lighter, therefore run only when suv is running.

 

I'd prefer this.

 

Some kits have low voltage protection. I would choose these if I want to do permanent surveillance.

Amazon

Amazon

 

Thanks for the references. After reading a bit more, I was thinking of going the route of stealing power from mirror, which seems like an easy thing to do. There is a constant power and an ACC power line there, or so it seems. Of course, I can't wire one of those battery drain protection devices at the mirror! And I am afraid of battery drain... so if I want only a small wire and less hassle of wiring to the fuse box, I guess I will have to settle for ACC power only.

 

My camera is just a better "mediocre" brand and it holds the charge for weeks without live power supply to feed it while the engine is shutdown (not continuously recording though .. only when there's an impact or loud voice.)
Just focus on finding a camera with internal battery "or capacitor" and it will solve this problem for you. Then tap the included charger into the mirror or the 12v outlet under the middle console. Mine is working just great. The less the wire clutter the better protection of your investment.

Cheers..

 

How did the "Black Magic Pro" work for you. I am considering but looking for more information. Wouldn't be to cool if I killed the battery!

 

You still require the add a circuit bit you would tap a fuse that has constant power. You can set the magic pro to stop power draw by configuring dip switches to stop power to the camera by time or by battery voltage.

So for example if the battery under no load is 12.6 volts and you set the magic pro to cut power if the battery is below 12.2 volts. This will prevent the camera from further draining the battery.

 

Thank you... I know they have this option that plugs into the command module ( I believe it is called) to ovoid that problem... maybe?

 

I bought a front and rear dash cam from Black Box My Car (Thinkware Q800 Pro) along with a battery like you linked. I’ll be tapping into an always on circuit hopefully this weekend. This allows the dash cam to function with the car off and record people who hit the vehicle (or break into it) while parked.

 

I did mine today, I used the mirror fuse since it was 10 amps, grounded it and use the add a fuse which insets where the fuse was. Easy peasy.