Ok, question. Why are you recording it from tire well, not from engine bay? Is it louder down there?
Should it have been passenger side, I'd have said it's chain tensioner. But it's on transmission side.
Can you re record video with hood up? Thank you.

Hold on. Glad I took a second look. It IS passenger side. Timing chain tensioner or timing chain slap. If it's louder down at the tire well.
You need direct injection system with high pressure injectors mounted at the top of combustion chamber to make injector noise. We had Mazdaspeed Turbo, oh do I know that noise! Like machine gun.

 

When I opened the hood, there were other noises present(fan and etc) so I decided to record from the side-well as it is more isolated. The noise is not present when the car first starts and idles, only after it is driven for a while. And as you can hear it, it has a cycle where it stops for 2 seconds and repeats. Could it be from bad gas?
@Ukrkoz
-If it is timing chain tensioner, is it something I need to look at? Or are you saying it's normal behavior ?

 

How many miles on it? Could just be your serpentine belt or a tensioner of that system? Have you ever replaced those? They are directly behind the passenger tire behind an access panel.

 

 

No, it's not normal. Timing chain tensioner is about where you held your recording device, upper to mid wheel level, under timing cover. But chain tensioner should not be cycling, it should be constant noise relevant to RPMs. I am only saying - it sort of sounds like tensioner and comes from about right area for it.
You also have AC clutch there, now that may be cycling, if AC was on.
Either way, OP, you surely need to have it diagnosed. That's not a healthy sounding engine.

 

 

Please update when you can for my own curiosity. The cycle of those ticks was interesting given they said it was a lifter. I thought it would be more constant if caused by a lifter and not have a pause in the cycle. Thanks in advance and I hope all works out well!

 

 

Update:

Dealership was not able to replicate the ticking intensity that I had video recorded. They test drove the vehicle and the ticking was present but not as intense as the original video. Was told the ticking would need to be present while adjuster is on site but problem is they don't know when the adjuster will arrive. Therefore its a weird situation where a meeting point is hard to arrange because ticking intensity needs to be strong in order for warranty to be approved but adjuster arrival is random. (Vehicle needs to be driven for about an hour for the ticking to really kick in)

For the meanwhile it is recommended that I drive the vehicle until the ticking becomes more worst at a more common rate?

I'll pick up the vehicle soon then put in a new tank of gas. Following that, I will do an oil change to see if it helps. But after a follow-up research, I personally think the ticking is not from a lifter. My local mechanic had said to bring it to him and he will take a look at it. So will see what it comes down to.

 

What brand and weight oil are you using? What brand oil filter? Who is changing your oil since it appears it is not the dealer. It may be a change in oil brand may help reduce or eliminiate the ticking.

 

Mobil 1 synthetic 0w20 according to requirement. Had local mechanic did it first time and following that, I've been doing it myself as it is pretty straight forward(3rd oil change so far on this car- 6k-8k interval depending on weather)
Filter is OEM.

 

You may want to try Toyota Genuine Motor Oil next time as it is made by Exxon/Mobil for Toyota to their specifications. According to the folks at www.bobistheoilguy.com it was a more robust oil than Mobil One with more additives and slighty higher actual viscosity. But they think it may have changed over time. See paste below

TGMO has varied widely in its formulation over the years.
It is a Grp III oil but it looks like the add pack in the most recent formulation has reverted to a very high dose of moly along with very high VI, achieved only through the use of a very high VII content.
Nothing wrong with this oil, but maybe not the latest and greatest our current TGMO fanboi thinks it to be.
Personally, I prefer either M1 AFE or EP in this grade.
Both contain a nice percentage of PAO in their basestock blends and this shows for both in their class leading W and NOACK numbers.
Both of our 0W-20 cars will get AFE for their fall change, which will carry both through the coldest months.
I'm with you in that I don't want to do winter drains either.


Here is a link to the entire thread https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...ta-genuine-oil


You can find it at discounts online or check prices at local Toyota dealers.

I have been running Idemetsu synthetic 0w20 and all is well, engine is quiet but I still get the occassional rattle at start up. Some point to various sources of it, but none think it serious.

 

Did you ever determine what the tick was from and if it was normal? The F I just bought has a tick but it's not that bad and I suspect it's nothing serious.

 

I think it was an isolated incident. Lexus took it in for inspection and were not able to replicate the intensity of the ticking that I had recorded on the video. Maybe it was the summer heat or maybe it was bad gas from my upstate trip, who knows. I ended up changing engine oil with OEM toyota instead of Mobil 1 synthetic and filled up with city gas. The intense ticking has gone away ever since. A minor tick that you mentioned is normal as I still hear a little of it if I put my ears up to the wheel well. But nothing to worry about at this point.