Thanks for the update.
I'm starting to think that with all the security systems built in the steering column, the best idea is to bite the bullet and let the Lexus service make some money.

 

Honestly would agree. With something this complex, I never should have let anyone but the dealer work on it.

 

Did you try to tighten the bolt that connects the steering wheel/column to the intermediate shaft under the dash (this piece goes through the firewall)? There is a bolt by the U Joint piece above the brake pedal. I saw a Youtube video where the guy tightened it and got his noise to go away. You can also order a new bolt for that part too. There is another similar bolt in the engine bay at the other end of that shaft as well.

 

That was the first thing we tried was tightening everything up. It ended up needing the whole column assembly.

 

Hi, did they use a 2013 column for you? I was thinking of keeping the vehicle for a while longer and decided to get this done at the dealer also.

 

We tried 2 different used columns from 2013. Both showed the same symptoms.. So I bit the bullet on a brand new updated steering column from Lexus.

The thing to remember with those used columns is that most are from totaled cars.. So most will be damaged.. That's my experience at least.

 

Got it, that was my worry that some dealers whom are not familiar with the issues might order the older column and the problems come back in a few years/miles.

 

Exactly.. As soon as Lexus put in the brand new column, all was well. Make sure they use the updated part number (45250-0E081).

 

I have a 2010 with the rattle so I purchased a used 2015 column off Ebay. Followed Vlad's instructions/video to the tee but now I'm stuck
trying to get the OLD steering column housing onto the NEW shaft. There is a pin sticking out of the housing that is blocking the shaft.
This must be (or IS) the steering column lock. I can press it down with a screwdriver but it's impossible (afaik) to press it down so that I can
get the new shaft installed.

Question is, can I just install the NEW housing + NEW shaft and tow it to a dealership just to have them perform the "Steering Lock ECU
Registration Process" ?

 

Update. It turns out that I had to reassemble just enough the to turn the car on which "unlocked the column". Turned the car off (did NOT turn the wheel to "lock" it before turning off), and voila
the steering column was unlocked (no lock pin (pic above) preventing the install of the new shaft).

So while it is true (as the Vlad's video indicates) that you DO want to use the OLD steering column "housing" with the NEW shaft (to avoid ECU programming) you cannot do this if the column is locked
upon removal. I have no idea how he got the new shaft installed if the locking pin was activated.

All in all, I probably would not have done this if I knew what a pain it would be. Probably 8hrs total given I had to put things back together to unlock. There are a lot of steps and quite a few clips and bolts.
That said, the annoying rattle that was driving me crazy is gone and I'll be feeling like a champ for about 48hrs. If anyone is considering attempting this and/or is in the middle of it and has any questions,
feel free. Also, a shout out to Vlad for taking the time to make the video. I would not have done this without it.

 

I'm about to attempt this swap. How can I tell if my donor steering column is locked or unlocked? And if my donor column is locked, how do I unlock it?

Instead of swapping the housings, is it possible to swap the lock modules instead?

 

I posted a picture above showing the "pin" sticking out of the housing that will essentially block the shaft from fully entering said housing (redacted crude joke).
If the donor column includes a shaft fully inserted into the column and the shaft can be removed and FULLY re-inserted at will (flush; doesn't get blocked with about an inch to go), then it's not locked.
You don't want to use the donor housing anyways, just the donor shaft (unless you want to get Toyota (cheaper than Lexus dealer) to reprogram it (housing married to ECU apparently ..I don't know
whether that will even work, btw). Just make sure that before you disassemble that your existing steering column is not locked. Even if it is, you can spend 20 mins re-assembling some of the electrical connections
and have a dangerous telescoping steering column in your lap while you turn the car on to unlock it.

I don't think you're going to be able to swap the lock modules. There's video out there of someone in Japan disassembling the entire unit and it ain't pretty.

Good luck. 4 months later and I will say that this fix was well worth it. Almost like magic. Thanks to Vlad again!

 

How do I disassemble my steering column without locking it? Do I disconnect the battery while in the "ON" position (with engine off)?

Does it matter if the donor column is locked or if its built in Canada or Japan? I'm going to order a column from a Canadian 2015 RX.

Thanks for all your help!

 

Mine was locked [intentionally--a mistake] b/c before I started the procedure, I turned the car off and turned the wheel until it locked. To unlock it I started the car (it unlocks at that point),
and turned the car off and did not move the wheel to lock it. That worked for me, but it was made easier by the fact that I already had the unit out of the car and didn't
have to risk locking it again by moving the wheel during disassembly. So you're not screwed if you find it locked when you get it out.

RE: Jap/Can, you need to check your VIN#, easy to tell and there are a million posts on the net that can tell you how to do that. I think it does matter in this case.

Also, be careful to mark the wheel position BEFORE disassembly, both on the joint connector down below and the dash. I had to spend quite a few cycles adjusting it and it still isn't perfect.
And this is not something an alignment can help with. Get some mechanix gloves for this job or you will bleed!

 

What if the donor column is locked? Can I still remove the shaft from housing?