Installing Sub-woofer & Amp
03-13-17, 11:34 AM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Installing Sub-woofer & Amp
Hello All,
New to the forum but would like to share some information on hooking up a subwoofer and amp in 2011 RX350 while still keeping stock head unit and speakers. I used an adapter from Auto-Zone for the remote turn on for the amp(it cost $5-6). It allowed me to remove the Cigarette lighter fuse and plug a lead into it still utilizing the cigarette lighter but, ALSO supplying a lead wire to attach to. It has 2 fuses on it so they are both protected(15 amps each). I tapped into the subwoofer wires directly from the factory sub(Non-ML). The wires going into the factory sub are Red, blue and 2 whites. Both the red and blue wires are positive "+" while the whites are obviously negatives "-". I did not have to remove seats to get to these wires(where the factory amp is located). They are very easily accessible from the back of the vehicle where the spare tire rests. Just lift up on the handle to the spare and remove the 2 recessed holders(Sub is on left side).
The amp I used is a Rockford-Fosgate which has "High Pass Leads" on it. There was no need to buy an LOC to connect RCAs. I hope this helps out anyone tackling this project.
New to the forum but would like to share some information on hooking up a subwoofer and amp in 2011 RX350 while still keeping stock head unit and speakers. I used an adapter from Auto-Zone for the remote turn on for the amp(it cost $5-6). It allowed me to remove the Cigarette lighter fuse and plug a lead into it still utilizing the cigarette lighter but, ALSO supplying a lead wire to attach to. It has 2 fuses on it so they are both protected(15 amps each). I tapped into the subwoofer wires directly from the factory sub(Non-ML). The wires going into the factory sub are Red, blue and 2 whites. Both the red and blue wires are positive "+" while the whites are obviously negatives "-". I did not have to remove seats to get to these wires(where the factory amp is located). They are very easily accessible from the back of the vehicle where the spare tire rests. Just lift up on the handle to the spare and remove the 2 recessed holders(Sub is on left side).
The amp I used is a Rockford-Fosgate which has "High Pass Leads" on it. There was no need to buy an LOC to connect RCAs. I hope this helps out anyone tackling this project.
The following users liked this post:
sushiguy (04-21-20)
03-13-17, 04:34 PM
#4
I added an amp and sub aswell. I took it to a car audio place they hid the amp somewhere in the panel which is cool. And i used the JL preloaded 2 8 inch subs and box. They fit perfect and hit pretty hard.
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09-21-18, 08:21 PM
#8
Steveo55 what did the install cost? I have a Kicker L7 and Rockford amp mounted to woofer. WIll be taking it down soon to Cartoys. I would rather a proper shop install incase they F up the car. Would be nice to know what all are paying. I will have to pay for all the wiring harnesses. Ugh!
10-07-18, 08:21 PM
#9
Hello All,
New to the forum but would like to share some information on hooking up a subwoofer and amp in 2011 RX350 while still keeping stock head unit and speakers. I used an adapter from Auto-Zone for the remote turn on for the amp(it cost $5-6). It allowed me to remove the Cigarette lighter fuse and plug a lead into it still utilizing the cigarette lighter but, ALSO supplying a lead wire to attach to. It has 2 fuses on it so they are both protected(15 amps each). I tapped into the subwoofer wires directly from the factory sub(Non-ML). The wires going into the factory sub are Red, blue and 2 whites. Both the red and blue wires are positive "+" while the whites are obviously negatives "-". I did not have to remove seats to get to these wires(where the factory amp is located). They are very easily accessible from the back of the vehicle where the spare tire rests. Just lift up on the handle to the spare and remove the 2 recessed holders(Sub is on left side).
The amp I used is a Rockford-Fosgate which has "High Pass Leads" on it. There was no need to buy an LOC to connect RCAs. I hope this helps out anyone tackling this project.
New to the forum but would like to share some information on hooking up a subwoofer and amp in 2011 RX350 while still keeping stock head unit and speakers. I used an adapter from Auto-Zone for the remote turn on for the amp(it cost $5-6). It allowed me to remove the Cigarette lighter fuse and plug a lead into it still utilizing the cigarette lighter but, ALSO supplying a lead wire to attach to. It has 2 fuses on it so they are both protected(15 amps each). I tapped into the subwoofer wires directly from the factory sub(Non-ML). The wires going into the factory sub are Red, blue and 2 whites. Both the red and blue wires are positive "+" while the whites are obviously negatives "-". I did not have to remove seats to get to these wires(where the factory amp is located). They are very easily accessible from the back of the vehicle where the spare tire rests. Just lift up on the handle to the spare and remove the 2 recessed holders(Sub is on left side).
The amp I used is a Rockford-Fosgate which has "High Pass Leads" on it. There was no need to buy an LOC to connect RCAs. I hope this helps out anyone tackling this project.
- Does the dash pre-amp have an available line-level output (unused set of RCAs)? It is not a Mark Levinson system.
- What is the crossover for the factory sub? I want to be sure I can get below 50 Hz.
- I want to delay the 12 volt turn-on so the sub doesn't try to power while I'm starting the car. Does anyone have a recommendation on a delay module?
- Do I disconnect the factory sub or leave it connected and just "cut" into it?
-VGuitarist
10-09-18, 08:18 AM
#10
Moderator
The amp is in the rear under the hatch floor near the sub. Remove the carpet and floor liner and maybe some other pieces. Fold down the rear seats and look around. You should be able to find it. The sub is in the driver side rear fender toward the rear. I sort of recall the amp was somewhere on the floor behind the spare tire or to one side.
I suggest you refer to the first post above while looking at your own amp and determine those answers. I doubt the dash pre-amp has any available line level output. You will have to work with the main amp in the trunk. I would just do what the first post guy did. Or take it to a car audio shop.
I suggest you refer to the first post above while looking at your own amp and determine those answers. I doubt the dash pre-amp has any available line level output. You will have to work with the main amp in the trunk. I would just do what the first post guy did. Or take it to a car audio shop.
10-14-18, 07:06 PM
#11
Something is wrong...
I spliced the Bazooka Tube high level inputs to the factory red and blue wires (originally connected to the single speaker in the cargo area). The problem is the volume level is low despite having the Lexus head unit and subwoofer (250 watts) turned all the way up. Is it possible the rear single speaker volume is too low for the Bazooka tube? Should I buy a preamp (convert to line level) or move the high level inputs to the front driver's side speaker (loudest in my car)?
In a previous life, I installed a Bazooka tube into my old Grand Cherokee and didn't have this issue. Any thoughts? I'm an electrical engineer, so don't hold back with the techno-speak.
I spliced the Bazooka Tube high level inputs to the factory red and blue wires (originally connected to the single speaker in the cargo area). The problem is the volume level is low despite having the Lexus head unit and subwoofer (250 watts) turned all the way up. Is it possible the rear single speaker volume is too low for the Bazooka tube? Should I buy a preamp (convert to line level) or move the high level inputs to the front driver's side speaker (loudest in my car)?
In a previous life, I installed a Bazooka tube into my old Grand Cherokee and didn't have this issue. Any thoughts? I'm an electrical engineer, so don't hold back with the techno-speak.
10-15-18, 06:57 AM
#12
The Bazooka tech thinks the impedance to the factory speaker (dual coil) is less than 1 ohm. The tube's input impedance varies, but can't go below 4 ohms. I can't believe that would attenuate the audio that much, but maybe so. He recommended I connect the high level speaker wire to the low level RCAs (can take up to 3 volts). If I hear distortion, I'll buy a preamp. We'll see...
Last edited by Vguitarist; 10-15-18 at 06:38 PM.
10-16-18, 05:59 PM
#13
The Bazooka tech thinks the impedance to the factory speaker (dual coil) is less than 1 ohm. The tube's input impedance varies, but can't go below 4 ohms. I can't believe that would attenuate the audio that much, but maybe so. He recommended I connect the high level speaker wire to the low level RCAs (can take up to 3 volts). If I hear distortion, I'll buy a preamp. We'll see...
10-27-18, 11:19 AM
#14
The Bazooka tech thinks the impedance to the factory speaker (dual coil) is less than 1 ohm. The tube's input impedance varies, but can't go below 4 ohms. I can't believe that would attenuate the audio that much, but maybe so. He recommended I connect the high level speaker wire to the low level RCAs (can take up to 3 volts). If I hear distortion, I'll buy a preamp. We'll see...
01-18-21, 02:41 PM
#15
Sorry to bring up an old post but I had a couple of questions for those that have gone this route or a similar ine
1. Does anyone have a part number or picture of the item from Autozone that the OP mentions to supply a remote on to the amp?
2. I’m assuming the only other thing needed is a power wire and ground that runs from the battery to the aftermarket Amp. Does anyone have any good instructions or advice on how to route this?
3. I have an older JBL amp that I don’t believe has high pass leads. Can I splice into the wires that the OP mentions and use RCA type connectors?
thanks in advance.
1. Does anyone have a part number or picture of the item from Autozone that the OP mentions to supply a remote on to the amp?
2. I’m assuming the only other thing needed is a power wire and ground that runs from the battery to the aftermarket Amp. Does anyone have any good instructions or advice on how to route this?
3. I have an older JBL amp that I don’t believe has high pass leads. Can I splice into the wires that the OP mentions and use RCA type connectors?
thanks in advance.
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