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Battery life/replacement? (merged threads)

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Old Nov 13, 2017 | 12:33 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by MellonC00
I'm answering my own question for someone else's benefit. I found this answer from another automotive forum which I'm paraghrasing:
If there is overcharging going on, this hydrogen sulfide gas tends to condense on the outside of the battery case. This is why it appears to be "sweating". If your voltage regulator inside the alternator is set to more than 14 volts, your battery will "sweat" a lot more and your battery life will be shortened because of overcharging. This process may also cause corrosion of the metal in and around the battery case where it is mounted.
Not sure how that is possible since H2S has a boiling point of -76 degrees F. That is not H2S on the outside of the battery case.
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Old Nov 13, 2017 | 03:06 PM
  #62  
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Correct... H2S will remain as a vapor in virtually all conditions we live in, and we will never see a liquid version of H2S on our batteries... or on anything else for that matter. If H2S gets released during an overcharging situation, you will smell it very quickly as H2S has an extremely low detection level (by smell), and it will smell like rotten eggs. This situation generally happens ONLY when almost all of the water has been evaporated from one (or more) battery cells.
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Old Nov 15, 2017 | 08:10 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by iolmaster
Not sure how that is possible since H2S has a boiling point of -76 degrees F. That is not H2S on the outside of the battery case.
Looks like the info I got was wrong. I will revise.
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Old Nov 16, 2017 | 01:56 AM
  #64  
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Just replaced the OEM in my 2011 RX450h. It was 12v under load, car still starts up fine.

New battery shows 12.5v under load.

The battery might have lasted another year, but I don't see the point of doing so, as these cars are a bit of hassle to "jump" start.
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Old Nov 16, 2017 | 09:06 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by 703
Just replaced the OEM in my 2011 RX450h. It was 12v under load, car still starts up fine.

New battery shows 12.5v under load.

The battery might have lasted another year, but I don't see the point of doing so, as these cars are a bit of hassle to "jump" start.
Can you explain how to measure the battery under load? What tool did you use?
Thanks
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Old Nov 16, 2017 | 11:40 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by zmel
Can you explain how to measure the battery under load? What tool did you use?
Thanks
Auto parts store have a hand held tester that has the load and has the measurement capability to monitor.

Salim
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Old Nov 18, 2017 | 02:18 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by zmel
Can you explain how to measure the battery under load? What tool did you use?
Thanks
no need to buy load tools - waste of money. Here is what I do.

After leaving car overnight after it had been driven or charged, turn the car to ON mode (after accessory mode). Use a volt meter on the 12v ciggie socket - you can buy a quality one like this one I use:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000EVWDU0/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It should really read above 12.0v.
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Old Nov 18, 2017 | 06:40 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by 703
no need to buy load tools - waste of money. Here is what I do.

After leaving car overnight after it had been driven or charged, turn the car to ON mode (after accessory mode). Use a volt meter on the 12v ciggie socket - you can buy a quality one like this one I use:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000E...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It should really read above 12.0v.
I agree that one should not purchase load tester. The stores do the check for you for free.
Keep in mind voltage test is a simple test that does not check the full health of the battery. Example I can hook up AAA size batteries and get 12v, but they could not work in an automobile. Proper test includes voltage test, and load test.

Salim
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Old Nov 18, 2017 | 09:42 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by salimshah
I agree that one should not purchase load tester. The stores do the check for you for free.
Keep in mind voltage test is a simple test that does not check the full health of the battery. Example I can hook up AAA size batteries and get 12v, but they could not work in an automobile. Proper test includes voltage test, and load test.

Salim
there's enough load with the car in On position. There are also AIr Con and head lights you can turn on.

Again in no need to take it to any shops.
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Old Nov 18, 2017 | 04:32 PM
  #70  
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Rather than test at the 12V outlet go right to the battery, since you already have a tester. Under load is should maintain 12V, slightly above, with the engine off. Readings will gradually fall off over time without a recharge.
Start the engine & check across the terminals. You should see 13.8V to 14.2 V if your alternator is working properly & is actually able to recharge the battery.
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Old Jan 2, 2018 | 10:12 AM
  #71  
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the original OEM battery on our '12 RX finally showed it's age... can't complain with the 5/6 yrs we got out of it... with the recent cold weather in the tri state area, it left my dad stranded NYE... the dash showed a 'Check AWD System' and during start, you can here the starter motor rattling away... next morning i went to the car and my meter showed the battery at just 8v... i jumped it and got the car home... put it on the trickle charger the last 12 hrs... battery will be replaced tonight...
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Old Jan 2, 2018 | 11:17 AM
  #72  
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Trick to start in cold weather I step on gas pedal 2 or 3 times at the most and start the car. If over do it gas will flood. That way it'll start at first try. We just went thru couple weeks of pretty cold and damp weather. Temp. ranging from -25 to -35 C. Had no problem starting my car parked outside while wife and son's cars were in the garage.
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Old Jan 2, 2018 | 02:53 PM
  #73  
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That may still work with older (carborater based) vehicles where a kick down chamber would squirt raw gas in the the intake. Modern vehicles measure air (oxygen) being sucked in by the intake and then based on chemical equation injects the right amount of fuel. It further tweaks the amount of fuel by measuring amount of unburnt gas in the exhaust. All this further modified by measuring the engine temperature [choke equivalent].

Then there are tricks that we use ... if idle air valve goes bad ,,, hold down the throttle a bit ... etc.
Salim
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Old Jan 2, 2018 | 04:03 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by Htony
Trick to start in cold weather I step on gas pedal 2 or 3 times at the most and start the car. If over do it gas will flood. That way it'll start at first try. We just went thru couple weeks of pretty cold and damp weather. Temp. ranging from -25 to -35 C. Had no problem starting my car parked outside while wife and son's cars were in the garage.
Sorry, that is just not how it works these days. Pressing down on the gas peddle does nothing unless the car is running. These are drive by wire vehicles.
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Old Jan 3, 2018 | 08:03 AM
  #75  
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Or you can carry a heavy duty "battery booster pack", the same kind tow trucks use to jump start others. I recently was on an RV trip to the ski slopes in the high mountains and our kids tend to run the "house battery" down while parked without the generator running/engine running and then the "car battery" will start to drain. The RV generator was starving for oxygen under load even with adjustment for altitudes (but we were at 11K+ feet up).

So we did not want to be stranded in the high mountains in the cold. We had our battery booster FULLY charged and ready to go at moments notice.




Originally Posted by iolmaster
Sorry, that is just not how it works these days. Pressing down on the gas peddle does nothing unless the car is running. These are drive by wire vehicles.
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