Hey, I have recently purchased a 2013 RX350 AWD. All was well until my dash lit up like a Christmas tree. ABS, power steering, headlamp level, engine light, etc So, I went to my local (very skilled) mechanic, who ran diagnostics. It related that the ABS ESU module is faulty, and that the other systems have lit up as a response. So, I went online, got a unit,(in the US they call it a brake actuator) and after 2 weeks it was delivered to Panama. The first half of the part # matched, but the last digits differed. My mechanic said he was concerned they were not the same so I should check with tfe dealer. Long story short, five providers later & they all swore they had the right part.. but the last five digits were all different from each other and from my parts as well. Soo... the big question: do you all think I can safely install the part I have on hand? I cannot find one anywhere with the identical numbers... They all start the same: 44540- and all claim that they are correct for my car and VIN. Can all these parts purveyors and dealers be different? Help! Lost in Panama'

 

The same part can have different numbers for various reasons such as different suppliers, different manufacturing dates, different manufacturing plants. This is to track the parts and which vehicles have them in the event of a recall etc. They are all basically the same part. I would say you are safe to install it. Especially if it looks like your old one.

However, often when all those warning lights appear it is a sign your battery is dying. The light sensors are very dependent on getting the correct voltage. If it gets low due to a weak battery, various apparently random warning lights appear. Have you checked your battery and charging system?

 

Thank you so much Clutchless! Hearing that from someone who really knows these cars is really supportive. Yes, I recently installed a new battery, but will run an ammeter to make sure the electronics are up to speed.

 

Let me share my experience [although it is with first gen rx]

I am with Clutches on some thing with the voltage, before zeroing in to the ABS module. I would ignore ABS till everything else is determined to be good AND the only light is ABS. This is what I call zeroing to ABS. Your mechanic aught to be able to disconnect ABS and observe everything else is good [no other lights]. See first gen threads on this ... some members have it disconnected.
I chased my tail for a year to fix the ABS light on. Finally I laid my hands on how to test the ABS from Lexus. I read it but jumped ahead and did the test and it showed me an error code and I replaced the ABS and the error persisted. Time lapsed and till there was a need to test my alternator. The alternator would provide the right DC voltage, but the bench test said blown diode(s) [the alternator produces multiphase AC and that is rectified by the diodes. I put in the new diode pack and brushes (although they were still good). Next time I started the RX the ABS light turned off. Only then I re-read the test procedure. First line states, make sure you have good 12v supply.
My learning .. You can have good 12v dc but the alternator can still provide ac ripple that can fool ABS.

Summary: before you go too far down the path, re-access.

Salim
PS: I later realized that my alternator diode(s) blew as the battery had a shorted cell.