Awesome job thank you for sharing!
Your filter looks disgusting but at least you got a proper filter and a big magnet!

When I dropped my pan my screen was like new- so all that super fine debris was circulating in my fluid!
My magnet couldn't hold any more material so the rest was gray sludge on the bottom of my pan.

PS-hopefully the OP will forgive us for drifting a little- I was just wondering how the Mazda stacks up to the Lexus on these matters
and appreciated the info.

 

No problem! I immediately remembered you asking to take pictures while they were prying the pan open, haha. I'm glad that at least the filter managed to do its job. What mileage did you drop your pan at? Maybe it wasn't the original filter?

Actually, Mazda's transmission is also built by Aisin so I would say thats its applicable in this case, although it's a different model number from what Lexus's use. According to the wikipedia link for my gearbox it's based on the ZF 6HP which makes sense because they actually feel very similar. It is an absolutely fantastic transmission.

Cheers!!!

 

I'm getting older so my memory isn't perfect but if I remember correctly I got the car at 120K ish miles.
I did a couple of drain and fills over the next couple of years until the pan drop this year somewhere between 145-150k miles approx.

My problem is my driving may be considered extreme duty by some people because it gets very hot down here in S. FL
and I spend a lot of time idling in a metro area. Most of the miles are to the store and back a mile or so each way. The previous
owner since new was a Dr and he drove the same way to work and back.

So my mileage at 145K might be equal to much more in highway miles and maybe this is why some CL members have been successful
on the original fluid at high miles I don't know- but mine was heading for disaster and I'm glad I did the pan drop.

PS- Was definately original- the engine mounts had never been broke lose and the pan bolts still had the thread lock on them like virgin.

 

I wonder why the mesh screen didnt do a good job picking up the loose shavings.

Looks like those drain and fills were just breaking the shavings loose and letting them float around...

 

Because I had no shavings to speak of- It was a large amount of super fine metal powder and only looks like shavings when my magnet stick it all together.
Nothing in the screen/filter because too fine.

 

That is what I meant by shavings, this metallic powder stuff that's sort of mixed in with the fluid.

 

Ah yes sorry- that's what I'm calling the gray sludge- it was a mix of tranny fluid with metal powder that was weakly attracted to the bottom of the pan where it seemed to live.
It was nasty.
I was suspecting any fine metal not on the magnet or sludged on the bottom of the pan would be circulating in my fluid.
PS- I would like to hear if others have seen this too.

 

It seems like transmissions specifically have this pan design to try and keep the crap at the bottom of the transmission, so I think most of it wont be circulating inside the unit.

I think Lexus is similar, but in my Mazda the plastic box tube filter thing was in between the pan and the transmission itself, so it seems to have done a good job at keeping the metal powder away from the solenoids. Smart design.

 

Very good view point of why to drop the pan vs a basic drain & fill.....Yeah it is a little more to do or have done, but you got to ask yourself......Would you rather do or have done that basic job or go thru the trans?

 

Dont get me wrong drain and fills are totally fine to do but only if the pan magnet and filter is clean... otherwise it's almost like changing your engine oil but leaving the old dirty filter in there.

With high mileage, if you want to do it right you have one obvious option. Better not touch the transmission at all if a drain and fill is all you plan to do. I've actually heard a story where some dudes transmission suffered a catastrophic failure literally right when he left the shop that did the drain and fill. I think it was an Infiniti with 200k miles.

 

Yeah drain/fills would work, as thats what some do. My thought being new to this way, every 2nd-3rd drain/fill is drop the pan. Have'n had a few high powered v/8 automatic vehicles w/ deep sump trans pans, I've always swapped out the trans fluid & filter. If you just bought a vehicle w/ no paperwork, I'd pull the trans pan at least once soon after you bought it. Thats what I plan to do after I figure whats the best way to go for a trans cooler, the oem trailer tow style or a aftermarket Hayden one.

 

To me makes more sense to drop the pan first before doing drain and fills.

 

Agreed; "Lifetime fluid" doesn't exist! Each time I've done a Drain & Refill, I've noticed a HUGE difference in responsiveness!! Car drives SO MUCH BETTER after a drain & refill; so I highly recommend you do it, every 30K to 50K miles (50k km to 80k km). Stick with the Toyota/Amsoil. I found that the Dealer charges about same price as the local Midas for a drain & refill, so make sure you call the dealer for price comparison.

 

Changing the trans fuild on a RX330 is quicker/easier than changing the oil as it is only a single bolt in the bottom then filled from the top (usually about 5 qts). Changing out the trans filter is a bit more involved but not a bad job at all. I agree it should be done every 50k. Anyone buying a new-to-them RX should ALWAYS have this fluid changed ASAP

 

This^^^^ as well as the ptu/transfer case & rear diff fluild. I've changed the trans fluid/filter as well as the transfer case twice & did a drain/fill once since we've had this vehicle. A gallon maxlife, Wix trans fllter, 2 qtrs of 75/90 Royal Purple for the transfer case/rear diff. I've changed the transfer case fluid twice.