I have a 2007 RX 350 AWD that has developed a noise in the passenger side rear wheel area. Sounds like snow tires, but just on the pax side rear.

I replaced the tires and had all wheel alignment [as they were due] and the noise is still there. Reading many testimonials and other info I am finding the wheel hubs in the AWD models in the date range that includes my vehicle have a propensity for failure after 100K. I am at 127K.

Anyone else changed these? The replacement looks very straightforward (I am an experience auto and aircraft mechanic).

What are the best options (links to site please) and what prices have you all found for these? Seems like about $100 per wheel is typical for [probably Chinese] variants. How about OEM?

Thanks. No rush. Just plan on making the change for both rear hubs over the Winter.

 

Recently had my rears done, 05 AWD, a few months back. I only have 97K on the clock as we speak (post hubs). Rear passenger was the culprit but I did the pair to be safe. Got a pair of SKF hubs from RockAuto. Best bang for your buck/warranty through RockAuto. Timken are apparently the rage but I couldn't find them for a reasonable price.

I had an indy do them with me as an aid but it was a straightforward process. We had to deal with a lot of rust though.

 

Thanks. What were your indications the replacement was needed? The car drives fine, just that "snow tire whir" sound from right rear area (pax side).

 

raise the rear of the vehicle, ideally support on jack stands for safety and check for wiggle by shaking each rear tire.

This video should help a lot with your issues.

 

I replaced both of mine about a month back.

I bought one Timken (HA590338) and one NSK (59BWKH09), and to my surprise, the Timken was identical to the NSK hub with NSK markings but in a Timken box (and for almost $100/hub more).

Similar to you, I had the loud noise from the rears but thought it was just tire noise. The dealership actually pointed out that the hubs were going, but wanted $1500. I did both sides myself for $250 including the special nut and 12 point socket, and a gear puller to make it easier.

 

Thanks for the responses.

The NSK is Japanese and looks to me the way to go.

ANOTHER QUESTION: My RX was made in Canada, not Japan, I'm assuming that has no effect on the fit? Also, is replacing the hub nut considered standard or best practice. I found the NSK hub assembly on Amazon very reasonable and they show a Dorman brand hex spindle nut as being frequently purchased along with hubs. Reasonably cheap sold as pari for $5.25. So I'll probably just order both hub assembly and nut (2) and be done with it.

 

If you look at the Timken listings online, you can see the NSK model number stamped onto the top of the hub if you look closely, which was indeed the case when I got both of my boxes.

Yes, you should replace the hub nut. I got both of mine off cleanly using a cold chisel and wrench, but used the Dorman 2-pack on Amazon to replace the older nuts (they are identical to OEM) as it would have been weakened. The hardest part of the whole process was getting the nut to 217 lbs/tq (and dealing with old rusted parts).

You can purchase the actual tool Lexus uses to remove and lock the nut into place ( ) or the combo pack with the 12 point socket ( ). There is some differing information online whether it is a 30mm 12 point socket, or 32mm 12 point socket depending on where it was manufactured, but mine was 30mm (Canadian car).

The NSK will fit, it would only differ if you had the FWD model instead (different hub with black center).

 

Does this bring back memories-- all bad!. Glad i went through it but my rears were a pain in the A$$. Start with the fact that they wouldn't budge, dust sheilds were rusted so bad i just ripped them off and never replaced and not to mention putting the park brake back was another pain. My hubs were on so bad that i used everything- even heat- and it beat the hell out of me but , alas, 3-4 hours later it was done. My clue as to they needed attention was a somewhat plane engine roar coming from the back. If you need these all i can say is put a day aside and don't cheap out. I think Timken's are the best .
Good luck!

 

The culprit side was so bad it sounded like a semi-truck passing when I was over 60mph. The other side was not as bad but did make a slight whirl noise.

Hoping to squeeze another 90K out of these haha

 

Thanks again everyone. I ordered the NSK hubs (2) off Amazon, the special tool and socket. Watched several videos and since my RX has spent it's life in the south and in a garage, I'm not expecting much rust or corrosion issues that a basic blast of PB Blaster won't cure. I also have a 1970 VW Cabriolet and have experience removing rear axle nuts that haven't been removed in 20-30 years and succeeded.

So I expect a Saturday set aside once it cools off here to tackle the job and I'll be ridin' in a quiet car again.

Thank you again!

 

Good Luck!

If you are having trouble taking the Rotor off, pick up two 8mm 1.25x50mm hex head bolts that screw into the assembly to push the rotor off (make sure your ebrake is disengaged). And then to get the old bearing hub off the axle spindle, I used a 3 prong gear puller and it broke free relatively easy (I used a ball peen and steel mallet before that with no luck). If after that, the rotor is stuck to the dust plate, just whack it a few times and it will break free as well. First one took a while, but I had the second one done in an hour.

 

Let us know how it goes. Update this thread when you're done, a lot of people in this forum will benefit from your comments and feedback on the job.