From what I've read, it looks like the transfer case DRAIN plug isn't that big of a deal to remove, but that is not the case for me. I can't get a closed end wrench on it as it is partly recessed and the bolt is thin, so can't get a good grip on it. The only thing that will fit properly is a 24mm short socket but then I only have 1/4 inch of room left for the ratchet. The exhaust pipe is right in the way. So aggravating!

How are you getting this drain plug extracted? I'm currently looking for a pass thought or max axcess 24mm socket which would work great...if I can find one. A 24mm socket with made to accept a wrench on the end as well as a ratchet would work too...if I can find one. Or even an offset 24mm socket but ??? This should not be so difficult

Any tips are greatly appreciated!

 

Get a 24mm Crow's foot on it. Make sure you have the type of crow's foot that has the two ends that box in the bolt and not the type that have an open end. You may try a Tubing wrench which is similar.

A pass through socket of 24MM is going to be large and may not have enough clearance any ways.

If you can get a socket on it, I would think you could get a crows foot on it.

If not, remove some of the bracket and hanger rubbers from the exhaust system and move it aside as needed to create more clearance. My understanding is you have trouble with the exhaust pipes being in the way.

 

Remove the fill plug first, then do the drain. You will be in a world of hurt if you drain the case and can't get the fill plug out.

 

I used an adjustable wrench on the drain plug...and a thin wall socket with an extension for the fill plug.

 

Flex T handle with copper pipe as extension and use hammer to unplug the fill plug first.
Just as Rainbird mentioned always unplug the filler plug.
Flex t handle use short 24mm short socket just enough clearance, copper pipe used is 3/4 inch.
No problem.

 

this is the breaker bar I am talking about with 24mm short socket. Use copper plumbing pipe insert
to the bar and with hammer bang at the copper pipe end, things will be loosen.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CRAFTSMAN-TOOLS-1-2-DRIVE-18-FLEX-T-HANDLE-BREAKER-BAR-SAVES-RATCHET-USA-MADE-/321143819934?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ac5a9ce9e

 

I just had my dealer do it. Really didn't want to go through all of this BS.

 

Without getting dealer involve this is something that is easily done, to each his own.

 

where do you guys buy the short 24mm socket? I went to many hardware stores including Sears, Ace etc and couldn't find it. I couldn't find anything less than 1.2 inches which is too long to do this job.

 

The shallow socket is what you want, using breaker bar that is what you use to unscrew the plug.

 

It`s not that easily done @ home on the garage floor on your back. But as you mentioned already, "to each their own"

 

+1 for this...

 

I had the same problem with our Highlander, and I have pretty much every type of wrench available. Nothing would work, even an open-ended wrench, as it was just starting to round off the corners of the plug.

I ended up buying a cheap 24mm 6-point socket at AutoZone and sacrificing it by slicing off about 3/8" with my cutoff tool. This made a very shallow socket, which is fine since the plug is also not very tall. This gave me enough room to put the socket and a ratchet on the drain plug.

Be aware that the washers they put on these plugs are one-time use. You should get new washers, they "squash" flat when you tighten the plug.

 

what ever works. It is way better taking to dealer and get rip off.

 

Thats what I`m trying to tell you, it wasnt much at all to have it done. So it was a no brainer for me.