Savnout

I have a 04 Rx330 and since I got the car 5 years ago always have had weird occasional problems like the battery light popping on dash when starting, or the headlight leveling light will come on when starting. I've always been able to reset ecu (unplug neg battery cable) and all is good, until 3 months later it would happen again. I've always had a parasitic draw somewhere in the system. Using a multi meter I believe I have tracked it to a ECU fuse that draws about 3-4amps when car is off. It's cost me 2 batteries now in last 4 years. If car sits more than a 4 days, it will die due to draw. Techstream 13 says all is good.
anyway, the other day I noticed that the power windows stay on when car is off. .My dog was in car (car was in a cool Garage before everyone starts with the bad owner rap) for like 10min (daughter left her in car..long story) but when I heard her barking, she rolled down the windows. I even tested myself. I got into car, locked doors with fob and waited 20min and windows are able to be used..all of em.

I figure this might be my mysterious draw from ECU. Does anyone else notice if their windows stay active with car off, key removed?

Is there a window controller I should look to replace/test?

Thanks.
Sean

Savnout



Savnout

Does anyone know if ECU only controls operation of windows (besides master switch) or is there a Multiplexer for windows? My windows keep staying on when car is off.

I'm thinking my ecu is going, always had arranged problems with this car, always been able to solve with battery disconnect to clear ECU.

Thanks.
Sean

Savnout

I figured I would post an update to my problem of the power windows staying on after the car was locked, it was killing my Battery. Thought originally it was the window master switch. Nope. (Don't bother with cheap junk ones on ebay, I bought 2 and both caused weird things to happen to my car. One killed the temperature gauge and other causes ABS light to come on and temp gauge to go inop. Go to junkyard it get an orginal somewhere, used. $450 for a new one from toyota is a little much.

The problem was the Body Control Module. Fortunately a user Sambdrov (sorry for spelling) helped me track it down on this forum. And the car has like 3 control moduels, but the windows are controlled from the interior (NOT ENGINE), fuse box.

I got lucky and found a used one on eBay from a user who didn't know the fuse box houses the BCM, only pad $60 for it. Other sellers wanted $120-$250 for it.

Install was very short, I took it to my local mechanic (who originally thought it was Master window switch) but I didn't hold him to that, this was a bugger of a prob, he had it for 3 days.
I have bad knees and it was worth the $60 to have him install it. I have to now hook tech stream up to car, all my light and door lock settings got erases but car now sits locked and doesn't die overnight.

BCM location, in fuse box, driver's side, under instrument panel.

SavPS - I cracked open the fuse box and pulled out the BCM to give anyone who wants to take a look...I couldn't see the damage, but I'm sure someone will notice something.

Margate330

>> " (Don't bother with cheap junk ones on ebay, I bought 2 and both caused weird things to happen to my car. One killed the temperature gauge and other causes ABS light to come on and temp gauge to go inop. Go to junkyard it get an orginal somewhere, used. $450 for a new one from toyota is a little much."

That's funny!
Yeah I can totally see that happening because every interior module that sends/receives data on the BEAN bus can be heard & responded to by any other module on the same data bus including the one in the instrument cluster. So in theory all it takes is a module sending the wrong address/id & data(etc) and boom wierd things can happen. Sounds like the afternarket unit the OP purchased on ebay was not fully tested on our year/model aka "not as advertised". lolol

>> "I got lucky and found a used one on eBay from a user who didn't know the fuse box houses the BCM, only pad $60 for it. Other sellers wanted $120-$250 for it."

That's what I did too.
Found it listed as "fuse box" but it was the whole unit. Caution for others, recommend going under dash with a flashlight and getting your Body Ecu PN# first and a good look at what it looks like since many of the listings on ebay are wrong aka not the Body Ecu or wrong year/model.

Thank you for sharing your fix!

Savnout

My problem is back. I can't believe it. It's been a year since I changed out the fuse box (which has the multiplex unit inside) and it's doing it again!!

The window stay live after the car is off and keys removed. This is insane.

** I tried to roll windows down with key in door lock holding key clockwise and counter clockwise and nothing. Read somewhere this is a sign of bad master window switch.
I had this issue fixed with replacing the driver side fuse box and now it's back.. omg. After I changed the fuse box I did lose control of hatch switch with car running. I figured I got a very similar fuse box (cause I didn't compare serial #'s and just trust the eBayer I bought it off of). But the windows would stay off with car off... Now it's back, a year later? Strange.

On2wheels

I have a similar issue with master window switch stay on. I replaced the switch with cheap eBay part and issue remains (but have heard the cheap switches are not reliable). About to order another switch from Switch Doctor but wondering if my issue could be the BCM.

Any chance you have solved your issue? Curious to hear how you fixed it.