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RX - 2nd Gen (2004-2009) Discussion topics related to the 2004 -2009 RX330, RX350 and RX400H models

Timing belt change nightmare

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Old Jun 20, 2016 | 08:09 PM
  #61  
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brianmch
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From: Mo
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Glad it went well for you AR.

Now I gotta do my steering rack, LCA's, and struts. I hear the arms are really time consuming with a shop bid of 15 hrs labor!
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Old Jun 27, 2016 | 11:10 AM
  #62  
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arsooner
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From: Arkansas
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I did not do seals. Whats everyones take on doing seals at 100M with the belt and water pump? No leak no change? Thxs
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Old Jun 28, 2016 | 03:25 AM
  #63  
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I'm about to get my RX330 2004 97K timing belt and water pump changed next month my mechanic told me once he gets into it he will determine whether or not it needs new seals if there's any leaks. If no leaks he will not replace them.
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Old Jun 30, 2016 | 07:31 AM
  #64  
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It's cheaper and easier to just get the seals done when in there. If they start leaking 20k miles afterwards it's an expensive fix, or just a leaky mess until you get the tbelt done again.
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Old Oct 21, 2016 | 02:35 PM
  #65  
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lextout
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there all the same, i had a friend in dubai that had a ls400 brought to him from the u s and 95% parts are interchangeable, btw like 1 in 4 cars in the UAE is an LS modle.
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Old Nov 7, 2016 | 08:35 AM
  #66  
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arsooner
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2006 RX 400h:

Just finished my timing belt (w/kit), seals & water pump. Not hard but time consuming. The belt looked pretty good, seals even better. Water pump leak, dried pink gunk around weep hole, the seal/gasket was fine. The weep hole was the leak. About six hour but took my time. The mirror and the rear cam seal is ruff. I bought a OEM kit from Evergreen Parts with a Mitsubishi belt that had cam and crank markings. Forget the mirror!! Once **"everything is TDC"**, at least front cam and crank, the rear cam therefore has to be. Take the belt off, rotate the rear cam froward, till you can see the timing mark on the cam gear, a-line the cam mark on the gear to the new belt cam mark (solid line), a-line the front cam gear mark with the belt cam mark (solid line). Use plastic ties or strong clips to hold both in place. A-line the belt crank shaft marks (dotted line) with the belt sprocket dot. Replace tensioner bearing, idler bearing and hydraulic tensioner. Check by feel to be sure that every tooth has found a home in the sprocket. You will have to move the the cams and crank doing it this way but as long as marks on the cams and crank a-line with the the correct marks on the belt you are good. However, if you want to drag out the mirror for a final check.....................go for it. P.S. Be sure the belt is facing out/away from the motor, arrows toward you.
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