rxpx40

iTrader: (1)

Just finished up day 2 of the RX330 timing belt replacement nightmare.
The car is running well now, but Oh_My_Gawd! What a nightmare.
The biggest problem I had in this procedure was with the power steering pump. That damn thing was in my way when working on the timing belt tensioner. I finally had to dismount it from the motor.
But let me turn the 'way-back clock' to the beginning of this endeavor;
My wife's RX330 was approaching 114 thousand miles. I have been obsessing about the timing belt since 100K miles. Knowing that if it were to fail I would be up to my waist in engine rebuild, I was losing sleep at nights. I finally wrung some cash and time from my wife's schedule to work on her car.
I had watched the video from *realfixesrealfast.com* on timing belt replacement on a 2000 RX 300, so I knew the differences 'tween the vehicles would be negligible.
HA!
They never had any trouble with the power steering pump. That damn thing gave me so much trouble I had to damn near remove it to complete this task, but I digress.
My first problem was thinking I could use my air ratchet and air sockets to get this job done. NO WAY.
The deep well air sockets I have are too deep to get the ratchet and socket in between the bolts and the fender well. Any standard socket on a ratchet was too shallow to reach past the deep set each bolt was, specifically the timing belt cover, water pump bolts, etc.
It took damn near my entire inventory of tools to complete this job.
I started at 19:30 hrs on Thursday evening with a hot engine. The alternator adjustment bolt is a MF to get loose. I had to reach down between the radiator fan housing and the exhaust heat shield with a 12mm ratcheting box wrench to loosen the alternator adjustment bolt. I could get 1/8" turn with each repetition, and had to loosen the bolt about 12 turns.
By 11:30 I was down to the water pump. The old timing belt was off and I was trying to wedge the new water pump and gasket up under the plate that sits behind the cam gears.
After installing the new water pump, timing belt tensioner and timing belt, we obsessed about the timing mark on the rear cam gear for 30 min. You can only see it using a small mirror. Our alignment was good, we released the pin from the tensioner and rotated the engine through 360 degrees of crankshaft rotation, checking everything again.
Filled the car with new coolant,installed everything we removed and started the car.
It had a slight knock, but otherwise ran well.
Took the car for a test ride around the neighborhood and brought it home. The alternator belt would squeal when the A/C compressor would kick on, telling me the alternator belt needed additional tightening.
Day 2: Start the car and verify coolant is topped off, engine is idling slow (about 450 rpm) but otherwise running ok. I do notice throttle response had a slight off-idle cough, but car has good power and pulls strong.
Then the 'check engine' and VSC warning lights come on at the dash..
I borrow my Brother-in-law's OBDII meter and read "P0016 Crankshaft-Camshaft correlation, Bank1" error code.
$&^%!
Tearing everything apart again, I find the rear camshaft is one tooth counter-clockwise from the timing mark on the cover with all other marks aligned. I hypothesize that when we let the tensioner go, it rolled the rear camshaft backwards by one tooth as it pulled the tension between the cam gears taught. We did check this, but at 0300 hrs, we were probably seeing what we wanted to.
I took pictures if anyone is interested. I can answer any questions and give pointers for anyone interested on tackling this task.
I bought the parts for $280, including Belt, tensioner, water pump, 2 gallons Toyota special 50/50 mix coolant, 2 drive belts, (power steering and alternator/AC)
Lexus of Austin quoted me $965 to do the 90k Mile service which would have also included cam and crankshaft seal replacement.

HtownBlue

I've done this job several times, and there is a method to placing the timing belt on in which it prevents the rear cam from jumping a tooth or becoming one tooth off. You have to start placing it around the pulleys etc. going in a COUNTER CLOCKWISE manner starting at the crank and moving up. You were correct in using a mirror, but use a pair of need nose VICE pliers to hold the rear pulley / belt in line until you pull the pin on the tensioner.

The gasket for the water pump can be placed on using a VERY small amount of silicone just to keep it in place. The pump can be slid under the cover by rotating it just slightly counter clockwise and moving it upwards until you've gotten it underneath then rotating it to proper bolt hole alignment.
The alternator belt can actually be easily adjusted via the adjustment bolts by using extensions and actually feeding it through the grille and side of the radiator to the adjustment bolt.

For the belt cover bolts, I found a small 1/4 drive ratchet with a small 10 mm socket is easily the best option.

For the power steering pump, you probably could have made things easier if you would have loosened the pivot bolt etc. I never had an issue with the PS pump, but every situation is different.

Doing a timing belt job is a long process for sure. Its is at least a 6 hour job, and I think the book says 6.5 hours to do. This is certainly not an amateur job. Sorry you had so much trouble friend. I've done a few and never had that much headache, but it only takes a few things to go wrong to make a job as intense as that a no fun proposition.

RX330inFL

Timing belt change at the local Toyota shop...$279.95 plus tax and shop fees.

cdnewton

You are braver than I, congrats on getting it up and running. There has to be a level of satisfaction knowing you have done it yourself.

I went with the timing belt change at an independent specializing in Lexus/Toyota ... $189.95 plus tax and shop fees. I went ahead and had them throw in a water pump and serpentine belt .... $450 plus tax and shop fees.

cjs18

I think you are to be commended on completing the job successfully despite a setback. Any automotive repair job that's 6-8 hours long is definitely non-trivial with plenty of opportunity for error. And I'm thinking that doing this job on a transverse-mounted engine is a little more difficult than one that's in line. I replaced the timing belt on my SC430 last year (3UZ-FE 4.3L V8 engine) and it was a butt-load of procedural steps. Unlike your situation, you could see everything, there was plenty of room to work and it still took me two partial days to get it done. So put the problem behind you, pat yourself on the back, sleep easier and enjoy the savings.

luvrxxx

Reading post here, touched on something I've been trying to figure out how to do properly (before breaking ice, or eh-hem, crank pulley bolt free), how to keep belt/ marks in place when tensioner's released?

Which pulley do needle nose vice grips snap on and do you use a towel on belt side (to not mar belt) please?


Thanks & take it easy!

banyan

rxpx40, thank you for sharing your experiences. I am actually planning on doing this soon on my 2005 RX330 - 97K miles right now. based on what you know now, can you share the steps that you think "should" be taken to make the process less painful? Aligning TDC is key, and I get that. from the RX300 video, looks like using tie wraps helps before releasing tensioner.

lexus114

So how`d the old belt look??

HtownBlue

Go COUNTER CLOCKWISE starting at the rear pulley when placing the new belt on and aligning them. Also you can use needle nose vice pliers with a small piece of vacuum tube / hose over the ends to secure the belt on the pulley teeth so as to prevent jumping under tension. Also, make sure and SLIGHTLY pry the tensioner up a bit AFTER releasing the pin to ensure that you give belt enough tension. If not, the new tensioner can only give medium pressure on belt which risks a tooth jump at first start. DO not pry har, just enough to add a slight bit of extra tension on belt/

is350memb

u are very brave!! my cousin got his replaced by a local mechanic for $299

RX330inFL

Sometimes it is not a money thing. Rather, it is the desire to accomplish the task by one's self. That and extreme confidence in one's skills.

salimshah

I thought I saw some where that cable ties were used to hold the belt on to the pully ... one has to make sure the slop is where the tensioner is. Neat trick.

Salim

luvrxxx

Thanks for the kind words, all makes sense...

Started yesterday. Hand made "SST" H.B. pulley holder from steel beam. Removed W.Wiper cover/ motor/ tray assembly (lot's more room); ACIS... Almost got rear manifold off - those two back bracket/ throttle body bolts, tight space, wow.

Moving toward S. plugs (IFR6T11 "4589" direct replacement to spec'd IFR6A11, per NGK); Valve covers; T-Belt; Water Pump; Rollers; Replacing cam/ pulley seals; Belts; etc.

Ordered Schley Tool #88250 for anticipated slight valve shim adjust (119,00 mile on the clock).

Well made with a lot of detail!

Understandable how a lot (and I do mean a lot) could go wrong here with all these nit picky luxury steps (i.e. sensors, hoses, wires, bolts, misaligned marks, lost hardware, too much/ little coffee, crazy women all tangled together). It'd be easier to take to a "mech" but bought Snapon ATECH 1 2 & 3 FR digital torque wrenches instead to say mightily I BROKE IT ALL BY MYSELF!!! yes.


Thanks again & take it easy....

salimshah

Post a picture of the SST tool you made.

I was planning to build one with a large adjustable wrench and drill two holes for the bolts and use the opening to pass the socket.

If you used a bar, please dimension your picture/sketch.

Salim

dbl047

yes I would like to see pics too. I got about 80K on my 06 RX400h.... and the time will come soon. I wonder how much more difficult it will be to timing belt on the hybrids.

Maybe I should pay to have it done..lol