mrclockman

Wow, I have to agree better safe than sorry in using the Toyota coolants. Here are some answers to the many questions. Prestone long life vs. Pres. Dexcool--- Carboxilate falls into the same inorganic category as potassium 2-ethylhexanoate (a carboxilate?), once again, please show me that this is not the case. If true, is there difference? This site http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_is_th...en_anti_freeze shows my thoughts that if the Lexus manual does not exclude 2-ethylhexanoate (it does not) then it should be OK. However, after a brake cylinder recall, where commercial DOT brake fluid OK in manual attacked rubber seals, they might have missed this one also. So, I will flush and use Toyota fluid. Why take the chance? Mr-C-Man

andreys

Use "goose-neck" ratchet. This is the ratchet with pivoting head. Once you get the right "combination" of angles, it is relatively easy to unsrew the rear engine drain plug.

tomit

dco5000,

Yup, that's the bracket. Remove that; finding the right combination of 3/8" extensions for the 10 mm socket to turn the drain valve was fun (not).

Tom

woodskier

Last night coming back from a soccer game noticed the temp gauge fluctuating between normal ( half ) and almost to the red. She stopped at a service station to find the resivoir tank was empty. They added about 2 qts of a yellow universal coolant ( Cheveron ) Temp went down and the car is home. We have also recently noticed the air conditionaing getting cold then going to hot. I have checked both fans and the run when the AC is on. This morning the resivoir is almost empty again and noticed after checking fans liquid on the front of the radiator.

OK , Give me the bad news. New radiator?

How muh does this cost, the car is almost 10yrs old, 200K miles, any cheaper way to go. How difficult is the repalcement for a very handy guy.?

andreys

You first need to determine what is leaking and where. The fix could be anything from loose hose connection, bad seal on the waterpump, loose drain plug to radiator.

Look under the car and try to determine where the coolant is leaking from. This would be the first step before jumping in to replace the radiator.

jdjohn

I had to replace the radiator on my girlfriend's '06 RX330 FWD, so I found this thread, and thought I would add some information based on my experience.

First, as many of you probably know, the radiators on these vehicles are known to crack at the bottom. There is a TSB about it, but that doesn't mean that a dealership will replace it for free. I think there is a range of VIN numbers for which they will do it, but I wouldn't count on it. If yours cracks (it should be the first thing you check if you encounter overheating problems) and you decide to replace it yourself, be aware when ordering your new one that there are different radiators for Japan-made versus North American-made vehicles. The first three radiators I ordered were wrong (and all looked the same), but I finally found the right one at partsgeek.com, where one brand on there distinguishes b/t Japan and NA made models and manufacture dates.

As far as draining the coolant, you will want to get some clear vinyl tubing from Home Depot (or wherever) that is about 6ft long and 3/8in. i.d. (inner diameter). 1/4in. i.d. is too small for the nipples on the drain *****. [insert Beavis and Butthead giggle] Wow...could they have chosen worse names? I would suggest draining into a plastic drain pan.

You can easily attach the tubing to the nipple before loosening the drain **** bolt, so no need to try and do some quick maneuver of attaching tubing after loosening the bolt. The bolt is supposedly 10mm, but I think it's actually a little smaller than that based on the fitment I experienced, but 10mm works. As already mentioned in previous posts, the front engine drain **** is just beside the exhaust manifold and fairly easy to reach with a standard 6in. extension. And again as already mentioned, you only have to loosen it slightly to get the fluid running; don't loosen it fully or remove it. There is not a flood of coolant, but almost a trickle, so leave it draining for awhile. And when re-tightening the drain plug bolt, don't go crazy over-torqueing; it's made of brass, and when it bottoms-out, it's done...so stop.

Okay, the rear engine drain ****: I was working on a FWD 330, so probably a little easier than the AWD version discussed in earlier posts here. On a RWD, the drain **** is right behind the power steering pump (of course on the engine block), and luckily the front axle was not in the way. Removing that right/passenger side wheel is highly recommended. As suggested in an earlier post, using a universal-joint attachment, plus extensions, you can get to the bolt plug. I have attached a pic of what I used, but basically it was two 6in. extensions, one 3in. extension, plus the u-joint. Again, you can attach the tubing to the nipple BEFORE loosening the bolt. I noticed in earlier posts some speculation as to how much coolant would come out of the rear drain, so I attached a pic showing the result...not that much...maybe a pint or pint-and-a-half.

In total, based on what I had to refill, I drained about 7qts of coolant b/t the radiator and front and rear engine block drains. Btw, for refilling, I highly recommend following the proper burping procedure.

bankmaggot

I need some help locating the front engine drain plug. Nothing after 2 hours of searching. From the pics, it looks like the drain plug is next to an oil filter? This is strange because, my 09 RX 350 uses a metal oil filter. There's nothing next to it. I found some comments that the drain plug is the same on RX 350 as on RX 330. What makes thing worse is this manual shows the location that is different than the OP?

http://workshop-manuals.com/lexus/rx...ons/page_2718/

jdjohn

It will be different on an RX350...of course the engine is different, so that stands to reason. Looking at the diagram in your link, one plug looks to be just beside the transmission fluid dipstick, and the other is sort of in the middle of the exhaust manifold. Hope this helps.

mrclockman

Very good post DCO5000. I think I was the original on this thread with a comment that I used DextronII instead of Toyota fluid, I had many replies on this for a later update. After 80,000 miles, all is well, fluid is clear.

mrclockman

I may have had one of the original posts for this thread, just a follow up after receiving quite a few responses on my decision to use Dextron II instead of the Toyota long life. Fluid change at 100,000 miles in RX330, now at 155,000 miles the fluid is clear and non-acidic. A refresher on my decision was that the chemistry seemed to be identical. Any others with more information here would be appreciated. A decision to change any fluid from recommended can result in problems, this is the only fluid I have deviated from with my Lexus, two Saabs, and a vintage Chevy, because there are chemistry differences in most cases. Lexus issues with power steering fluid on this model other than Toyota caused some problems, even though the manual OK'd a standard non-Toyota fluid and resulted in a re-call.

fastnoypi

im pretty sure you mean dexcool... dexron ii is an old ATF type.

Best of luck with your use. Lexus recommends a g-05 type coolant thats silicate and phosphate free. Prestone Dexcool contains some phosphates

Tealhues

Difficult but not impossible on my 2005 FWD. Using a swivel adapter for my socket wrench, I was able to loosen the cylinder block rear drain **** plug and tighten it up again. It's close quarters in there so if the swivel adapter needs more resistance just place an elastic band (or two, or three) around the adapter until you get the amount of resistance you require. Picture of plug shown.

Ron81

found this in walmart - Super Tech 50/50 Antifreeze/Coolant Pre-Mix - light blue in colour

does any one tried this in lexus ? should i trust it for 04 RX330 ? details below:

Extended life up to 5 years or 150,000 miles*
SuperTech Prediluted 50/50 antifreeze/coolant is recommended, compatible and formulated for use with Any antifreeze/coolant in Any make or model car or light duty truck with aluminum and other engine metals. This formula has a concentrated blend of premium long-lasting inhibitors to offer protection for up to 5 years or 150,000 miles *against temperature extremes and the ravages of rust and corrosion. When used as directed, SuperTech Prediluted 50/50 antifreeze/coolant may be added to any antifreeze/coolant of any of car or light duty truck, foreign or domestic (color may change but performance will not be affected).