Hello,

I'm in the middle of doing LCA Bushing Replacement, the RX350 BBK upgrade, and KYB Strut Replacement. So I figured now would be as good a time as any to upgrade my rack and pinion bushings to the Energy Suspension Polyurethane versions. I've searched a good deal on DIY installs but seem to only find the entire rack and pinion replacement. I've thought I heard that if your just doing the rack bushings you can do them with keeping the rack in the car. Currently, I have the driver/pass knuckle tied up and most everything else is out (Rotors, Calipers, Struts, Inner and Outer Tie Rods, LCA's, Ball Joints) creating a lot of room. Any advice on doing the bushings leaving the rack in the car? Do I need to disconnect the steering linkage, or drop the subframe, Or? Is it as simple as removing the two bolts and pulling the bushings out? Any DIY's, Pics, or advice that would help would greatly be appreciated. Thanks

 

At the minimum you need to disconnect the steering shaft from the rack, and it's usually stuck good so you'll probably have to use an air hammer to get it off. I found it was too much of a PITA to do it in the car so I took the whole rack out. The bushings are hard to get out, you'll need a pickle fork or something to bend them until they press out. No need to drop subframe thankfully, but if you're pulling the rack out I'd do the 2010-2015 RX350 / 2008-2019 Highlander 26mm front sway bar too, and make sure you get an AWD one if your car is an AWD because the FWD one will contact the transfer case. This is a MAJOR upgrade, much better than the rack bushings IMO. You'll need 07-09 ES350 front end links as well to make it fit. Lots of heat on those sway bar bushing bolts as they are STUCK too

Procedure is the same on a 2001-2007 Highlander
https://www.toyotanation.com/threads...3#post-7725433

 

Thanks again for the information, Matt.

When reinstalling the Rack and SB (went with the 26MM AWD 3G RX350) back into the vehicle what should be installed first? When I removed them I tried for the longest time to take the SB out first but the only way I could seem to get them out was to remove the SB halfway and then the rack halfway and then finish pulling them out together, I know weird. I never lowered the subframe either. Any help would be much appreciated, then after these I can start putting on all my new parts, 555 components (In/Out Ties, Ball J) Pressed Front LCA w/Superpro Poly Bush (OFFSET variant, each side pointing towards vehicle) in both front of LCA, KYBs on oem springs, F/R SB bushings, F/R endlinks and the RX350 BBK (front/rear) w/stainless lines front/rear. I'm hoping it will ride better. But I just need to get this dang front SB and Rack in first. Also, I've already done the HighLander Power steering pressure valve upgrade.

Thanks in advanced!

 

Nice 555 parts and everything RX is getting the treatment! Good work! It'll definitely ride good, mine on coilovers rides better than my 2014 RX even though it's on Bilsteins. Had to take the entire rack out to get the sway bar out. I also took out the driver front strut and rear engine mount (rubber block pad on pass side near PS pump) to gain more clearance. Engine mount is optional but helps wiggle room to get the bar out. You're going to LOVE the 3rd gen bar + 2007-2009 Lexus ES350 end links (they have the link on same side to allow wider bar fitment). It reduces body roll big time up front but doesn't induce any more understeer despite being 3mm larger than stock, probably because it helps keep the camber in check in corners, allowing for more grip. Might be worth doing the high pressure rack line as well if it's leaking, that's usually the first one to go out on these cars but it's usually always a small seep.

I also converted my car to a solid steering shaft by using an RX400h intermediate shaft and a 1992-2002 Corolla steering joint / coupler. This gave even more feedback to the steering, similar to the bushings

Another good upgrade is 2004-2007 Highlander 16mm rear sway bar vs. the stock 14mm rear, that cost me about 15 bucks at the junkyard and held me off until I put a massive rear bar on. Sport package RX already comes with the same 16mm but those are rare.

You can slightly lower the subframe without removal if you need more wiggle room, but with the above done I actually had a decent amount of room to wiggle the rack and bar out.

 

Thanks for the advice, I just got the SB in and now I'll attempt the Rack. When you state high pressure rack line, are you talking about one of the two lines that stay attached to the rack or are you talking the one of the lines that go to the PS fluid tank? If it is the High Pressure from the PS Fluid Res, Can I use a some bulk High Temp rubber hose or is it something special that should be ordered?

I attached a pic of one of the LCA SuperPro Bush (OFFSET Bush) It was explained that using the OFFSET bush wouldn't hurt anything like abnormal tire wear, but would help in more tread on the ground in corners. When reassembling the project I have MagnaCam bolts upto 1.50 adj (I think) for the top strut to knuckle bolt on each side.

Apologies for all the questions. I did read your suspension guide, great info.

Thanks again,

 

Good stuff

The lines (return and suction) on the res are low pressure and you can just use off the shelf stuff on that, but the high pressure skinnier line has a big hydraulic fitting and it's the one that's long and goes on top of the rack and mounts to the pump with the big banjo bolt. Mine's leaking but I haven't gotten around to changing it yet. The res lines are normal power steering hose / transmission oil cooler hoses would work great, I believe one is 3/8" ID and the other is 5/8" ID

Nice job getting those bushings in! I need to do mine still. How was getting them out and back in? Did the bowtie one give you any problems? Those offset bushings should give you a good 0.5-1 degree of positive caster up front which our RXs are lacking from the factory. We only get about 2.5-3 degrees of positive caster, so any more is appreciated. The negative camber will make a nice difference too, I run -1.5 on mine and it is the sweet spot of comfort and better handling on these. You should notice some slightly heavier steering, wheel returning to center a little faster and a bit more camber gain in a corner from those caster bushings, along with WAY less deflection because of the poly bushings vs. the jello 60a rubber ones we get stock

That thing is going to be dialed in!

 

Appreciate the help.

on the LCA Bushings, the bowtie was the most tedious/time consuming. With the SuperPro bowtie bushing they only sell the bushing so you have to take you old bushing and burn, grind, buff all the fused rubber off and then push them in. After that it's just simple Shop Press stuff (not one of them gave me a problem pressing in/out and I only have a simple 20 Ton Harbor Freight Press.

 

Awesome good to know, appreciate the tips! I have access to a 20 ton press as well so I plan on getting on it soon!