Good morning, evening, whatever time it is you're reading this.

My 2008 RX350 is currently at 199,6xx miles. For the big 200, I plan on doing some extensive maintenance to ensure I have the best chance at reaching another 200 without any problems. I heard the 2GR in these early years of the RX350 can cause problems, mainly with some sort of clatter upon a cold start up. I do experience this. If I recall, I didn't notice or it didn't exist until probably 6 months ago. I've had the car since last April and I don't remember any start up noises. I know it's due for an oil change, just waiting for a nice day to get it done ha. Not sure what oil the dealer put in it last time. Probably just standard stuff, since it was a complementary service. Think doing full synthetic will solve the start up noise? Some folks also say using an OEM filter solves the problem.

Also going to take care the engine filter, cabin filter, spark plugs, and transmission fluid. I'm going to have my brakes checked; it stops fine but recently I've heard a bit of squeaking. Maybe it's the rain? At worst probably just needs new discs and pads. Pretty cheap and I can do it myself although I'd prefer to not have to do all 4 brakes at once, so I'll have them checked.

What about tires? Is it worth it to go up to a 70 sidewall over the standard 65? I realize this will have an effect on the odometer but what will it be over say a 50,000 mile span? Revs per mile with a 225/70R17 is 686 and revs per mile with a 225 65R17 is 707, if that helps.

I also want to look at suspension. It rides fine, I don't think there's any problems other than just wear. Don't think anything's been replaced ever. I'll take this to a few shops for a thorough inspection in case one is lying. If there are no immediate problems, what should I have replaced regarding suspension that won't cost a fortune? I also noticed that, similar to ride quality, everyone has a different idea for the best OEM equivalent strut. If I need new struts, should I just order through a Lexus dealer, find something like KYB online, or what should I do? I want that classic Lexus ride where I won't feel a slight bump in the road.

There are a few cosmetic problems that I plan on tackling: burnt out needles on gauge cluster, heavily faded driver arm rest, need a new visor, my cargo rack is missing a black piece, and I'd like to get some scratches out of the paint. I just learned it's bamboo pearl metallic. It looked absolutely amazing when it was cleaned up nicely last summer and I plan on restoring it to that. It looks like it's different colors at certain angles. Also, I cleaned up the headlights with some baking soda and lemon juice. Got 90% of the junk off. Probably will get some Armor All headlight restoration kit to finish them.

Overall I love the car. No complaints at all. Love the dark wood with the light interior. I use regular fuel and haven't had any issues. If I get an extra 2 HP out of using premium, great but this isn't a race car.

If anybody has any suggestions regarding any of this or new ideas altogether, I'd love to hear them. Thank you.

 

Most of what you're asking has been covered recently and oftenuse the "search" function as with any forum.
Brakes - discs and pads are not expensive and are quite easy to do, be sure to spray out the pucks, relube the pins, and replace the fluid. that can be done in under 2 or 3 hours no problem.
Replace the timing belt
Replace drive belts
Suspension will be in need of a lot if it has not already been done, and yes it will be costly and/or require a lot of labor hours pucker up (struts, LCA's, ball joints, sway bar links, tie rod ends, alignment, be prepared to drop a easily $3K or more just doing these)
Plug replacement will be costly also requiring @ 7 hours to do the rears fronts can be done in well under 30 mins
Thoroughly check your radiator, it is likely in need of replacement - use only an OEM or Koyorad never the cheaper aftermarket ones.
Lots of little bits on engine will need love at 200K miles but once addressed you should be good for quite awhile
Never go through a dealer for anything on any car past warranty unless your goal is to pay for the upkeep of thier lovely marble floors and cappachino machines. If you were to get your suspension work done at a dealer I'd gues it would cost $6-8K for parts and labor (struts, LCA's, ball joints, tie rods, sawy bar links). If money is no issue have at it otherwise doo a search, read up, learn, lots of info here

Keep in mind that you got this many miles at very little cost, spending money now is still better than 5 months of car payments at least that's how I justify my spending/upkeep

Headlights - save yourself time, headache, and money get "Cera-Kote headlight kit" from Amazon or Walmart, costs is $16 works amazing and lasts unlike most others including your baking soda idea

 

7 hours to do the back 3 spark plugs?? I've never heard of such a thing.

What about the tires? Think it's recommended to go to a 70 sidewall over a 65, even though it would throw the speedo/tach off?

 

I took me an entire weekend to do the back 3 spark plugs and coils back in 2018. It was a royal pain in the *** but if i had to do it again i could probably knock it out in a day. From what i remember i got snagged by a seized up windshield wiper arm bolt thing that i had to go to the store and buy some kind of puller tool to get it off. you also need to make sure you have a specific kind of offset box wrench to reach two annoying bolts that hold the plastic intake manifold cover on the back, and you have to do it by feel.


I personally wouldn't mess with the tire size but that's me, i'm very OCD and the speed being off would bother me to no end.

 

Do a search on this site or watch a YT video on the rear plugs, there's a lot of disassembly of the top of engine and back of firewall to access those plugs plus if you're smart you'll address a lot of other bits that dealers and most garages won't do. Today it would likely take me under 4 hours first time will be @ 7 hours. As "Evident" stated there are two hidden 10MM bolts that are really rough to get to I was able to reach them wtiha regualr combo wrench fortunately. If you're not a good, competent DIY'er don't attempt this yourself not for the faint of heart or disorganized wrenchers.
"Recommended" tire size is stated in the owners manual not sure that you're asking

 

Chances are it's had some work done at that mileage, hoping.

I cleaned and redyed my seats a few years ago and they came out like new.
I posted pics and what I used but I'll have to try and find them, if I can. lol

Bad news is they need done again cuz I kinda neglected them.

That's what I'm thinking.
I can afford to put me in a low mileage JDM engine and still be way ahead.

Have you all seen the prices on the new cars?

First time doing the back bank was horrible, awful. lol
I've been back in there so many times now I can be in and out in an hour if I want.

The RX330 has an advantage to the 2GR.
With the right micro ratchet and sockets pull the #1 AND the #5 cylinder plugs without removing the manifold.

It's very tight but can be done.

 

Deleted double postt, oops.

 

Looks like it'll be going to the shop. Will call around and determine best price. I don't want to screw something up and seeing as how top quality plugs can easily go past 100k miles, a few hundred dollars (hoping that's all) isn't a bad deal. I'm not a huge DIY person. I don't even know if I'll do brakes myself LOL.

Appreciate all the help. Regarding tires, maybe I'll just stick with the OEM size of 225 65/17. I don't like the idea of the speedo/odometer off either, at least more than it already is. Think it's off by like 2 mph when I pass by speed traps.

Going to get my hands dirty and thoroughly clean/detail the inside. Then I want to restore the outside because that color, bamboo pearl metallic, is gorgeous. Doesn't look the best when it's been neglected and not shined up, but when it has been properly cared for, wow!

If there's anything else I can think of, and I'm sure there will be some in the coming weeks, I will add to this thread. I love this vehicle and everything it offers.

 

Also check your passenger side steering boot. Is it ripped and is there fluid leaking? Also see if you have coolant leaking. Water pump may be bad. Those are two big ticket items that are weak spots for this car.

Also make sure you have the metal vvti hose and metal oil cooler, two different parts that have catastrophic consequences when they fail.

 

Okay, I appreciate that. I will make note of it and search the forum for the best way to tackle these issues.

Do you feel the 3MZ is more reliable without major issues than the 2GR? The extra power is nice but I'm not so sure I'd rather have that over top reliability if that's indeed the case regarding the engines.

 

I created an account on Lexus and began searching the service history of this car. On New Years 2010, this entry is listed along with some vehicle inspection and spare tire that was low:

SERVICE: REPLACE VVT-I OIL HOSE. OP CODE 9609KB
DESCRIPTION:~|~REPLACE VVT-I OIL HOSE. OP CODE 9609KB ~|~9LH

I've only began searching for 10 seconds on what this means, but it seems like they at least saw it was an issue at low-mileage and fixed the problem. If I have it straight, the original part was all rubber and a weak one at that. The replacement was still rubber but stronger. The 2010+ RX all came with metal?

Wonder if they did the metal oil cooler down the road. Interesting to find out...

 

mine is an 07 and both pieces were replaced by metal.

And the 2gr is super reliable. Just those things that we pointed out are the major sticklers. And my boot was torn but no sign of leak. I could have kept going with it but i figured it was time. I think it's literally been like that for 10 years lol

 

I like the 1MZ-FE in my 2002 Highlander and it has held up phenomenally in the 18 years we've had it, but I would take a 2GR any day even though the 1MZ/3MZ is physically smaller and easier to do valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, coils and alternator on. They're easier to find used, find parts for and have a way better torque curve. The difference between these two engines is a kind of slow car (~8.3 0-60 mph) to being faster than most mid-size SUVs incl the new RXs (except RX500h although without all the hybrid BS) even in 2024 (~6.7 0-60 mph). My 2GR just purrs along and gets me better mileage as passing people is effortless, especially on the highway which is where you'll really appreciate the extra 60 horses and not having to drop a gear or two to do so. Not having to do a timing belt is a nice bonus too.

Some early 2010 RX came with rubber still, but by late 2011 / early 2012 most cars were full metal for the oil cooler and VVT-i hoses on the RX350 and RX450h. I have some comparison pics in my 2nd gen RX DIY post. Like others said, I'd clean throttle body, MAF and hose out air filter box. The KYB struts give a firmer ride than the stock RX struts, but if you want something softer the Sachs/TRW stuff is nice quality as well and is more plush like the OEM stuff. Tokico makes the OEM struts for these, but I don't think they offer them aftermarket. The KYB struts ride more like the KYB stuff you'd see on a Highlander, which mine had from the factory. It's a little firmer and handles better, but it doesn't sacrifice a lot of comfort.

 

As you are approaching 200K, also consider replacing the cooling fans + shroud in front of the radiator, if these are still the original. Both my 04 RX330 and 03 Camry benefitted from the cooling fan replacement -- A/C at idle would often not operate until the tired cooling fans were replaced. The coolant temp needle on both cars is now rock solid stable in all conditions.

If you are tackling the rear spark plugs, cleaning the throttle body from both sides and replacing the TB gasket, plenum gasket, and intake manifold gasket is a must. PCV valve is also much more accessible and cheap to replace. As mentioned, replacing the valve cover gaskets for both banks (the rear is a bit of a pain) may be worthwhile, especially if you see valve cover leaks.

 

So I’m having a real problem trying to find OEM 17 inch wheels from this generation RX, at least for a price that I find reasonable. I particularly like the six spoke design, although I am unsure how many 17 inch wheel options Lexus released during the six years.

I saw a wheel that I really like that happens to be on a 2013 Highlander. Will it cause any problems? I don’t know much about wheels and how they fit certain vehicles so any help would be nice.