Rear End Bump When Braking
Ok. I've searched and reviewed all the "bump, clunk" noise threads.
While some are similar, I feel this is different enough to create a new post.
If it is covered and I missed it, apologies.
When stopping, I'll be almost at a stop, but then it bumps kind of hard like the rear brakes aren't locking up at the same time.
The bump is noticeably in the rear of the car. Almost like a delayed rear bumper kick up when stopping.
I may be soft pedaling the brakes, but never been an issue before. If I press the brakes hard it doesn't seem to do it.
But I'll check on that scenario again this morning.
Is this possibly a rear sway bushing issue or something not engaging right in the transfer case or rear diff?
I will change fluid on transfer case, due anyway.
I changed the rear diff last spring when I replaced the breather valve on top of the rear diff.
I looked and while it looks damp, there are no drips. It always looked damp before and was never low.
@MattRX
While some are similar, I feel this is different enough to create a new post.
If it is covered and I missed it, apologies.
When stopping, I'll be almost at a stop, but then it bumps kind of hard like the rear brakes aren't locking up at the same time.
The bump is noticeably in the rear of the car. Almost like a delayed rear bumper kick up when stopping.
I may be soft pedaling the brakes, but never been an issue before. If I press the brakes hard it doesn't seem to do it.
But I'll check on that scenario again this morning.
Is this possibly a rear sway bushing issue or something not engaging right in the transfer case or rear diff?
I will change fluid on transfer case, due anyway.
I changed the rear diff last spring when I replaced the breather valve on top of the rear diff.
I looked and while it looks damp, there are no drips. It always looked damp before and was never low.
@MattRX
I would see what the two huge circular bushings that hold the diff case to the subframe look like as well. Not common for these to fail, but someone on the Highlander forums had one go bad and he was getting a “bump” in the back when braking as well.
Thanks Matt.
I'll give it a look.
I just cleaned and greased rear slide pins.
The wheel was hard to rotate with both rear wheels in the air.
I think I had the parking brake over adjusted.
I don't really use it so I backed it way off and it seemed to take care of it.
I will know more after I go to work in a few hours.
I did notice the rear sway bar rattles around when I shake it. The links are only a year old, but the bushings are shot.
I'll give those a go as well.
I'll give it a look.
I just cleaned and greased rear slide pins.
The wheel was hard to rotate with both rear wheels in the air.
I think I had the parking brake over adjusted.
I don't really use it so I backed it way off and it seemed to take care of it.
I will know more after I go to work in a few hours.
I did notice the rear sway bar rattles around when I shake it. The links are only a year old, but the bushings are shot.
I'll give those a go as well.
If you can twist or move the sway bar links at all then they are shot. Also take a look at the rubber bellows at the ends if the rubber is torn or you see any grease on them they're gone... being a year old doesn't really matter there are many aftermarket co's putting out substandard quality not unheard of at all that they could need replacing after only a years time. While there also look at the sway bar bushings those are very cheap to replace should be a wear item replaced every 100K miles even OEM bushings are only @ $25.
If you do find yourself wanting to replace your rear sway bar links see Matt's suggestion on using Ford replacements, far stronger and cost me $21/ea from Amazon
If you do find yourself wanting to replace your rear sway bar links see Matt's suggestion on using Ford replacements, far stronger and cost me $21/ea from Amazon
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