we have over 200k on this so far so we thought it would be a good idea to do the spark plugs and valve cover gaskets. When we had the intake manifold off we took the IAC off to make sure it had movement as my daughter told me it will die when starting sometimes which would indicate a problem with the IAC. We only took the outer cover off and got 2 new screws( as everyone knows) the magnet was free and could move around fine so we put the cover back on and finished with the spark plugs, gaskets etc. At first the idle was low then after a few minutes would go up to 2-3 k and at times would fluctuate between 1-3 k even in gear.

I was thinking about installing a new IAC but want to see if anyone has something to look at first.

Thanks in advance

 

I would go over the work done and look for dangling hoses, pinched wires etc. IACV service includes cleaning out passage ways along with confirming the slug can spin freely. A member listed the movement range of the slug. Also make sure the gaskets were replaced and nothing is missing.

You should expect the new learning when the IACV is serviced or replaced, and it should slowly move towards the new normal, but it should not be fluctuating wildly.

I have learned not to combine many service items as debug is harder if things go wrong.

Salim

 

Appreciate the reply,

Since we only took the cover off do not think there are any gaskets to look at. We did take the intake off but used a new gasket, so it may be leaking. I am going to take the cover off again and spray some carb cleaner down the spout today and move the slug more and see if that helps. will look for hoses as well...................there are quite a few.

My thought is when I moved the slug there may have been some debris moved around and a good cleaning may help. I have only sprayed carb cleaner down the spout a few years ago because I could not get those stupid screws off. BTW we changed from Phillips to torque screws hoping it will last longer.

 

ok so I took the cover of the IAC and sprayed the passageway and moved the slug around for around 5 minutes or so and sprayed the heck through the passage. put the hose back on and everything else and started up around 1k for a few minutes then came down with no issues. Drove it around and seems to be doing fine. My daughter will keep me updated and instructed how to drive with the high idle if needed. I will start looking for changing the trans filter etc now...................yes it has never been done yet. I am so ashamed but it still runs good.

 

Glad you were able to fix the problem and what you experienced this time is what is expected ... ecu working its way to the new normal.

For tranmission, only do drain and fill. If you want to do more .... then do 2 or 3 drain and fills with 100 or so miles of driving. Get a torque wrench to secure pan. See if you can get a gasket or else you will have to use FIPg. Decide what you are going to do with the filter. Mine had a screen which I reused after using brake cleaner and plenty of drying time. Element or screen discussion is in the forum [please use search].

Salim

 

Thanks for the info.
Since I have never changed the fluid or filter we may go with getting replacements and see what happens. I believe the torque on the pan bolts is 80lbs..........which seems a bit high but will validate. I have seen where some folks have drained and refilled the fluid every 15k or even every oil change. I may begin a similar regiment to see how long it will go. I have heard from several people not to get a flush on the trans as there can be lots of debris spread around and can block some entries.

I feel it is good for another 100k but the main seal may need to be replaced soon but will keep an eye on the oil levels after we replaced the valve cover gaskets.

I do have a question regarding the brackets in the back of the engine. we were able to attach one of them but the one on the drivers side is not mounted to the lower part of the engine. How important are these things? We will take a look at it when we have the car up and see if we can reattach again. These things were a PITA just to get off.

 

[QUOTE=redeye1962;11009204]Thanks for the info.
Since I have never changed the fluid or filter we may go with getting replacements and see what happens. I believe the torque on the pan bolts is 80lbs..........which seems a bit high but will validate.

INCH lbs, not foot lbs...my Haynes manual says 67 inch-pounds. For sure, you would shear all the bolts at 80 ft lbs.

 

[QUOTE=ricco750;11009214]that makes more sense. Thanks

 

Sorry, I have no info on this. Are you trying to lift the engine out? There are members who have done this and hopefully they will answer.

Salim

 

update...........we were able to change the trans fluid which was not bad. the magnets were packed with very fine metal and the filter was.....................well very ugly. it seems to drive fine and shifts better or so my head is telling me. I think it is for the best what we have done. we may need to change the motor mounts but nothing serious yet. just want this thing to last a few more years for my daughter. Thanks for everyone's help.