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Not sure what makes Lexus/Toyota seal any better or worse. I have a bias that they are 'good-enough', but replacing them is a no brainer at a cost of less than 50, when a much bigger job is underway.
Talking about extra work, I guess you now have to flush the lines and cooler as well as torque convertor.
For general reader, do keep the running total on costs and instead of labor rates just number of hours you put in. I suspect for a typical Lexus owner, it will turn out that they are better off walking away then undertaking the job [other than time and skill, this job requires facility to do the job].
I'm replacing both alternator and AC compressor. Otherwise the compressor would have been plugged. Both work, but compressor is getting loose. Easy to do now. No fun once a compressor grenades.
At 210k miles completed a major service that included a new driveshaft, front halfshafts and wheel bearings. Maybe get amother 100k out of her?
I'm replacing both alternator and AC compressor. Otherwise the compressor would have been plugged. Both work, but compressor is getting loose. Easy to do now. No fun once a compressor grenades.
At 210k miles completed a major service that included a new driveshaft, front halfshafts and wheel bearings. Maybe get amother 100k out of her?
I've got 340K miles on mine. Original engine, transmission, driveshafts, bearings.
I just bought a pair of tires, I want another 100K miles
Not sure what makes Lexus/Toyota seal any better or worse. I have a bias that they are 'good-enough', but replacing them is a no brainer at a cost of less than 50, when a much bigger job is underway.
Talking about extra work, I guess you now have to flush the lines and cooler as well as torque convertor.
For general reader, do keep the running total on costs and instead of labor rates just number of hours you put in. I suspect for a typical Lexus owner, it will turn out that they are better off walking away then undertaking the job [other than time and skill, this job requires facility to do the job].
Salim
Quite agree on "walking off." That said, I have both skills and facilities. And necessary tools.
The cooler and hard lines will get flushed. Replacing flex lines. The converter was included with the JDN transmission. I'll be pulling the JDM pan and changing out the filter and rear trans cover. Get a look if any crap coming unglued? Probably should have already done this...but.
Have new Toyota rear main seal 90311a0027, and a seal carrier gasket. Using Yamabond 4 for sealant. Looking for a 5 1/4" seal driver. Something here will work as a driver.
No idea re time invested. Very good idea on cost of parts. I'm replacing a lot more than is required for trans R&R. Spent considerable time figuring out exactly what to remove to cleanly pull the cradle. Simple enough, just tedious. Do it again in half the time.
Be interesting to get into the JDM trannie. Gotta change out the solenoid harness.
Cheers, and thanks for your information! Feel free to add to it. Sometimes, not knowing the little things makes life complicated. The below pic shows the JDM plug damage. They ripped the lock off the connector. Nasty thing outside...very clean in seal areas.
I'm using Yamabond 4 on the rear trans cover. Seems appropriate?
Last edited by PorchDawg; Feb 14, 2023 at 08:00 PM.
Reason: Spelling
And the saga moves along, pulled all USA parts from my expired U140f and set about converting the JDM to work in my RX.
Found the JDM very clean inside. No sign of issues. Also found the pan bent, so swapping that. No contact with the filter or valve body.
FWIW, the solenoid harness can easily be R&R'ed without pulling the valve body.
The dipstick tube, shift linkage, vent hose assy, rear trans cover, must be swapped. The Seller, JDM Dallas, said the both road speed and turbine speed sensor must be changed. They appear to be identical. Also the shift position switch is identical. I used the JDM switch due to fewer miles.
spent a good bit of time cleaning the rear case and cover. The rear cover must be swapped as the motor mounts are different. The transmission is about completed. Now to get onto the engine...nothing complex, just tedious.
A common motor stand works great for a teanny stand. Limits the front pump...but? I'm changing the front pump/converter seal as the converter was loosely secured in place while shipping halfway around the world.
Well. Life is good. Have about 100 miles on the RX and so far, so good. Thought I had a small oil leak, but the oil is left from spilling into subframe.
Shifting well. No codes, No problems.
I'm in the front of the "bathtub" failure graph. Used this on aircraft remaned parts. If they don't fail early on in break-in, the bottom of the graph is good to get into. New stuff will fail at the most inopportune times.
Glad to have the RX back. Been driving a Chevy Cobalt ... cute, but less than ideal.
Thought a few might wish to followup on the transmission saga, so here goes.
Excellent outcome. ZERO issues with the transmission or any drive train elements.
I have one recommendation for anyone installing a rebuilt or another U140e/f. Have the ECM flashed. That will make a huge difference in shift quality. Unsure of typical cost, my dealer performed the flash at no charge...along with a 4 wheel alignment which I did pay for. We bought the car from Hendricks Lexus in Charlotte and they have always been reasonable and offered quality work.
Same this time. The old RX feels like a new car. Sounds like a new car, and shifts better than a new car.
Prior to the flash, it shifted OK, but, it would drop into lockup at 51 mph...period. it didn't sense TPS input. 3/4 upshift was occasionally a bit harsh. Other than than, it worked OK.
After the flash, it's shifting at appropriate speeds and modulated by the throttle position.
JDM transmissions for Toyota serms a serious value for those that have the skillset to install.
Recently started hearing a gurgling sound from the R footwell area. Found the radiator a quart low. Unsure where the water went, but found the overflow tank cap dislodged. Refilled and secured the cap and the gurgling sound went away. Never anything dripping other than the AC drain. Will watch that. No change in operating temps. We shall see.
Cheers!
Posted this diatribe to the wrong thread...so
we try again.
Thought a few might wish to followup on the RX300 transmission saga, so here goes.
Excellent outcome. ZERO issues with the transmission or any drive train elements.
I have one recommendation for anyone installing a rebuilt or another U140e/f. Have the ECM flashed. That will make a huge difference in shift quality. Unsure of typical cost, my dealer performed the flash at no charge...along with a 4 wheel alignment which I did pay for. We bought the car from Hendricks Lexus in Charlotte and they have always been reasonable and offered quality work.
Same this time. The old RX feels like a new car. Sounds like a new car, and shifts better than a new car.
Prior to the flash, it shifted OK, but, it would drop into lockup at 51 mph...period. it didn't sense TPS input. 3/4 upshift was occasionally a bit harsh. Other than than, it worked OK.
After the flash, it's shifting at appropriate speeds and modulated by the throttle position.
JDM transmissions for Toyota seems a serious value for those that have the skillset to install.
Recently started hearing a gurgling sound from the R footwell area. Found the radiator a quart low. Unsure where the water went, but found the overflow tank cap dislodged. Refilled and secured the cap and the gurgling sound went away. Never anything dripping other than the AC drain. Will watch that. No change in operating temps. We shall see.
Cheers! Edit Quote
