front suspension
Thread Starter
Pit Crew
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 234
Likes: 6
front suspension
Since I have a clunking strut mount on my front passenger side I've been told that I might as well replace the strut since I'm at 140K and my struts have never been replaced.
I have also been told that I shouldn't do just one strut and that I should do the front driver side strut as well to keep it even. Otherwise the car will sit wonky.
My question is, should I replace all 4 struts or just the front 2?
I am just trying to do the bare minimum until next September and then sell it or trade it in.
Suggestions please?
I have also been told that I shouldn't do just one strut and that I should do the front driver side strut as well to keep it even. Otherwise the car will sit wonky.
My question is, should I replace all 4 struts or just the front 2?
I am just trying to do the bare minimum until next September and then sell it or trade it in.
Suggestions please?
Racer
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,567
Likes: 87
From: NJ
if you are doing the work yourself, you can confirm the strut mount by removing the strut and compressing the spring. If there is slop with the strut mount without load from the top spring seat..then it is the strut mount. If you remove the strut mount and spring completely AND you are able to push the strut rod down easily..then the strut is blown...which can cause the clunk on bumps. Another possibility, is the spring was possibly not compressed enough when torquing down the top strut mount. If it were the case, the top strut mount nut backed out and is giving room for the strut mount to clunk.
As cargu07 mentioned..check the swaybar end links, it would be the easiest to check first before pulling the struts.
As cargu07 mentioned..check the swaybar end links, it would be the easiest to check first before pulling the struts.
Thread Starter
Pit Crew
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 234
Likes: 6
I took it to a Lexus dealership and they diagnosed that it's the strut mount. Should I not trust that diagnoses? It's a deep sounding clunk that sounds like it's coming from the top of my car on the passenger side. I usually hear it when I am going over small bumps at lower speed. Especially speed bumps in parking lots.
After looking up info on the sway bar links, it looks like this could be the cause of the clunks as well.
Do we have a how to guide on replacing the sway bar links? Then I would have to get an alignment again, right?
After looking up info on the sway bar links, it looks like this could be the cause of the clunks as well.
Do we have a how to guide on replacing the sway bar links? Then I would have to get an alignment again, right?
Pole Position
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 237
Likes: 3
From: WV
I'm not sure I'd bother with the sway bar bushings if you are getting rid of it next Sept. I had my struts/mounts replaced at somewhere in the 180k range and didn't bother with the bushings. They seemed fine and I didn't notice anything untoward afterwards. They were replaced when the front end was apart at 200k to do the control arm, ball joint, etc.
I couldn't find after market bushings. I had to use dealer at a cost of $15 a pop (if I remember correctly). If you aren't noticing drift on the highway, you may be able to get away with not replacing them. All you would have to do is pop the tire off and loosen the lower link bolt to get at the bushing bracket/bushing, so it isn't too much work if you want to try to pass it on to the next owner.
If you do them, spray the bolts with lubricant so they loosen up. The bushings have a slit in them, so they just pop off. The rearmost bolt is a pain to get to. A 1/4" drive with a short knuckle extension did the trick. It wasn't solidly on the head, but enough to get it out and tightened.
I couldn't find after market bushings. I had to use dealer at a cost of $15 a pop (if I remember correctly). If you aren't noticing drift on the highway, you may be able to get away with not replacing them. All you would have to do is pop the tire off and loosen the lower link bolt to get at the bushing bracket/bushing, so it isn't too much work if you want to try to pass it on to the next owner.
If you do them, spray the bolts with lubricant so they loosen up. The bushings have a slit in them, so they just pop off. The rearmost bolt is a pain to get to. A 1/4" drive with a short knuckle extension did the trick. It wasn't solidly on the head, but enough to get it out and tightened.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,567
Likes: 87
From: NJ
If i recall, use a 14mm open end wrench and a 5mm hex key to keep the endlink from spinning. repeat for the other end of the endlink connected to the swaybar. When installing, torque to 29 ft/lb per FSM.
As mentioned, non alignment necessary.
Last edited by fastnoypi; Oct 29, 2015 at 04:43 AM.
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CL Community Team
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 16,603
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From: Austin, TX
Maybe some one can post how to put things together too. Suspension parts usually require loaded (laden) position before parts are tightened. Lot of shade tree mechanics and DIYers dont know this and once the vehicle is taken of jacks the things are under stress and the component life is shortened.
Buy the service manual if you are serious about DIYing
Salim
Buy the service manual if you are serious about DIYing
Salim
Last edited by salimshah; Oct 29, 2015 at 10:26 AM.
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Pole Position
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 237
Likes: 3
From: WV
Maybe some one can post how to put things together too. Suspension parts usually require loaded (laden) position before parts are tightened. Lot of shade tree mechanics and DIYers dont know this and once the vehicle is taken of jacks the things are under stress and the component life is shortened.
Buy the service manual if you are serious about DIYing
Salim
Buy the service manual if you are serious about DIYing
Salim
Pole Position
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 237
Likes: 3
From: WV
It's not weight that is so important but position. Using the vehicle's weight to get these parts into a "starting" position is the goal. I just can't think of any suspension part on this model RX for which that would apply. They either mount metal to metal or are a ball joint. In these scenarios & depending on the part, putting weight on before torquing would quite possibly result in an under-torqued/loose suspension part, as the weight against a bolt would give a false reading.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,567
Likes: 87
From: NJ
i outlined the basics of how to diy front swaybar bushings on post #7 Here is a link with more visual pictures if needed from toyota nation.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...end-links.html
If you have access to an impact wrench, you can often get lucky zipping off the old endlink nut if it is soaked in pb blaster.
There are flats on the backside of the endlink to be able to fit a cone wrench if necessary to keep the center of the endlink from spinning as an alternative to using a hex key.
To replace the swaybar bushings, i would consider unbolting the swaybar links from their strut mounting points then loosen/remove the swaybar mounts and replace the bushings. Then tighten everything in reverse order.
.....
On strut installation, Lexmex has a pretty good comprehensive write up in the stickys.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...end-links.html
If you have access to an impact wrench, you can often get lucky zipping off the old endlink nut if it is soaked in pb blaster.
There are flats on the backside of the endlink to be able to fit a cone wrench if necessary to keep the center of the endlink from spinning as an alternative to using a hex key.
To replace the swaybar bushings, i would consider unbolting the swaybar links from their strut mounting points then loosen/remove the swaybar mounts and replace the bushings. Then tighten everything in reverse order.
.....
On strut installation, Lexmex has a pretty good comprehensive write up in the stickys.