CV Boot Grease Leak Driver's Side
I'm heading out for a 2000 mile road trip in the morning to Chicago, and just did a quick inspection that I should have done last week when changing the oil, but held I off till last minute. (bad idea clearly)...
I spotted a greasy drivers side axle on the drivetrain side. Take a look at the video for specifics.
Do you all think it's safe to drive 2000 miles? I'm not sure I'll be able to replace it myself before leaving, and I rather not take it to a shop. I'm not sure how long it has been leaking, but it doesn't look too severe.
I've put on alot more than 2000 miles on axle boots with bigger rips and able to refurb them back to like new with an OEM boot kit.
I called my uncle (ASE certified mech.) just now and he stated the same thing, if it isn't clicking, don't worry about it.
Thanks! I'm going to clean the boot up and the excess grease, and I'll keep an eye on it during the trip.
If you plan to replace the CV (shafts) then you can do the trip. Once you hear metal to metal then you are increasing the rub/grind.
To inspect the tear, you will have to jack up and spin the wheel to expose the tear.
Salim
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I'm thinking about CARDONE SELECT Part # 665195, from RockAuto for $45. Or, I could get an OEM axle from a junkyard for $75, but I won't know how many miles are on it. I think I'm leaning towards the RockAuto solution.
As much as I always advocate for OEM parts, I can't see myself paying $600 for an OEM axle... not at 15 years old with 219,000 miles. I much rather spend that money towards new OEM engine/transmission mounts, which I plan on doing in the coming months.
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Make sure you buy new output seals for the transmission.
Salim
Last edited by salimshah; Mar 17, 2015 at 11:04 AM. Reason: forgot the key word NOT
I'm thinking about CARDONE SELECT Part # 665195, from RockAuto for $45. Or, I could get an OEM axle from a junkyard for $75, but I won't know how many miles are on it. I think I'm leaning towards the RockAuto solution.
As much as I always advocate for OEM parts, I can't see myself paying $600 for an OEM axle... not at 15 years old with 219,000 miles. I much rather spend that money towards new OEM engine/transmission mounts, which I plan on doing in the coming months.
Best of luck with the aftermarket/reman axle..especially with a lifetime guarantee.
As i mentioned in another thread, i had mixed results. One is lasting over a ton of miles and another i had a pin hole leak in the boot that showed itself after a week or so after install.
Fwiw, the one i had bad luck with was a lifetime autozone axle. Even though at the time it was $75+ with the core, i've exchanged it with no hassles and no waiting.. Apparently the stores only care if you have an axle in exchange..so if you keep the box and receipt, you can swap your other axles as they rip boots or break. Something to consider to avoid long warranty exchanges.
Make sure you buy new output seals for the transmission.
Salim
Do I need a seal puller to replace those seals? Or are they simple to R&R?
Best of luck with the aftermarket/reman axle..especially with a lifetime guarantee.
As i mentioned in another thread, i had mixed results. One is lasting over a ton of miles and another i had a pin hole leak in the boot that showed itself after a week or so after install.
Fwiw, the one i had bad luck with was a lifetime autozone axle. Even though at the time it was $75+ with the core, i've exchanged it with no hassles and no waiting.. Apparently the stores only care if you have an axle in exchange..so if you keep the box and receipt, you can swap your other axles as they rip boots or break. Something to consider to avoid long warranty exchanges.
I'm seconding guessing installing one of these.
Last edited by salimshah; Mar 17, 2015 at 11:06 AM. Reason: fixing my typo
I guess its more of a gamble on the cores they receive and who along the assembly line takes the care to put things back together.
If you have access to a junk axle you can use a junkyard axle as a core for a remanufactured exchange..and recondition, regrease and re-boot your OEM unit as a trusty spare at your leisure.
I guess its more of a gamble on the cores they receive and who along the assembly line takes the care to put things back together.
If you have access to a junk axle you can use a junkyard axle as a core for a remanufactured exchange..and recondition, regrease and re-boot your OEM unit as a trusty spare at your leisure.
Do I need to disconnect the tie rod, ball joint, and the strut? Or just the tie rod and ball joint? The service manual doesn't state to disconnect the strut.
Do I need to disconnect the tie rod, ball joint, and the strut? Or just the tie rod and ball joint? The service manual doesn't state to disconnect the strut.
edit: instructions for AWD removal found in my '99 RX service manual pdf
Removal
1) Remove cotter pin, cap and axle shaft lock nut. Raise and
support vehicle. Remove front wheel(s). Remove fender apron flap.
Drain differential fluid. Remove bolt and ABS speed sensor.
2) Disconnect tie rod end from steering knuckle. Disconnect
lower ball joint from lower control arm. Using plastic hammer,
disconnect axle shaft from axle hub. Push front axle hub outward, away
from axle shaft. Using a slide hammer, remove axle shaft from
differential.
Last edited by fastnoypi; Mar 18, 2015 at 10:27 AM.










