Emergency Brake Cable - Stuck
#1
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Emergency Brake Cable - Stuck
I pulled the rear rotor (driver's side) to change the emergency brake as part of a complete brake job and because it didn't seem to hold very well. It was little difficult getting the rotor off, but I put the blame squarely on age and rust. After installing the new E-brake shoes, I can't get the rotor back on. The shoes are the same exact size as the others, but with a tinch more padding.
The only thing I can think of is the E-brake cable has rusted in the same place. I'm not sure how to tackle this problem. I see the adjusting turnbuckle under the carriage and have loosened it a bit, but that doesn't seem to affect the brake cable. I have a few questions:
How much slack should be in the cable?
How easily can you pull/push on the cable and have it move?
What are the points where it can rust into place?
What is the best way of handling this?
Is there a DIY sticky for replacing the cable? I may just follow that to find the rust point.
Thanks!
The only thing I can think of is the E-brake cable has rusted in the same place. I'm not sure how to tackle this problem. I see the adjusting turnbuckle under the carriage and have loosened it a bit, but that doesn't seem to affect the brake cable. I have a few questions:
How much slack should be in the cable?
How easily can you pull/push on the cable and have it move?
What are the points where it can rust into place?
What is the best way of handling this?
Is there a DIY sticky for replacing the cable? I may just follow that to find the rust point.
Thanks!
#2
Moderator
Lets go in steps.
Release the brake
1. Did you turn down the star nut to pull-in (away from the drum) the shoes?
2. You have to use a rubber mallet to what on the drum 120degree points (3 spots) as you spin the drum to allow the shoes to center inside. After a few whacks all around, the drum should spin without any drag. [AWD will have some drag].
3. Adjust the Ebrake:
Turn up the star nut to expand, bang the rotor with the mallet 3 arbitrary points 120-degrees apart, spin and repeat till the drum locks up.
Turn down 8 notches. spin drum .. give it some whacks with mallet.
From released position, apply the brake and count clicks. Good setting .. you should get 5-7 clicks
If not, adjust the turn-buckle.
Salim
Release the brake
1. Did you turn down the star nut to pull-in (away from the drum) the shoes?
2. You have to use a rubber mallet to what on the drum 120degree points (3 spots) as you spin the drum to allow the shoes to center inside. After a few whacks all around, the drum should spin without any drag. [AWD will have some drag].
3. Adjust the Ebrake:
Turn up the star nut to expand, bang the rotor with the mallet 3 arbitrary points 120-degrees apart, spin and repeat till the drum locks up.
Turn down 8 notches. spin drum .. give it some whacks with mallet.
From released position, apply the brake and count clicks. Good setting .. you should get 5-7 clicks
If not, adjust the turn-buckle.
Salim
#3
Pole Position
Thread Starter
I got the rotor off, changed the shoes, and now I can't get it back ON (the brake pedal is released). Initially I had some trouble getting the rotor off, but I presumed it was rust related, now I'm not so sure. The adjuster at the bottom is closed all the way. Any ideas what the problem is?
Thanks
Thanks
#4
Moderator
Please confirm that you have the right parts (they can be different for AWD/FWD ... please check).
The issue then can be with the assembly process.
Salim
The issue then can be with the assembly process.
Salim
#5
Pole Position
Thread Starter
I'm using the same rotors. I've cleaned the inside of the rotors with a wire brush (just in case). The only things different are the pads. I've double checked those and they are for the AWD. So I'm pretty sure I have the correct parts unless the store screwed up and put the wrong product in the right box and they are so close in dimensions as to be impossible to tell.
I don't understand what could be going wrong with assembly (I know they have to be centered). The process seems pretty straight forward. I can get the rotor on over the metal, but when I get to the pads, it hangs. Do you have any thoughts on what could be wrong with assembly? I've presumed that when the adjustment wheel is fully closed that the brakes are fully retracted away from the rotor - is this true?
The only thing left that I can think of is the brake cable is hanging up just enough to prevent the pads from seating closed properly (or functioning much at all). There was rust where the cable comes through the back and the reason I decided to change these out was because they weren't holding very well. However, the pad doesn't seem used that much compared with new.
I don't understand what could be going wrong with assembly (I know they have to be centered). The process seems pretty straight forward. I can get the rotor on over the metal, but when I get to the pads, it hangs. Do you have any thoughts on what could be wrong with assembly? I've presumed that when the adjustment wheel is fully closed that the brakes are fully retracted away from the rotor - is this true?
The only thing left that I can think of is the brake cable is hanging up just enough to prevent the pads from seating closed properly (or functioning much at all). There was rust where the cable comes through the back and the reason I decided to change these out was because they weren't holding very well. However, the pad doesn't seem used that much compared with new.
#7
Moderator
When you put everything together and have the star nut turned down the shoes should come in. If the cable is pulling (brake depressed or length adjusted improperly) the shoes would not come in and the star adjustment bolt will have a play (floating).
Worst case you can put the old shoes and see.
Salim
Worst case you can put the old shoes and see.
Salim
Trending Topics
#8
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Hypervish: Yes, the star wheel is fully retracted.
Salim: With the star wheel fully retracted, there is play on it, so I presume now the cable is at fault. I've loosened the turn buckle, but I can't seem to pull more through. Is there another stay-fast along the length that needs to be loosened?
Thanks
Salim: With the star wheel fully retracted, there is play on it, so I presume now the cable is at fault. I've loosened the turn buckle, but I can't seem to pull more through. Is there another stay-fast along the length that needs to be loosened?
Thanks
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post