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Crank bolt stuck

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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 10:43 AM
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Default Crank bolt stuck

While changing out the Timing belt and crank seal etc. we encountered a leak and had to disassemble. The Crank bolt was put in using an 18 volt socket wrench but we cannot loosen with a 150 PSI air wrench the Wrench is new From Snap on and used in a professional settin daily and the compressor is a new Craftsman so we know it is not the equipment. Has anyone encountered this and had success fixing it?
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 11:19 AM
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Do you have access to the 18 volt socket wrench you used to tighten it? Sounds like the air compressor is undersized.
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by DIYDADOF3
While changing out the Timing belt and crank seal etc. we encountered a leak and had to disassemble. The Crank bolt was put in using an 18 volt socket wrench but we cannot loosen with a 150 PSI air wrench the Wrench is new From Snap on and used in a professional settin daily and the compressor is a new Craftsman so we know it is not the equipment. Has anyone encountered this and had success fixing it?
You can also "bump" it with a wrench of the correct length so that it wedges against a piece of steel near the crank bolt, and then "bump" it with the starter.
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by DIYDADOF3
While changing out the Timing belt and crank seal etc. we encountered a leak and had to disassemble. The Crank bolt was put in using an 18 volt socket wrench but we cannot loosen with a 150 PSI air wrench the Wrench is new From Snap on and used in a professional settin daily and the compressor is a new Craftsman so we know it is not the equipment. Has anyone encountered this and had success fixing it?
Call me old fashioned, but for securing, I always thread by hand (no tools) till all threads are threaded. Then I use torque wrench.

Some folks use blue locktite to secure. If you did then use heat to break the bond.

Checkout the home made SST to hold the main pulley and you can go at bolt with a breaker bar. Remember to use 6pt socket


Salim

Last edited by salimshah; Mar 12, 2014 at 04:21 PM.
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Old Mar 13, 2014 | 11:46 AM
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I don't know about Lexus but some crank bolts are RH threads. Just a thought.
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Old Mar 13, 2014 | 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Rudy602
I don't know about Lexus but some crank bolts are RH threads. Just a thought.
Normal thread ... righty-tighty, lefty-loosy

Salim
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Old Mar 13, 2014 | 01:27 PM
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When I took mine out it took a 3 ft breaker bar and almost all of my (200lb) weight on the end of it before it came loose.
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Old Mar 14, 2014 | 06:22 AM
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Long breaker bar with pipe extension and can bind the flywheel thru the access panel with something. Those bolts will stick really bad....even after a short time. I took mine loose twice in a year and it was very tight each time.
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Old Mar 14, 2014 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Rudy602
I don't know about Lexus but some crank bolts are RH threads. Just a thought.
I think you meant to say LH thread. All "normal" nuts/bolts are RH threaded.
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Old Mar 17, 2014 | 06:36 AM
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Yes, sorry, You're right, I meant LH thread but Salim said they are normal [RH] threads - just tight I guess. Thanks.
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Old Mar 17, 2014 | 07:19 AM
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Default Thanks about Cranks

Originally Posted by Rudy602
Yes, sorry, You're right, I meant LH thread but Salim said they are normal [RH] threads - just tight I guess. Thanks.
Tried most of the responses.

We used 150 # behind a good Air impact. we also tried bumping. We are going with the larger breaker bar. Any tips on immoblizing the flywheel? Thanks to all.
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Old Mar 17, 2014 | 07:40 AM
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Did you build the tool to hold the main pulley? [my preferred method]

Bumping the starter should have given you enough torque. Why did it not work? You could not lock the breaker bar against the frame or floor. [acceptable but not my preferred method]

Holding the flywheel can cause serious issues in case you break the tooth/teeth of the gear. [I would discourage this way]


Salim
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