How would you tell if the front strut mounts are bad and need replacement?
By looking at diagrams it seems that a bearing replacement is all you would need when you need to refreshen the strut assembly. I'd rather keep the oem mount and rebuild it with a new bearing if it is salvagable. What other parts of the mount wear out besides the bearing?

 

I'm not sure they are rebuildable. If you're going to the trouble of disassembling the front suspension, get new struts (KYB are fine), mounts (OE only - not KYB), and end links.

 

yes, the kyb struts are fine, the kyb non OE mounts appear to be sourced to 3rd parties with poor QC...ie poor bearing choices and pressings.

From Sewell, i found the following diagram.. Note the replacement OE bearing part#90903-63014
Its between a metal "sandwich" of the top hat and top spring cup. I'm asking if there is anything not expressed in the diagram which would wear out besides the bearing. If the cost works out, just pressing in a new bearing should be cheaper than getting new mounts.

 

finally spring is here and planning to order parts to freshen up the suspension.

Can anyone confirm if the only wear item on the front strut mounts is the bearing pack? If so, I will order new Toyota bearings and get them pressed into my original OEM mounts.

 

Typically the shock springs a leak, the rubber boot gets torn, the bump stopper gets chewed. The top nut (with nylon lock) needs to be replaced and typically is included with the shock. The bearing can go bad but unlikely.

Also look at :
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...need-help.html


Salim

 

Replace the sway bar end links and sway bar bushings.

 

KYB GR2 shocks are already on the order list. I'll make sure from whom i order from, new bump stops will be included.

@Salim. If the bearing is unlikely to go bad and i have no symptoms of grinding or clicking when steering up front, would it be safe to assume for my front only ..the boot and bump stop need replacing as you indicated..and I can just reuse my front strut tops?


@JAB good call on the swaybar links and bushings. I'll add them to the order.

 

I would say start by a through visual and with a long pry bar check all joints and rubber bushings. Suspension shops have the advantage that they can raise the vehicle with the weight on the wheels and check things out. AT home your options are limited.

For shocks/struts, torn boot is easy to see. To know for sure the bearing is bad, you have to disassemble and then again there is a chance that it can be misdiagnosed. If I had the luxury, I would have the parts at hand.

Do not overlook the problem of steering pump or rack to be bad if your problem is related to turning.

Steering pump, rack and links contribute to turning action while the suspension gets stressed on up/down motion. Please dont misunderstand this statement ,,, it is what contributes more as they are not 100% independent of each other.

Salim




P.S Loosen the top strut nut with the vehicle on ground. Loosen means break the bond ... do not remove without the spring compressors squeezing the springs.

 

@Salim Thanks for the tips. Overall the RX is in fairly good condition as far as steering, no memory steer and maintains good alignment. I don't anticipate any problems with the bearing but agreed, i won't know till things are disassembled. I have been surprised before on other high milage vehicles that didn't exhibit any symptoms.

I have an impact wrench so hitting that top strut nut shouldn't be a problem after i drop the struts out. If you have torque specs for the mounting nuts and top strut nut handy, it would be appreciated.


Edit: Torque specs here https://www.clublexus.com/forums/3667602-post3.html

 

just another question before i start my strut replacement this weekend.

Does anyone know if the lower rear strut bolts are regular bolts or if any are camber bolts?


I'd like to scribe their current position to minimize any alignment changes before i actually bring it to a shop for a 4 wheel alignment. I'm aware the fronts have adjustable camber.

 

Strut has no adjustment options. Top allows for turning movement and the bottom is fixed. The control arm has the adjustment. So if the ball joints/tie-rod-end/control-arm are not separated, your alignment will hold. My understanding is that you will be replacing the control arm so mark the eccentric washer and then hope the new arm seats the same way.

Let me emphasize the importance of right torques when it gets to suspension.

Salim

 

Shock mounts has rubber bushing which get cracked by years. So take a look of mount inner side if the rubber bad or cracked. I think it will be better idea to replace the mounts with bearing, shocks all together which I did mine last week. It will cost you extra but better suspension.

 

Regular bolt.

 

You still have your rear strut mounts? PM Me.

 

thanks for the confirmation