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Car Won't Start

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Old Jan 25, 2013 | 10:28 AM
  #1  
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Default Car Won't Start

A week or so ago I posted that my car was having difficulty starting. My wife thought it was happening when the AC was left on (perhaps but not leaning that direction), I thought that the problem was fixed if I moved the steering wheel and found a "sweet spot" where it would start, but after some further poking around I found that even if the steering wheel wasn't moved and I tried the ignition a few times it would start. Well today...not surprisingly really....it won't start at all.

What happens is the dashboard lights up light normal in the run position, then as usual all the lights go off briefly while I turn the key to start the car. Normally the car would start and the lights go back on. Now the car doesn't start.

I did notice earlier this week that when I would try and start the car and it would fail I could hear the starter spinning. Now if I listen closely to the starter I hear a faint sound but the starter is definitely not engaging or spinning.

I beginning to think a bad battery that doesn't have the power to fully engage the starter or a bad starter. Here is my question.

Back in the days I would run a direct lead from the positive end of the battery to the starter to test it....but considering the amount of computer hardware in this computer I am wondering...is that not wise? Should I pull the starter to test it? I am going to start with having the battery tested of course.

P.S. Just as a disclaimer...we also have an exhaust leak where the "flexible part (not really that flexible)" of the exhaust pipe is just under the engine. Just wanted to mention that in case it may have any bearing on why the car is not starting.

Thanks
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Old Jan 25, 2013 | 10:39 AM
  #2  
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I had a simular problem starting last August.........my car would run great, no problems, every once in a while I would get in the car in the morning and turn the key.....nothing. All lights worked, power all over. Turn it off again and turn it on it would go. One day the starter made a horrible noise then stopped. I would go a week with no problems then the non start happend again.

I just replaced the starter in October and I have never had the problem again. I would say 99% it is your starter.
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 12:38 PM
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So I have tested both the battery and starter and both are working fine. Unfortunately I'm now in the realm of electronics. Below again are the symptoms:

1. Won't Start
2. Won't turn over.
3. Previously the engine would start occasionally and other times it took several attempts but now it just clicks and does nothing.
4. When it does start it starts right up...when it doesn't there is no response at all.
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 01:33 PM
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I decided to clean the positive and negative cables to see if perhaps there was an issue with lack of current getting through. While doing so I noticed this heat sink type thing sitting next to the battery. It had a mounting bracket with two hole and a protrusion. I looked in the area and noticed the base that the battery sits on had the same holes and then when this heat sink was inverter under the battery frame the holes and protrusion aligned perfectly. I later had the battery connected and was hearing a whirring sound. When I unplugged the heat sink device the whirring sound stopped. In any case I reassembled everything back (starter and batter and air filter box and amazingly...the car now starts.

After some research it appears that the heat sink device is called a voltage dropping resistor. Does anyone know what its purpose is and whether it could be related to the problem I was having? Or is it possible that simply cleaning the battery cable contacts was enough to fix the problem?
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by shark13
So I have tested both the battery and starter and both are working fine. Unfortunately I'm now in the realm of electronics. Below again are the symptoms:

1. Won't Start
2. Won't turn over.
3. Previously the engine would start occasionally and other times it took several attempts but now it just clicks and does nothing.
4. When it does start it starts right up...when it doesn't there is no response at all.
3 says it is bad solenoid. Contacts wear out after a while.

Replacement contacts and plunger are available. and dont forget ti get the gasket, if you plan to DIY repair You cso buy a reman solenoid or starter+solenoid.

Salim
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Old Jan 27, 2013 | 01:39 PM
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The car is now starting regularly. What I am trying to determine is whether that is a result of me simply cleaning the battery contacts or whether the voltage dropping resister located under the battery had anything possibly to do with the car not starting.
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Old Jan 27, 2013 | 03:59 PM
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I am with Salim. Replace the starter solenoid plunger, contacts, gasket. You could get from Sewell Lexus very good price about $35.00 plus shipping. Here is the parts number:
MAGNET SWITCH COVER GASKET
2817555050
$1.33 1 $1.33
MAGNET SWITCH PLUNGER, DENSO USA
2823503080
$17.01 1 $17.01
BATTERY TERMINAL STARTER KIT
2822664370
$5.82 1 $5.82
MOTOR TERMINAL STARTER KIT
2822674070
$10.86 1 $10.86
I ordered those and will replace for my RX. I will post DIY with pics.
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Old Jan 27, 2013 | 07:41 PM
  #8  
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What does the voltage dropping resister do?
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