Hey guys,

I have a 1999 Lexus RX-300 and I wanted to change both OCV's.

The issue im having is that I have the Lexus part numbers 153300A010 and 153400A010. When i cross referenced these numbers on Rockauto.com I got 153400A010 which is Dormans part number 917-211 and 153300A010 which is Dormans part number 917-214.

So when I go on Dormans website they post that these are for the 2003 Lexus RX-300. Can this also be used for my 1999 Lexus RX-300.

Has anyone else used Dormans OCV's on their 1999 Lexus RX-300?

Thanks
Kyle

 

Welcome to Club Lexus!

Is there a specific reason you are looking to replace both OCV's?

 

Thanks,

They need replacing.

Are both of these Dorman OCV's I have the correct ones? Its just weird that I can't find an aftermarket OCV by Dorman for the 99 Model but it shows up at the 03 Model.

Also where are the OCV Filters Located? I believe from what I have read they are connected to a banjo bolt somewhere near.

Thanks
Kyle

 

Anyone know?

 

I guess no response is an indication that no one has bought and used the dorman stuff.

Play it safe and get an OEM or risk it. If you plan to DIY, the price differential ouch can be mitigated by the labor cost you save.

Salim

 

I am planning on replacing mine here in the near future. Previous owner seemed to lack on maintenance and I'm sure the filters are probably near shot. On a different note, local ad on CL has a brand new radiator listed for $100. Never priced them before but seems like a good buy for OEM.

 

Here is a link posted by Lex, concerning your OCV and Filters - at least on Bank 2 - includes photo
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/4768156-post3.html
I am working on this situation right now, I will let you know what I find in the way of OCV parts.

 

Here is the original post by LexMex. He has included photos for both OCV and Filter for Banks 1 & 2.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...ease-help.html

 

http://www.toyotapartszone.com/oem/t...340-0A010.html

$60.96 Doesn't tell me the difference between the 15330 and the 15340 ... Don't know which is for bank 1 and bank 2.

 

Alright guys. So just yesterday the original ocv failed on me and also threw a cylinder 6 misfire. I know the plugs and coil packs are fine because I replaced them last August so their only 5 months old. I knew it was going to happen sooner or later considering the mileage of the car and the symptoms it quickly showed. I went ahead and used the doorman stuff. Both ocv valves oem and aftermarket were pretty much identical. It was an easy swap and I located the ocv filters. I cleaned them out really nice there was small chunks stuck in the filter so I'm sure that's the whole sludge issue but it wasn't a lot. Well anyways I completed installing the valves and started the car up. It wouldn't start it was just chugging. I figured maybe the new ocv and ocv filter needed to be primed with oil or something so I gave the car a little gas on the next start up and it was smooth as butter. The doorman ones work perfectly fine. Now I just need to clean that damn iacv valve but the screws are pretty rusted out. I'm 90 percent sure they will strip if I try to remove them. I'm going to do an oil change on this bad boy tomorrow using Castro synthetic oil and a Toyota oil filter. Thanks for all the help and information guys.

 

shadow2121

A couple of tips on cleaning the IACV.

If you just want to remove the solenoid coil and clean the valve while still installed on the throttle body, apply penetrating oil to the threads of the 4 screws on the back side of the flange they screw into. Also be sure to disconnect the hose connected to the bottom of the IACV. This is part of the fuel injection air assist system and any gunk you loosen up while cleaning the IACV will travel down this tube, not good! With the hose disconnected, you can plug the tube with your finger, spray cleaner into the IACV, and gently rotate the valve back and forth while the cleaner does its work. Remove your finger and the cleaner and all the gunk will drain out. Repeat until it comes out clean. Also, be careful not to loose the o-ring and washer when you remove the solenoid.

If you're lucky, this will be enough. If the valve feels like its getting tighter, not looser as you clean it, you may have to remove the throttle body so you can remove the IACV from the throttle body for a really throrough cleaning. This can happen if the valve is really full of carbon and as it breaks loose it can really gum up the valve. To get this out you will need to remove the IACV and thoroughly clean it with cleaner and a toothbrush. This is kind of a PITA but necessary if its really dirty. If you need to get into it this deep, I can post further instructions.

Good luck.
Baetke

 

Know this thread is old but if anyone has more info and pics on what Baetke mentioned in his last post can you share?

I think I may be going thru the same situation.
​​​​​​​Thanks in advance