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Ok so my timming belt broke and when I am attemting to replace but when I went to replace the problem is ive got everything apart and went to line up the timming marks and the back cam or camshaft is stuck/frozen. what does this mean? Am I doing something worng? Thanks for you assistance.
I thought it was when we tried to crank it and it sounded like ther was no compression. My wife was driving when it happend she described to me that the oil light came on it lost power and died. No smoke never overhheated but it Wasn't broke when I took it apart but the teeth were eaten off the belt at the crankshaft sprocket.
You may want to pull the valve covers and take a look and see if there is any damage if you cant turn it at all.. maybe some guys on here who have experienced this may chime in with a more experienced opinion.
This a considerd a non interferance engine right??
I can tell you mine broke while driving (it just died and could barely steer it) - confirmed broken timing belt by two different mechanics - and no engine or any other damage was caused.
This a considerd a non interference engine right??
No it is an interference engine, but the consensus seems to be that you will not do any damage unless the variable valve timing has kicked in when it breaks which I think only happens at higher RPM.
Well the cam on left side of the engine(when standing infront of the passenger side wheel)is locked up. ????????????????????????????????????????other side spins and the cranskshaft spins im lost
Carguy is correct. It IS interference under some circumstances and NOT under others. It is in the VVTing. It sounds like your Bank 1 cam seized for some reason and caused the teeth to strip off the timing belt at the crankshaft. The seizure (for whatever reason) is what started it all. If it was merely a valve sitting against the top of a piston, the cam should still rotate (some) in the other direction. Doesn't sound good, I'm afraid. Oil starvation is the most likely cause for a cam to seize. Is there any chance of sludging in your engine?
I think code is on the right track.. after rereading this post he seems to have trouble shot that one well. Either way pull that rear valve cover and take a look.
If you gently turn the main (crank shaft) and it spins 2 turns without an issue then you are some want assured that the innards are ok. If you remove the plugs, you would not have to fight the compression.
Once you go past your hurdle, remember you are working on a 4 stroke engine. The 0 mark on main for TDC needs to be matched to the right ignition-or-exhaust position. Hard to make mistake when you take the belt off by keeping things as is, but in your situation you will have to figure that out.