Lexmex

On the mpg, you have a 17 gallon tank in there, so if you are getting 200 miles a tank, that's roughly close to 12 mpg (around 11.7) or about 5 km/l

When the 1999 RX300 was new, it was 19 city/24 highway mpg (8 city, 10.2 highway km/) for the FWD and for the AWD it was 17 city/22 highway mpg (7.2 city/9.3 highway km/l)

We had someone here, https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...out-yours.html that had similar mileage and we started a whole thread around it that I sticked at the top.

A2A

Thanks, I will give that ago once the Spark plugs are in as I'm hoping thats the reason for the poor mpg, however I've noticed the interior light does not come on when you open the door to sit in which is not helpful in the dark, I can only assume it's the fuse as it was fine the other day, any idea where to locate and change that particular fuse?? Furthermore I have already done the first drain and refill, thus can I confirm how many miles I should travel for the second drain and refill?

A2A

Right then, slight concern after first drain and fill with Amsoil Universal ATF, having started to drive home from work, having just driving off the car changed up to 3rd gear but stayed on 3rd with reaching 3k? Outside temp 4 degrees, albeit just driving off but prior to yesterday drain and fill, the car would change smoothly and effortlessly to 4th strait away? I noticed this twice throughout the 12 mile trip, the second with engine temp at normal? Therefore having previously had it running on the old stuff and with it being double the max level it ran faultlessly then I change to Amsoil about 4 litres with and with it sitting correctly on the dipstick I face the mentioned issues? I'm worried that it does not like the Amsoil stuff or probably wants it to be overfilled again?? Do, stop the drain and refill with Amsoil and do the remaining ones with original Toyota or continue with the Amsoil and see how it goes?? Just to note my mechanic did not drain the oil from the plug but siphoned it via a special tube via the dipstick level, then filled 2 litres, kept the runing and slowly topping up whilst intermittently checking it via shifting the gears up and down. Furthermore it drove fine from the garage too so and this morning when the outside temp was colder so why did experience this in the way back from work?? Confused and concerned as I don't want to cause it any harm etc.

A2A

Just add, is there a recommended gear to mph ration that can be a useful guide as to when the gears should change up at approximately what mph etc. However I think I may just continue with the current Amsoil drain and refill and hope that what I experience was just the car getting use to the new stuff?...

Lexmex

Which one, the one on the door or the one overhead?

For the drain and fill, I use about 100 miles or one week of commuting (with the latter you usually gets a good enough mix of highway/city driving to get the new tranny fluid mixed in).

Lexmex

Well if that is 4 celsius, that's about 39 fahrenheit.

There's nothing wrong with Amsoil ATF. First time I put Amsoil ATF into mine (old stuff in there was Toyota Type IV), difference was definitely noticeable and quite positive and smooth, but it was nice warm Florida weather. I had drained somewhere between 4 to 4.5 liters out after draining both the front differential and tranny pan.

Keep in mind, that upon starting up the vehicle, give it a chance to warm up a bit because the vehicle won't upshift until the tranny fluid is still cold. In idle or park, I find this take about 3 to 4 minutes, maybe 2 minutes if you are driving to get the temp up. When it's colder, it's going to take a bit longer. I noticed this in Mexico (we did get that cold on occasion) and sometimes in Miami. When the mechanic was doing it the way they did, the vehicle was on and the tranny fluid was getting warmed up in the process. That doesn't mean it's fully warmed up, but after about 15 minutes or so on the road, things should run better then. If not, then you need to see where the tranny fluid level is when it is cold (right before you go out in the morning).

Lexmex

With regard to gear changes, the answer is it's going to depend. I have a whole bunch of videos on page 2 here, http://www.youtube.com/user/lexmex1/...&view=u&page=2 and see the one with driver's views and you can hear the switchovers, but that's under varying circumstances. There is a max speed for each gear actually mentioned on the second page of this document here, http://www.theaa.com/staticdocs/pdf/...00SE_DEC01.PDF

And I have to say looking at my track videos that figure is about dead on when I floor on the accelerator off at the light on the track and take a look at the mph and the rpm changes.

Gear 1 max mph = 38
Gear 2 max mph = 67
Gear 3 max mph = 103
Gear 4 max mph = 111 (112 mph is the fuel cutoff and you can see that in one of those videos I have)

hypervish

It usually takes my RX about 3 minutes, to get above the C when it's about 40F outside.
When it's about 10F outside or if it's snowing, I warm it up 6-7 minutes.

In the winter or when I'm out somewhere which requires me to get straight onto the highway (ie. high rpm needed), I warm the RX up 7 minutes, which usually get's the engine to operating temperature, and overdrive un-locked and useable. Of course, all of the other fluids are still cold though. I don't like to rev high on a cold engine, especially if it's only going to take a few minutes to warm up. I rather waste a few dollars worth of gas then need to get an engine. Some people will say I warm up my car too much, and I'm sure I do... But, I'm old school like that. LOL

A2A

Thanks for the advice, silly me forgot to check the interior light switch was not set on door so thats all was needed for that. Denso Iridium Tough VK20's now fitted, the old rear ones looked as though they were never changed as they were the original Denso's and looked rough and the front 3 were NGK's! I watched the whole process and it was definitely a Job to change them, also managed to get the throttle bottle cleaned out via car cleaner whilst it was there, car definitely more stable on idle now so hope to see an improvement in mpg too. Furthermore the Amsoil looks to have settled in and there is a noticeable smoothness so fingers crossed it keeps on. Got some Pirelli Scorpion STR's ordered too however the size I've gone for is 255/65/16 which was confirmed as okay via the tyre suppliers so hopefully that should fit well too. Only outstanding job now is to identify the noise that I hear when turning right, mechanic sat and what little he heared did not make him think it be a CV joint but more steering rack or I think he mentioned front right strutt mount? Anyway it not pose him an immediate concern which is just as well considering the amount I've spent thus far! Lastly, having looked at some of you're cool videos LExmex, I'm interested to know what that additional power changed you have connected to the battery, which looks like it's Optima, something I wish to also have fitted once you've confirmed them both as I'm eager to get some amplified power and spark to the plugs!

Lexmex

I hear a noise on mine when turning and sometimes I won't hear it at all. I can't notice anything on mine even when my fiance takes the wheel and tries turning in the parking lot at slow speed.

On the power modifications, that would be two things:

The Optima Red Top 34/78 I no longer have, but now have a Deka ETX30L, a smaller battery, but does the job just fine.

The other things on my battery now are:

http://www.sunautomobile.com/hyperGround.html
http://www.sunautomobile.com/hyperVoltage.html
http://www.designengineering.com/cat...-insulation-ki

A2A

Guys,

I'm looking to drop the pan in a week or so but wanted to ask if I should purchase an aftermarket filter? I can get one from the states from Rock Auto who sell have a few to choose from and in particular ATP branede. Should I go ahead and get the ATP transmission filter kit or do you think it best to stick to LEXUS OEM which is about double the cost of the ATP which includes shipped here to the UK? Otherwise is there anyone can provide an OEM filter, shipped to the UK? Thanks

Lexmex

Do you have a link to the ATP one?

A2A

Hi Lexmex, here are the links of the filters I have the option of, I am assuming however they will be fine for my 1999 Harrier that shares the same transmission?

ATP; http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=292002
Beck/Arnley; http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=478465
WIX; http://info.rockauto.com/WIX/DetailW...asp?Part=58618

Otherwise the other option is the OEM from my local Toyota dealer, let me know, thanks!

Lexmex

Incidentally, I bought the Beck Arnley off of Amazon.com for my last filter (about 2 years ago) and it's been running just fine. I examined it about a week ago when I took off the pan.

I mentioned it earlier in this thread and can't remember if you were able to find out, but the earlier Harriers and RX300s had metal transmission filters (that can be washed and re-used) as opposed to the paper filters shown in the three links above. On the first drain and fill it would be possible to shine a light through the transmission drain hole and see if you can see the bottom of the filter (the circle area on the filter) and see if it has paper element or a metal element.

I don't think I ever remember heaing about any issue using the other filters mentioned (and we have had other members from other areas in the world), so go ahead and get the filter that's going to be easier for you to get. I also know of RX300 and Harrier owners in Russia using different tranny filters depending on availability and in none of the translations from Russian I have read on the two major RX/Harrier forums there have I ever seen an issue either.

Yes, the Harrier and the RX300 have the same U140 tranny and there is no difference in the tranny filter size whether you have the U140F for AWD or the U140E or FWD vehicles.

A2A

Thanks Lexmex, I think I'm going to go for the ATP one as it appears to look superior to the others, but can not confirm as its a US based brand like the others etc. However I'm also looking to change the oil as to avoid any sluge issues, can you also recommend a suitable oil from the following, we have Mobil 1, Castrol, Amsoil, Red Line available here so if you could advise on the best possible one and spec then I would be greatful, thanks. I am also going to go for the K&N HP-2009 filter that you use so can just confirm that the size will be okay for the Harrier too? Cheers