Replace power steering pump or not?
I backed out of synthetic as it increased the dampness around the pump. [I introduced synthetic at around 150K miles].
Problems with the pump are
1) leak
2) bubbles in the reservoir
3) Jerky assist
4) Whining
Salim
Problems with the pump are
1) leak
2) bubbles in the reservoir
3) Jerky assist
4) Whining
Salim
If you (family) are not mechanically inclined or have the tools, then buy the parts and take it to any mechanic. No special skills are required.
Procedure is:
New pump (after market are available ,,, I would stick to OEM)
Banjo, washers.
Get under the Rx.
Loosen the nuts and bolt that secure the pump. (one nut is accessed through the hole in the pulley).
Push the pump to loosen the belt and take off the belt.
If needed retighten nuts/bolts, and undo the pressure pipes (high and low), collect the pump fluid. * [I dont recommend removing the pipes earlier as you may have to abort if the belt does not get off]
Remove the nuts/bolts and take the pump out.
Undo the pulley nut and remove the pulley [You may need vise/impact-wrench/gear puller]
Install the pulley in the new pump.
Install the new pump.
Remove and discard the caps (dust protector).
Install new banjo washer and re-connect the pipes.
Put the belt on and push the pump to create right tension on the belt.
Secure all nuts and bolts to proper tension (including the pipes).
Fill the reservoir.
Start the RX and turn steering wheel all the way to the left and stay for 15 sec.
Then turn the wheel all the way to the right and stay 15 sec.
This would purge the air.
Repeat couple of times till the reservoir shows no bubbles.
Salim
Procedure is:
New pump (after market are available ,,, I would stick to OEM)
Banjo, washers.
Get under the Rx.
Loosen the nuts and bolt that secure the pump. (one nut is accessed through the hole in the pulley).
Push the pump to loosen the belt and take off the belt.
If needed retighten nuts/bolts, and undo the pressure pipes (high and low), collect the pump fluid. * [I dont recommend removing the pipes earlier as you may have to abort if the belt does not get off]
Remove the nuts/bolts and take the pump out.
Undo the pulley nut and remove the pulley [You may need vise/impact-wrench/gear puller]
Install the pulley in the new pump.
Install the new pump.
Remove and discard the caps (dust protector).
Install new banjo washer and re-connect the pipes.
Put the belt on and push the pump to create right tension on the belt.
Secure all nuts and bolts to proper tension (including the pipes).
Fill the reservoir.
Start the RX and turn steering wheel all the way to the left and stay for 15 sec.
Then turn the wheel all the way to the right and stay 15 sec.
This would purge the air.
Repeat couple of times till the reservoir shows no bubbles.
Salim
I could guess why Salim figure his way like that, the Lexus service manual use a special tool to reach that bolt, the figure on manual look very like the tool go thru the hole of pulley but it's not.
The bolt is above the pulley, very difficult to reach(you can't see it ). I find a way to skip the special tool, if any body have better solution,I'm all ear. My way is use a 3/8 to 1/4 adapter plus 12mm socket, the extra length make it reach the bolt and socket wrench can avoid the pulley blockade. You can reach it from either under or above, but under is easier.
The first time I tried to loosen the bolt (8 years ago), I cracked my 12mm socket(it's very tight). So I went to Sears and bought another 12mm socket(6 points), I managed to loosen it the second time and changed my belt. Please make sure your tool is strong enough if you try to loosen it the first time. Hope this experience could help forum members who want to change belt or fix power steering pump.
I dont ever claim to be infallible, and if another process works or is easier, then all the power to you. It has been years since I had mess with my pump, but to best of my recollection, I had to spin the pulley by turning the main pulley till I could reach with the socket extension. Next time I crawl under, I will come back and confirm.
Salim
Salim
I dont ever claim to be infallible, and if another process works or is easier, then all the power to you. It has been years since I had mess with my pump, but to best of my recollection, I had to spin the pulley by turning the main pulley till I could reach with the socket extension. Next time I crawl under, I will come back and confirm.
Salim
Salim
After you pull out the bolt, the pump can be drop down because of the U opening of the bracket.
@ RKT10: I have some PDF manuals, if you still need. Private message me and I'll send them to you. Also, I pulled my power steering pump and replaced the seals, etc. on it while I was doing my timing belt. I'm pretty sure I wrote down the procedure with pictures, but I never got around to posting it. If you are interested, let me know. I can at least get you pictures of the procedure.
Not sure i should replace either. First noticed a semi stiff steering wheel. Not so much that i cant turn, just not as easy as with my other cars.
took vehicle in for inspection, mechanic said pump is leaking which i see but not enough to notice any change in the reservoir level. He also said the control arm is wearing out.
seeing as though i can still turn the wheel im not sure how necessary it is to change or how dangerous it is to leave it. The part seems pretty cheap but the labor it seems isnt that easy. Ive changed the alternator before but ive heard this is more difficult and may be difficult to torque.
any thoughts?
took vehicle in for inspection, mechanic said pump is leaking which i see but not enough to notice any change in the reservoir level. He also said the control arm is wearing out.
seeing as though i can still turn the wheel im not sure how necessary it is to change or how dangerous it is to leave it. The part seems pretty cheap but the labor it seems isnt that easy. Ive changed the alternator before but ive heard this is more difficult and may be difficult to torque.
any thoughts?
Not sure i should replace either. First noticed a semi stiff steering wheel. Not so much that i cant turn, just not as easy as with my other cars.
took vehicle in for inspection, mechanic said pump is leaking which i see but not enough to notice any change in the reservoir level. He also said the control arm is wearing out.
seeing as though i can still turn the wheel im not sure how necessary it is to change or how dangerous it is to leave it. The part seems pretty cheap but the labor it seems isnt that easy. Ive changed the alternator before but ive heard this is more difficult and may be difficult to torque.
any thoughts?
took vehicle in for inspection, mechanic said pump is leaking which i see but not enough to notice any change in the reservoir level. He also said the control arm is wearing out.
seeing as though i can still turn the wheel im not sure how necessary it is to change or how dangerous it is to leave it. The part seems pretty cheap but the labor it seems isnt that easy. Ive changed the alternator before but ive heard this is more difficult and may be difficult to torque.
any thoughts?
First determine where the leak is? If it is on the pressurized side/line then don't wait. If it is on the low pressure side then figure out where does the leak go. If it gets into electrical stuff then again replace it in a hurry. If it goes on the rubber parts then again replace soon. If it messes up you garage floor then ...
I would suggest fix it and enjoy instead of worrying when it goes bad and where would the vehicle be when it goes bad. Access, tools and your skill are needed.
Salim
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