Here is how it looks like. Is this normal? Also is there a tool to push the axle in since there isn't much clearance to easily push with hands.

 

I finally snapped the axle back in. I put some transmission oil on the snap ring. Then I put it on the differential and wigled it till I could feel the gears lock in. After that place a long piece on metal on the lip of the CV joint and lightly tapped it with hammer. A little push with the hand after that and in slipped in. It seems to be locked in pretty good now.

 

Great

Salim

 

Well I have got every thing back except for the upper strut to knucle bolt (there are two bolts). I was able to get the lower one to align but the upper hole simply wont align no matter how hard I try. Is there a trick to this or am I doing anything wrong?

 

The camber bolts that hold the shock on?
Try just starting the top one in first, with that bolt, and wiggle it to help start the bottom one in.
I never had the camber bolts out on an RX before. Do those camber bolts have an excrentric (offset) center to help adjust the camber? See if the bolts are special.

Just my 2 cents...

 

Undo the lower one and then install the top one, but dont tighten it. Then insert the lower. This way, you will get more leverage. Some times jacking up the bottom of suspension can help [just be careful as you dont want to build up energy in a unconstrained (loose) suspension.

Salim

 

Well I got them in. Yes I was talking about the camber bolts. I had to turn the wheel all the way to the left and jack up the knuckle a little bit. Then will some pushing it aligned .
Now an other problem. It seems like the brakes are locked so the tires wont move. Brake padel feels like its already depressed. I am thinking what happened was that I changed the passenger side brakes first and after I put new brakes on the passenger side, I started up the car and depressed the brake padel while the caliper on the dirvers side was hanging loose. This might have caused the caliper to travel more than it should and lock up. By the way I used c-clamp to push piston in.

Thanks.

 

They are straight but eccentrics are available.

 

Dont intend to offend, but seriously stop and ponder at each step before you proceed. It seems you are tired and trying hard and one thing is leading to another.

If you depressed the brakes without the caliper + pad on the rotors, the pistons would travel far beyond and come out of the cylinder. You should have some fluid leak as well. The pistons and the seals and the fluid at that time get contaminated with dirt. Then you need to take the caliper off and do a good cleaning and reinstall the seals. One can push every thing back in but in the long run it might come to haunt you as brake failure may happen.

Salim
ps: I would replace the seals as well.

 

Thanks Salim. Yes I have been kind of frustrated witht his project since I only intended to replace brakes and ended up taking the whole suspension apart. I have been trying to do this in a hurry since I have been borrowing my friend's car for a week and want this fixed ASAP.

 

Well it seems like the rear brakes were locked up. I double checked there was no fluid leaking from the front calipers. I jacked up the front of the car and tried to move the wheels. Both the wheels spun freely. E-brake padel seem too soft as if it was already depressed. After I put the car in D and R a couple time I heard the brakes release. Now the car seems to drive fine. The rear rotors are rusted bad too so they need to be changed soon.

 

The car seems to be pulling to the left a bit and the steering returns to 11 o' clock position instead of completely straight. I am guessing I need front alignment done.

 

Yes, you will need to get an alignment done now. It can range anywhere from $40- $70. DO NOT go to sears,walmart, or any other all in one shopping place. Go to firestone, STP tire, or another store that specializes in tires/alignments.

 

I got the front end alignment done. All is good now. Thanks every one for the help.