Even after having an Alignment and the front end checked, which all if perfect. The car still pulls to the left, not as much as it did before, but its still a noticeable pull. Here are the alignment details:

Front
Before After
Caster Left 2.5 2.5
Right 2.4 2.5

Camber Left -0.6 -0.6
Right -0.7 -0.7

Toe Left 0.20 0.10
Right -0.10 0.10

Rear
Camber Left -0.6 -0.5
Right -0.4 -0.4

Toe Left 0.35 0.15
Right 0.05 0.05

These are all considered "in specification" this was aligned using a hoffmann alignment machine.

What do you think? thanks

 

Tire pull.
Try crossing the front tires and see if it still pulls.
Or try moving the rear ones to the front.
Was tire press. checked?
Also check for brakes that are "dragging". Maybe one of your front calipers aren't fully releasing causing it make the vehicle pull to that side.

 

I just had all four tires replaced, Goodyear Assurance Confortread, tire pressure is 32 psi all around. Calipers, were all replaced, about 5k ago.

 

Still, I'd switch over the front tires just to confirm. Does it pull on all roads, or some more than others? Road camber can cause the car to pull to one side.

 

New tires doesn't mean they're perfect.
It's always possible that one tire is put together tighter than the other.
I'd just cross them and go from there.
It's simple enough to do.

 

What do you do for a living Nad? Excellent advise in both of you posts. It's called "radial pull" and used to be fairly common. Not so much anymore but still exists. I did wheel alignment in the course of my work and whenever I aligned a car, I always took it for a test drive and if there was any pull after alignment (since I knew it was aligned correctly) I always switched the tires around and cannot remember a time that I wasn't able to correct the problem. (checking the pressure was always 1st. on the list when you ran it on the rack for alignment.) That's still not correcting the problem of the radial pull in the tire, only making sure it goes straight down the road. The only way to correct the pull completely is replace the tire, but switching to eliminate pull is a reasonable way, so long as the pull isn't serious.

Your advice on switching L to R, and R to L is the 1st thing I would do when it pulled, that told you it was RP if the pull switched sides.

 

John, see later posts (which you probably already have) but I am curious as to how they came up with a different caster figure on the R side after the alignment, because there is no caster adjustment provided on the RX's. I have had the struts out on my DIL's '99 RX and I swear I didn't see any sign of a camber adjustment either, although it has been debated on the forum and some say there is a very small adjustment. In modern cars with Mac. Struts when none is provided, my experience is, baring collision damage, none is needed. A lot of cars with MS's don't have C&C adjustment.

Addtl.: There should not be any camber adjustment on the rear either, if I'm not mistaken. The figures show a camber change with the alignment. There is a toe adjustment on the rear and it appears he adjusted that some, but why not adjusted to match the R side? Toe should always be same L & R. I question the equipment used as well as the technician, although I don't think any of those figures should be responsible for the pull.