Mobil 1 5W30, but mostly because I have a hoard of it from buying on sale. That and it does not leak or burn a drop, so I figure if it ain't broke, don't fix it. But when the temps drop I always think I should run something thinner. Maybe after the oil hoard runs out.

hey everyone i'm going to do this oil change soon for the first time and hope to get some tips.

any oil or filter i should try to get, or will they all perform/last similarly? looks like the cheaper filters are only a couple bucks on rockauto. i know people are suggesting the k&n because of the nut, but how difficult would it be to change one without the nut? the k&n costs 10x as much, but if it's better aside from easier installation, that would be another reason to go for it. if i get a wrench tool, i could use it for my other vehicles as well so it wouldn't be a bad idea. so are the k&n's just for convenience or should i just get a tool and buy cheaper filters? also, i don't have a 1" socket so would wrench or pliers work for the k&n?

how can the likes of jiffy lube only charge $30 for an oil change? doesn't oil and filter itself cost over $30? and what's the reason they charge more for high mileage? the work isn't any more work involved right?

I actually hate the K&N. You need a really large socket (1" if I recall correctly) and I found that it was more difficult to remove because the socket kept slipping off because of the awkward angle and the paint on the nut that made it super slick. I know there are people who swear that it is easier, but I cursed it all the way out. There was no grip on the K&N, so even after getting it loose I had to use the socket to get it off as the paint was too slick to even back it out with my hand once a tiny bit of oil got on it.

Now, if I thought it was the best filter ever I might be willing to overlook the nightmare that the removal was, but I actually think it filters pretty badly. I wasn't happy at all with it compared to the Bosch I usually purchase. What I use is a Bosch filter and Mobil 1 full synthetic. I order it by the case as it is cheaper that way.

*Mobil 1 3309 is ATF fluid*

thanks. also didn't know there was such thing as high mileage oil. do we need this for high mileage vehicles?

Woah!! No, that's ATF (Toyota Type-IV)...Do not pour that into your engine!!

And, +1 on the K&N. Not only is it a pain to remove, but it also doesn't filter well. It's intended for high flow, not high filtration.

Other posters have commented on how hard it is to reach the oil filter in this engine bay. Consider this: I am the original owner of my 99 RX, with 232K. I have done virtually all of the post-warranty maintenance: brakes, evap system, suspension, IACV, starter, valve covers & gaskets, OCV, door lock actuators, air servos, bulbs, etc. How many times have I changed the oil & filter? ONCE. It was so hard I swore I would never do it again. I have the oil and filter changed about every 5-6K; I just don't do it myself.

Yes, this filter placement goes straight to the hell hall-of-fame!
I'm dreading the spark plugs myself, will have the dealer deal with it...

Mine is a 2002 with 120k.

I'm also have CEL lights galore which I need to take care of. Will pull out the code and search for solution.

you don't need it but it may be a good idea if you want to prevent oil leaks by conditioning hard to reach seals which may cost alot of labor to replace.

FWIW, i've switched to high milage formulas for peace of mind after i noticed how brittle my valve cover seals were when performing the rear valve cover replacement. Any oil seal the engine may have at this high milage, should essentially swell with the formula.

When you say 'valve cover seals' I assume you are referring to the 'spark plug tube seals.' Yes, extremely brittle.

Staying on topic .. oil/oil change? Do you have oil leak problem? If not then keep doing what has been working. If you see leakage, trace and then decide the cure. Some times the gasket/seal has to be replaced and at time additives and high milage oils help. I would not decide just based on certain milage of the vehicle. But that is just my opinion (ymmv).

Salim

Those were brittle as well. My valve cover seals were visibly all cracked but somehow didn't leak. They had no flexibility at all and one corner actually ripped when i attempted to remove the cover. If i didnt have an oil consumption problem, the valve cover seals would have leaked sooner or later.

****! You're right! I'm amending that immediately. Thanks for the catch. I was half-asleep when I wrote that and I have no idea what the hell I was thinking.

As far as how much of a PITA the filter is - yes, it is in a really stupid spot. What I really hate the most is that the oil from the filter spills all over the front of the engine.

I find it helpful to get a little step to stand on. I keep the car on the ground as the oil plug is easy to get to from under the front. I use a 3" extension rod.. If I remember correctly, I angle the oil filter socket in sideways, then turn the socket down towards the ground to get it into the larger space below the manifold. Then I get it on the filter. I find this easier than putting the oil filter socket on first and trying to connect the wrench. It takes a little practice, but it's easier and cheaper than getting ripped off at the local shop.

i just get the motor slightly up to temperature then drain the oil completely, replace the drain bolt and wait 30 min to an hour to let any remaining oil to drain from the oil filter. It minimizes the amount of oil spilled up front.

I don't use any fancy wrenches or extensions to get to the filter. Just a pair of jersey gloves ( cheap gardening gloves dipped in rubber for grip). Laying with my legs towards the passenger front tire, i can reach up from underneath with my right hand and twist the oil filter off.