DIY Oil Change
#16
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Here's how the oil filter wrench works.
1. You have the filter.
2. Place the filter on to the oil filter
3. Push the red lever away from you, as seen in my left hand, or forward to tighten the band around the filter.
4. Now, with the filter locked down tight, one can push the filter counterclockwise (as if I were pushing it into my stomach in the photo above).
The wrench would go on the other side of the filter assuming we wanted to tighen it in the clockwise direction.
1. You have the filter.
2. Place the filter on to the oil filter
3. Push the red lever away from you, as seen in my left hand, or forward to tighten the band around the filter.
4. Now, with the filter locked down tight, one can push the filter counterclockwise (as if I were pushing it into my stomach in the photo above).
The wrench would go on the other side of the filter assuming we wanted to tighen it in the clockwise direction.
#17
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Great instructions Lex, but the filter that you mention (HP 2009) its not the same that you have in the photo, Are they the same? Also, when you flush your engine, you do it every time you change oil and filter? Finally, you run your engine for 10 minutes with the flush solution?
Thanks for all your help
Thanks for all your help
#18
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Thread Starter
What you want to next is initially loosen the filter with a tool just enough to the point where you can unscrew the filter with your hands (not too much or oil will spill).
One can then place the bucket of oil immediately on the ground underneath the location of the oil filter. Another possibility is shown below where I put a lot of paper towel underneath the same location and you can see the oil drip as shown.
Then put some paper towel immediately below the filter as shown.
You'll then want to unscrew the filter as quickly as possible, pull it out and keep the front of the filter pointed straight down as oil will still be inside the filter.
One can then place the bucket of oil immediately on the ground underneath the location of the oil filter. Another possibility is shown below where I put a lot of paper towel underneath the same location and you can see the oil drip as shown.
Then put some paper towel immediately below the filter as shown.
You'll then want to unscrew the filter as quickly as possible, pull it out and keep the front of the filter pointed straight down as oil will still be inside the filter.
#19
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Thread Starter
Great instructions Lex, but the filter that you mention (HP 2009) its not the same that you have in the photo, Are they the same? Also, when you flush your engine, you do it every time you change oil and filter? Finally, you run your engine for 10 minutes with the flush solution?
Thanks for all your help
Thanks for all your help
Some flushes require more time like Amsoil's, but the Lubro Moly requires just 10 minutes.
I do flush the engine every time I do the oil, but that's not required. Keep in mind, my engine got a lot more abuse over the years given where I was and what I did with the vehicle. Not there would be something wrong with the oil or sludge problem, but I want it kept as clean as I can.
#21
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You'll then want to take the new filter and lubricate the rubber ring as shown (you can use a bit of the old oil in the bucket to do this) in order to get a good seal.
#22
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Thread Starter
Here is where the oil filter fits on.
If for some reason you have a problem with this gold screw piece, the part number is 90404-19013 and it costs under $10.
If for some reason you have a problem with this gold screw piece, the part number is 90404-19013 and it costs under $10.
#23
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Thread Starter
Some people like to prefill the oil filter with some oil so that the engine has some oil upon startup. That's optional, but I don't do this, because it is such a mess with an oil filter that has to go in horizontally.
You then want to screw in the oil filter by hand and tighten as much as possible by HAND ONLY.
You then want to screw in the oil filter by hand and tighten as much as possible by HAND ONLY.
#24
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Thread Starter
Generally, one with a tool tightening will only then be able to tighten by hand no more than about 1/4 to 1/2 turn. However, hand is the safe way to go to not overtighten and you can do the same thing with a tool by hand alone
I put a dot initially where the blue arrow is with a magic marker so that when I make my 1/4 turn the dot is immediately beneath the filter as shown below and you will feel the resistance. Basically screw the oil filter down until it is flat (stops turning without pushing it) then go to the 1/4 turn pushing through resistance.
I put a dot initially where the blue arrow is with a magic marker so that when I make my 1/4 turn the dot is immediately beneath the filter as shown below and you will feel the resistance. Basically screw the oil filter down until it is flat (stops turning without pushing it) then go to the 1/4 turn pushing through resistance.
Last edited by Lexmex; 02-16-14 at 06:04 AM.
#25
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Thread Starter
Don't forget to put the plastic cover back on.
Then put into the five quarts of oil.
As I mentioned earlier, my favorite oil is the Castrol Syntec 0W30 (the German Castrol). The bottle should be marked on the back, Made in Germany.
It runs about $6 a quart and Autozone and Pep Boys are two places I have seen it.
If I didn't have that, Amsoil 0W30 would be my next choice followed by Pennzoil Platinum 5W30.
I really haven't had trouble with this oil at all and have been using it for about the past 2 years since I first got my hands on it in Mexico, where I had no consumption issues with it and it was great for racing.
Then put into the five quarts of oil.
As I mentioned earlier, my favorite oil is the Castrol Syntec 0W30 (the German Castrol). The bottle should be marked on the back, Made in Germany.
It runs about $6 a quart and Autozone and Pep Boys are two places I have seen it.
If I didn't have that, Amsoil 0W30 would be my next choice followed by Pennzoil Platinum 5W30.
I really haven't had trouble with this oil at all and have been using it for about the past 2 years since I first got my hands on it in Mexico, where I had no consumption issues with it and it was great for racing.
#27
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Thread Starter
Finally, start it up.
What I like to do is usually let it run for 13 minutes to fully warm up the vehicle. Then let the engine cool down for about 10 minutes and verify the oil level on the dipstick (yellow handled one) that it is up to the left dot as shown below.
While the engine is running for its initial 13 minutes verify underneath that there is no leaking.
I then take it out on the road for about 15 minutes.
Feel free to add anything.
What I like to do is usually let it run for 13 minutes to fully warm up the vehicle. Then let the engine cool down for about 10 minutes and verify the oil level on the dipstick (yellow handled one) that it is up to the left dot as shown below.
While the engine is running for its initial 13 minutes verify underneath that there is no leaking.
I then take it out on the road for about 15 minutes.
Feel free to add anything.
#28
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Thread Starter
There's also usually enough of the drained out oil still coated on the parts, but my uncle and cousin used to prefill on every vehicle, even though I wouldn't do that on mine.
#30
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^ It is said that if you do not pre-fill your oil filter, your turbocharger, running at thousands of rpms, will run dry for a second or two at the most. That is because more often than not the line that feeds the turbocharger comes off the top of the oil filter housing. If the filter is dry the turbo isn't getting any oil for those two or three seconds while the pump creates pressure.