rfakinbile

Quite appreciate the contribution of members on the issue of knock sensor replacement and suggestions including pictures of steps taken.
However, the code reader specifie knock sensor bank 2 is bad. Which one of the two is bank 2 (is it the one with longer cable?) .
I already placed order of both sensors and wire harness but I was informed the harnesss is unavailable. Would I be doing anything wrong if I replace only sensors and use the wre harness that I have on the car presently. Any idea?
Why must the wire harness be replaced at all?
Will appreciate early response.

Lexmex

A few have done this process on this forum and I might wait for them to give their input. It does require moving the intake manifold. Knock sensor 2 is the one on the front bank (closest to the front of the vehicle), but I generally recommend if you do this to replace both sensors (they are right near each other).

The harness itself should be carefully checked for any issue with the wiring if you decide to reuse it. A mechanic could check the resistance on the harness to make sure you are getting the right juice there.

Keep in mind one of the reasons for this code coming up can be the knock sensor itself, but could also equally be the wiring (short circuit).

lexus114

Well,I have not replaced mine yet,but some where on this board,posted not long ago,is a member showing pictures,and explaining how to do this.As far as the wiring is concerned,it should be replaced at the same time.I believe due to heat stress,and if your going in their,may as well replace it too.

h2osmokey

Had it done today at the dealer. . . $1382.46 U.S. !! They just got my federal tax incentive befoe I did.

thomas1

here is the procedure:
http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums...or+replacement

rfakinbile

Thanks all. I've got all required information, just waiting for the parts to be delivered. Will keep you posted once I get it done.
I don't have problem with the procedure as I have replaced my plugs before and also used the opportunity to service my injector nozzles, the job took me about 4.5hours.

knk112

I have the same code! dealer want 1300+ Said I should replace both sensors, gaskets (3), and spark plugs! YIKES!

rfakinbile

All,
Final feedback on this problem. Just replaced it today and transmission shifts perfectly well. Only sensors were replaced, other items re-used. Total hour spent was 2hrs but with one of my technician who has been working with me. No need to replace the gaskets once they are not damaged and the sensors were removed without removing the water hose above it but this has to be done carefully.
Thanks once again.

Lexmex

Congratulations. That water hose can be pretty tricky. I don't like it's design at all.

thomas1

I would have replaced the water hose for general practice, since you were in that area. Oh well its done, 2 hrs. not bad. You are the pro....Glad you fixed it.

salimshah

I am getting cel + trac on and on scanning, I get p0330.

Funny thing is that trac goes off on turning the ignition off and CEL stays and then after a bit of driving the CEL goes off.

I have not been shut out of overdrive. The running seems normal.

On an uphill. the CEL comes back on. Surprisingly, I do not hear or feel any engine knock. Before cleaning the MAF (a while back) the engine would ping due to lean air preigniting but knock sensor would not show up.


I am concluding that knock sensors need to be replaced [150k miles]. Any other opinion is welcome.

The book says to remove the air-cowl, wiper motor etc to gain access to the back of the air intake. If some one has successfully [with special tools if needed] avoided this step, please let me know.

The toyota DIY [Lexmex link] talks about swing things out of the way instead of disconnecting wires and hoses. Can some one confirm if that is doable?

thomas1 link, unfortunately leads to no photos.

Advice and pointers are welcome.

Salim

rfakinbile

I've done it twice. You could bypass removing the wiper Assy. There are some 10mm nuts used to fasten some links that fastens the throttle body to other components, the upper could be removed while standing in front of the engine but the lower has to be removed from under the vehicle. Unfortunately I didn't take any picture while doing the job. Once yo bring out the air filter housing, it would be easier to feel the links I'm referring to.

salimshah

rfakinbile:

Did you disconnect the hoses and wires or simply swing the piece out of the way?

Salim

rfakinbile

The only hose removed is that of water hose connected to the throttle body. Wires disconnected are those on the throttle body and IACV. Other hoses were simply by-passed.

thomas1

I removed the bolt on the back of the intake without removing the cowling etc. The bolt is just a plain pain. 10mm I believe and the best tool was a 1/4 inch socket drive. the bolt head is located in a u channel which make the use of a gear wrench impossible.
After I removed it and the bracket, just say i MODIEFIED THE U channel support bracket so that a regular gear wrench could be used. I bassically filed the u down to allow this....The rest just requires lots of patience and time. iN THE attached photo note the bracket and bolt circled in red.....Please not this is not the RX however is the same bracket and in the same location....just to give you an idea of what i AM talking about.