well.... i've done them all ina shop, on a lift with a trans jack and air tools, so my process probably won't apply to many of you guys...
pretty simple, really. unplug/disconnect everything attached to trans. removed air intake, starter and everythign else in teh way from the top.
removed driveshaft, front axles.
removed bellhousing bolts. removed torque conv. bolts.
put trans jack under trans, pry trans off block. lower trans, put aside.
removed flex plate. removed rear main seal. replace rear main seal. reinstall in reverse order. make sure you lube up the seal wehn you put in in and you don't roll the lip of it.

 

230,000 miles and you are having the motor out to do sensors and an oil leak ? how about rings, bearings pistons, cams and a valve job while you are at it....

 

Motor still feels strong!

I would, but I don't really think it needs it yet.

The car still feels like the day I got it.

I would like to get rid of my CEL P0330 Knock Sensor code.
(loss of overdrive)
I will change them out next week.
-I'm sick of the darn oil spot I leave everywhere I go!

I'm on a quest to repair this without major dollars if I can help it.

 

Thank you 19psi.

In dire situation you can hang one of those aluminum baking trays with wires. Tip and drain once in a while.

Salim

 

I think I have the same leak. It's a couple of drops every night from that split. Well, it actually comes off the seal (I think) where the tranny and engine meet. I tightened all the housing bolts as they were a little weak, but didn't slow the leaking or fixed it.

 

Hi Barryst- I did the rear main seal, timing belt, and torque conv. seal on my daughter-in-laws 99RX300. I did not have a lift as I was doing it at home so I tried a different approach. I have a R.V. pad out back to work on so I borrowed a large engine lift, removed the front bumper cover and after having removed everything necessary I lifted the body up with a small (5/16) chain away from the entire drive assembly. (the chain was around both bumper isolators) I left everything together (front sub-frame, suspension, engine & trans. complete). I removed the compressor and tied it back and the brake calipers and tied them back so that I didn't have to deal with recharge or bleed. I then split the trans. from the engine once I had the car about 3.5-4ft. in the air. It is AWD so I didn't have to remove the half shafts or any of the suspension. I did it partly because I didn't have the equipment to suspend the engine while I dropped the rest out the bottom and because it would be easier to do the timing belt with total access to the front of the engine that way. It was really quite easy once I got the assembly rolled out from under the car. I didn't have to remove the hood either. One thing I did have to do was remove the glove box and remove the computer to disconnect the wiring loom to be able to leave it all with the engine. It's a lot different than19psi is able to do it in the shop but I didn't have that option. I am curious 19psi, what do the c/s's look like where the old seal rode? My DIL's car had 97k on it at the time and had been leaking from about 85k and the seal was hard as a rock and had worn a small groove in the c/s. I was really concerned about that but I cleaned it (and the coked on varnish) off, lubed the seal up and hoped for the best. Have not had a sign of a leak since. As hard as the seal was I don't see how the c/s's could keep from grooving. Y/T-Roger

 

yup, the crank snout was definitely grooved a bit, but the new seal is elastic enough to fill it in i guess.