Shocks KYB GR-2
08-07-09, 08:36 PM
#77
Well, that is exactly what we did for the other 3 springs as well.
Each individual spring needs at least 22 inches (yes, I am not kidding you, it does not look that long, when you wind it around it is) to get to the point shown in the preceding photograph.
The width of the hose is about 2 cm or .75 inches. The rear springs can use a slightly smaller width, but I recommend using the same width as the ones up front.
This type of hose can be found at Home Depot, though in downtown Cuajimalpa where we are at, such colored hose is abundant at small hardware stores.
Each individual spring needs at least 22 inches (yes, I am not kidding you, it does not look that long, when you wind it around it is) to get to the point shown in the preceding photograph.
The width of the hose is about 2 cm or .75 inches. The rear springs can use a slightly smaller width, but I recommend using the same width as the ones up front.
This type of hose can be found at Home Depot, though in downtown Cuajimalpa where we are at, such colored hose is abundant at small hardware stores.
08-07-09, 08:41 PM
#78
Lexus Test Driver
The photos from Lexmex make me wonder -- can I attach the spring compressors while the vehicle is sitting normally while the vehicle weight compresses the springs? This would save trying to compress them down after removal of the strut assembly.
08-08-09, 06:55 AM
#79
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
The vehicle weight wouldn't compress the springs enough.
08-08-09, 07:56 AM
#81
I've done a strut job before on my firends 2001 Toyota Highlander. I placed the spring compressor clamps on the spring before the car was jacked up. I didn't have a air pistol and we only had to compress the spring a little more to get the new strut to fit into the spring.
08-08-09, 07:03 PM
#82
Lexus Test Driver
That's what I was thinking -- that the spring is partially compressed under normal load. Not fully compressed, as Lexmex notes. I like Bob220's idea of trying to squeeze the spring additionally by jacking up the opposite corner. Does that work? I appreciate the help, all of you!
08-09-09, 06:33 AM
#83
The first strut we took off we threw the tool on that car wasn't jacked up at all. This was the hardest to compress and took the longest. I thought it would be harder without the air pistol, like a lot harder, but it just took us longer to get the spring compressed. Then on the other sides while we had one side jacked up, we threw the spring compressor tool on and from what I remember it only took another 5 minutes or so to get the spring where we needed it to be.
hope this helps
hope this helps
08-09-09, 06:35 AM
#84
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
I went to go find this hose.....I found somthing similar, but they asked me whether the hose was .75 inches total or was the hose opening .75 inches. They had a bunch of hoses, all marked the same way inside diameter and outside diameter, so I was wondering how you measured it?
I measured from the outside diameter, see below.
I should note that I am slightly squeezing the hose here, so it doesn't quite reach 2 cm or .75 inches, but it's very close.
08-23-09, 03:53 AM
#86
Great write-up and pics! Thanks Lexmex. I do have one question. How did you keep the strut rod from turning when you were removing and reinstalling/torqueing the strut rod retaining bolt? The Repair Manual shows SST 09729-22031 (which I assume no one in the world has except Lexus dealer technicians) which is used to restrain the upper spring seat. That must mean the upper seat is keyed to the strut rod. Thanks for your help.
08-23-09, 06:38 AM
#87
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
Great write-up and pics! Thanks Lexmex. I do have one question. How did you keep the strut rod from turning when you were removing and reinstalling/torqueing the strut rod retaining bolt? The Repair Manual shows SST 09729-22031 (which I assume no one in the world has except Lexus dealer technicians) which is used to restrain the upper spring seat. That must mean the upper seat is keyed to the strut rod. Thanks for your help.
I don't remember from when this was done that this was particularly difficult.
The main reason was that we compressed the springs a lot more than shown in that diagram (we had the book open at the time).
08-25-09, 03:51 AM
#88
Lexmex, your use of plastic tubing for a lower coil spring insulator is elegant to say the least. This is what I plan to do because, as you say, a KYB insulator will be $15 delivered and it won't last as long as the plastic tubing.
I do have one concern though. Toyota engineers are crafty. I wonder why they didn't use insulator tubes? I wonder if the stock insulator serves a purpose in addition to separating the metal coil spring from the metal strut? Or, maybe it is less manufacturing labor to slap on a stock insulator than fish on a plastic tube?
God, why do I spend time worrying about stuff like this???
I do have one concern though. Toyota engineers are crafty. I wonder why they didn't use insulator tubes? I wonder if the stock insulator serves a purpose in addition to separating the metal coil spring from the metal strut? Or, maybe it is less manufacturing labor to slap on a stock insulator than fish on a plastic tube?
God, why do I spend time worrying about stuff like this???
08-25-09, 06:28 AM
#89
Lexus Champion
Lexmex, your use of plastic tubing for a lower coil spring insulator is elegant to say the least. This is what I plan to do because, as you say, a KYB insulator will be $15 delivered and it won't last as long as the plastic tubing.
I do have one concern though. Toyota engineers are crafty. I wonder why they didn't use insulator tubes? I wonder if the stock insulator serves a purpose in addition to separating the metal coil spring from the metal strut? Or, maybe it is less manufacturing labor to slap on a stock insulator than fish on a plastic tube?
God, why do I spend time worrying about stuff like this???
I do have one concern though. Toyota engineers are crafty. I wonder why they didn't use insulator tubes? I wonder if the stock insulator serves a purpose in addition to separating the metal coil spring from the metal strut? Or, maybe it is less manufacturing labor to slap on a stock insulator than fish on a plastic tube?
God, why do I spend time worrying about stuff like this???
08-25-09, 07:09 AM
#90
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
Lexmex, your use of plastic tubing for a lower coil spring insulator is elegant to say the least. This is what I plan to do because, as you say, a KYB insulator will be $15 delivered and it won't last as long as the plastic tubing.
I do have one concern though. Toyota engineers are crafty. I wonder why they didn't use insulator tubes? I wonder if the stock insulator serves a purpose in addition to separating the metal coil spring from the metal strut? Or, maybe it is less manufacturing labor to slap on a stock insulator than fish on a plastic tube?
God, why do I spend time worrying about stuff like this???
I do have one concern though. Toyota engineers are crafty. I wonder why they didn't use insulator tubes? I wonder if the stock insulator serves a purpose in addition to separating the metal coil spring from the metal strut? Or, maybe it is less manufacturing labor to slap on a stock insulator than fish on a plastic tube?
God, why do I spend time worrying about stuff like this???
Keep in mind, that my RX suffered more abuse than many other RXs given its years in Mexico, so it become a laboratory for me and hopefully for Lexus to see what wear and tear can do on a vehicle and hopefully they learned what can happen over time.