ABS problem
Here's my problem, When I apply the brakes I can feel the ABS working creating a clicking noise until the vehicle comes to a full stop. There is no ABS light on the dash showing that there is a problem with the ABS system.
When I take out the fuse for the ABS the problem goes away and braking is fine, except for the ABS light now showing on the dash. This is a 2000 RX 300 with 68000 miles. The brakes are brand new front and rear, I had the problem before i changed the brakes.
My question is, if that ring on the axle is broken would that throw the ABS light on the dash showing some kind of a problem with the system. Same thing with a sensor, wouldn't a bad sensor make that ABS light shine in the dash.
I'm kind of hoping that its a sensor that needs replacing and not that ring on the axle.
Thanks for any ideas of what it may be
When I take out the fuse for the ABS the problem goes away and braking is fine, except for the ABS light now showing on the dash. This is a 2000 RX 300 with 68000 miles. The brakes are brand new front and rear, I had the problem before i changed the brakes.
My question is, if that ring on the axle is broken would that throw the ABS light on the dash showing some kind of a problem with the system. Same thing with a sensor, wouldn't a bad sensor make that ABS light shine in the dash.
I'm kind of hoping that its a sensor that needs replacing and not that ring on the axle.
Thanks for any ideas of what it may be
My understanding is that abs warning is a system malfunction warning. By sytem I mean that it can be be only one cuse or multiple causes for the warning lamp to turn on.
One can be lucky and focus on one area if the light came on after a specific incident. Without that information, you have to have your RX hooked up to diagnostic port. [I think abs is not part of OBDII ... I could be wrong].
You can test brake in an empty parking lot to see if the abs is working by looking at the rubber trail marks. Then you can choose to ignore or reset the light.
Salim
One can be lucky and focus on one area if the light came on after a specific incident. Without that information, you have to have your RX hooked up to diagnostic port. [I think abs is not part of OBDII ... I could be wrong].
You can test brake in an empty parking lot to see if the abs is working by looking at the rubber trail marks. Then you can choose to ignore or reset the light.
Salim
From what I remember of others having this problem in the past, if your ABS activate all the time without any DTCs (diagnostic trouble codes) it is caused by the sensor ring. If you do get DTCs it is usually the sensor. Being that your ABS light does not come on, except when you remove the fuse, it sounds like you do not have any DTCs. The ABS light is to be expected when the fuse is removed and any DTCs at this point would be invalid. I would do a search here here and over at Lexus Owners Club on "ABS sensor" for more info from others who have been here before.
I don't know how far you want to go on your own to try and resolve this. The service manual has a whole procedure for troubleshooting ABS complete with procedures for reading ABS DTCs by hooking up a jumper and counting ABS light flashes, directions for using a meter to check sensors and other checks.
I don't know how far you want to go on your own to try and resolve this. The service manual has a whole procedure for troubleshooting ABS complete with procedures for reading ABS DTCs by hooking up a jumper and counting ABS light flashes, directions for using a meter to check sensors and other checks.
You are in MA, it is wintertime, and you don't mention road conditions, so...
What you describe would be PERFECTLY normal operation if the roadbed is slippery enough (and/or your tires are worn, the road was recently sanded, etc.) that brake application results in the anti-lock system detecting that lock up is impending, a wheel's rotational RATE is slowing rapidly enough that it will soon came to a stop before the vehicle does.
In that case the "clicking" will not stop until the car stops and it will actually become more rapid as the vehicle slows to a full stop.
It may even do this on a dry, high traction roadbed if you are using hard or severe braking.
What you describe would be PERFECTLY normal operation if the roadbed is slippery enough (and/or your tires are worn, the road was recently sanded, etc.) that brake application results in the anti-lock system detecting that lock up is impending, a wheel's rotational RATE is slowing rapidly enough that it will soon came to a stop before the vehicle does.
In that case the "clicking" will not stop until the car stops and it will actually become more rapid as the vehicle slows to a full stop.
It may even do this on a dry, high traction roadbed if you are using hard or severe braking.
I was searching for ABS topic and looked upon this thread. My 2000 RX300 AWD was taken to the snow+icy road last week for the first time. Sometimes when I stepped on the break pedal I could feel pulses on the pedal with some noise from under the hood. Other than that the breaks work fine, on dry, wet and snowy road conditions. No ABS and other warning lights on the dash board.
I used to drive a 1994 Buick Century Station Wagon with FWD, ABS and Traction Control. On snowy days sometimes I could hear ABD working by the nosice from under the hood and flash of the blue "Traction Control" light on the dashboard. But there would be no "push-back pulsing" forces on the break pedal.
So I am wondering if (when ABS is activated) the "machenical pulsing" feeling on the break pedal with the 2000 RX300 AWD is expected, or indication of some problem with the ABS system.
I used to drive a 1994 Buick Century Station Wagon with FWD, ABS and Traction Control. On snowy days sometimes I could hear ABD working by the nosice from under the hood and flash of the blue "Traction Control" light on the dashboard. But there would be no "push-back pulsing" forces on the break pedal.
So I am wondering if (when ABS is activated) the "machenical pulsing" feeling on the break pedal with the 2000 RX300 AWD is expected, or indication of some problem with the ABS system.
normal operation. as for the cracked abs ring, most of the time you will not set a code. rust builds up under the ring causing it to split. this basicly make a larger "gap" between two teeth, so under braking the computer actually sees one tire going a differnent speed, causing the abs to actuate. the computer thinks this is normal.
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