Just put the plastic shroud around the crank pulley and put the crank pulley on the crank shaft and use the big mark on the pulley and line up the pulley shroud marking with the pulley. you can use color pen and mark the line on the belt to help align. I use the phone camera for the firewall cam as it is hard to get my head in proper position. Remember to pull all the slack of the T belt on the tensioner side ... by turning the cram shaft bolt Clockwise. If you turn the bolt CCW the slack can end up on the top and long side.

Salim

 

oh... you right, I move a little CCW, that where is 1/2 of tooth came from.
So, seems this part of ignition, crankshaft and camshaft sensor are OK, BTDC in test mode is in far advance about 20 degree (should be about 10), however in standard mode it is on the edge - about 25 at 850RPM (should be 700 +/-50).
Any idea what check next?
Once broken bolts arrive, will put all back together and will keep going.
I really appreciate all help.
Thank you

 

I would check the valves' clearance and replace any adjusting shims as needed. Because your base timing is advanced and high base idle, check the throttle body and idle air control valve. You might even be able to clean the IAC valve and get the idle speed back to the specs.

 

Thank you!
First need to get broken bolts, while waiting guess will clean up IAC, throttle body is always clean.
​clean. Not sure about valves for now, even I found all information about procedures, measurements, etc, dad won't toch it for now, do you think issue might be there?
Thank you for your help, I really appreciate it!

 

I was sitting several hours teasing AI, and it gave a good idea - use continuous logging, Techstream allow to do that.
Will try it after put all back together. Will see if it help.

 

Still waiting for bolt, should arrive Friday or Monday.

 

For small items, I go to the dealer as they overnight [most of the frequent use items are stocked locally or in a nearby warehouse] and can be picked up same or the next day. They do not charge for shipping.

In any case, do the cost and time analysis every time.

Salim

 

on dealer becomes twice more and waiting about same time... IDK why that long, we just call them.

 

Put all back together.
Was able toa make stable readings of RPM on SKID, seems there is loose connector, tried depin it but it won't go out, others easily but not that one, however temporary it will work that way.
What I catch - yaw keep reading 0 after starting and then right after VSC throw on dash, Techstream register 127 degree on yaw and zero yaw. Yaw was replaced first, when begin troubleshooting, it would be crazy if new sensor was also faulty.
Guess, next time will test yaw sensor and wirings.
Had some time today and test yaw to gyaw, not sure about stable connection but it show 1.5v, per specs should be 2-3v.
Thank you!

 

Today test cables from SKID to YAW - all good.Pool YAW and test by turning- seems it is working until SKID freezes.Open SKID and check capacitors after "legs" (on board) 5 capacitors did not read anything, and one of them on IG1, so I check voltage readings, before capacitor - battery voltage, after - 0.008, when start - around 0.012.Seems some capacitors decided to become a resistors.Ordering another SKID...
btw, what is AST, and maybe someone know other pins on attached picture?will check capacitors prior installation, just in case.Next week will report outcome.Thank you

 

A lengthy thread. I respect your persistence and not giving up.

The replaced parts listed above - are they still in the vehicle? or did you remove them and reinstall the original ones since the replacement ones didn't fix the issue?

Are the replacement parts Toyota Lexus or generic brands such as Doorman, Standard, etc?

 

I'm not 100% sure, but AST = Anti Skid Trac and MT = Motor Trac!

MT terminal feeds direct power thru the resistor to the motor in the second diagram.

 

Thank you.
ECU (used), TPS and acceleration are keep new, other parts put back original, since not working.
If there are good feedbacks for generic, why not. If no good feedbacks - OEM.
And sure, SKID is used, still a chance something burned there.
BTW, I will never use Doorman, had too many issues with it on different cars.
Thank you

 

Thank you.
Somehow I miss your response yesterday.

So, seems those circuits probably would not show errors until activate.
Main one with problem - IG1. I don't think it would be 12v on input if not used.
Suspect it was short somewhere after that capacitor (and diode after - which is working as should ), causing it heats up and becoming resistor.
Will see after receiving another SKID.
I want to test all capacitors before installing SKID, if all good - then install, and if would not work - test after installation, maybe something "killing" capacitors, maybe that way will at least pointing to problematic location.
Thank you

 

I test another SKID today - all completely are same, and outcome is same... sad...
Somehow, for 1st time I got freeze data via Techstream, please see in attached pic.
Also, I read using another scanner - same data as before.
There is different information in freeze data but common huge reading on break fluid pressure.
Couple questions arise - seems it is possible that faulty pressure sensor might be root, since all wires going to SKID, tested and have continuity. And does anyone know how to test and emulate 3pin pressure sensor?